Valve Clearance Check | Page 5 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Valve Clearance Check

Anybody know what type of sealant I need to close things up again and button it up? I just realized I need a new gasket seal so will be ordering one this week prior to buttoning things up again.

Shop manual just states 'new sealant'.
Probably Honda bond?

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Probably Honda bond?

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Manual doesn’t say. I’ll call a dealer tomorrow. Unfortunately the closest one nowadays is far from me.

EDIT: Gasket looks perfect. But probably best to replace it also.

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I'd use high heat silicone on the gasket "lobes" (half circle things) and call it good.

I wouldn't replace it.

Clean it off good.

Keep an eye out for weeping oil. Likely have none.

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I'd use high heat silicone on the gasket "lobes" (half circle things) and call it good.

I wouldn't replace it.
Yep, what he said. There's nothing wrong with the valve cover gasket; no need to replace.

Apply the silicone, just a little bit, to the areas indicated, on each side of the engine (four locations in total). Nowhere else. Wipe off the excess that squishes out after the cover is torqued down.

Use something like this, which you should already have in your tool box:

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Thank you. The manual states to replace the gasket. But the gasket is in (IMO) perfect shape.

No damages/cracks can be seen, and appears to not be dried out when touched as it still is soft rubber.

I assume CT has this gasket sealant?
 
Is Honda recommending to use sealant WITH the OEM rubber gasket for your bike? They didn't for my 88 Hawk or my 2011 CBR125R. Or at least I didn't notice and didn't use, and had no issues.
On the RC51, they call for a full bead of sealant on the top side of the gasket and a bead around the bottom of the semicircles that line up with the cam shafts. The rear cylinder head was easy, as it's fully exposed with the tank off. The front, on the other hand, was a nightmare, as it's wedged at an angle in the steering stem part of the frame, so you need to slide it in with the gasket on the bottom. If it comes off, you risk getting lumps of residual silicone in the valve train, so I had to take a few runs at it to get right...


Thank you. The manual states to replace the gasket. But the gasket is in (IMO) perfect shape.
Any time they have a part that's perishable and can't be measured to check for tolerance, they'll recommend replacement to be safe, especially if it's not too expensive. It's up to you to decide which recommendations can be ignored. In the case of valve cover gaskets, it's unlikely that failure will be catastrophic, and worst case you'll see some oil weeping. If you reuse, just be sure to shine a light on the gasket a few times after your rides to make sure there's no leaks...
 
Remember that the people who wrote the manual are same people who make money if you buy a new gasket.
 
Remember that the people who wrote the manual are same people who make money if you buy a new gasket.

F'n barbers out there...

Don't get your bike safetied at a shop that sells tires.

It's like asking a barber if you need a haircut, they will always tell you you need to buy new tires.

From them...
 
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Thank you. The manual states to replace the gasket. But the gasket is in (IMO) perfect shape.

No damages/cracks can be seen, and appears to not be dried out when touched as it still is soft rubber.

I assume CT has this gasket sealant?
Personally, I'd use a small amount of Pernatex Black or Grey on the tight angle locations and around outside corners.. Permatex Copper will work, but it's really for high temps found on exhaust systems -- it gets quite hard and gluey which makes it hard to separate at the next service, and it tears apart paper gaskets. I prefer Permatex Black on valve and oil covers, grey on everything else on a bike.
 
Personally, I'd use a small amount of Pernatex Black or Grey on the tight angle locations and around outside corners.. Permatex Copper will work, but it's really for high temps found on exhaust systems -- it gets quite hard and gluey which makes it hard to separate at the next service, and it tears apart paper gaskets. I prefer Permatex Black on valve and oil covers, grey on everything else on a bike.
Back to CT I guess. Already got the high temp one lol.
 
Soooo, the most important thing here is to walk those cam caps down evenly and with super light pressure. If it breaks you’re fcuked, so don’t break it lol. They can get hung up on a dowel pin and crack if you’re being reckless. Obv make sure your timing is correct too. Hot cams makes a shim kit.

You’ll have to sync throttle bodies after you’re done too, so you’ll need that
 
Good point. I've got a mercury carb board if you need to borrow it MP. You can't pick it up on the bike, it has to stay vertical.
Are you he's not rocking a cool sissy bar to strap it to??
 
Are you he's not rocking a cool sissy bar to strap it to??
I've never seen a sissy bar on a 500x. There is a first time for everything though. Dont crash on the way home. I can only imagine the environmental cleanup fee if you scatter mercury over a few thousand sq ft.

An old university professor had gallons of mercury in his shed. I tried to get some from him but was unsuccessful. All I have is the few oz in the carb board.
 
Soooo, the most important thing here is to walk those cam caps down evenly and with super light pressure. If it breaks you’re fcuked, so don’t break it lol. They can get hung up on a dowel pin and crack if you’re being reckless. Obv make sure your timing is correct too.

Not necessary on this bike. The cams aren't removed in order to change shims.
 

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