Valve Clearance Check | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Valve Clearance Check

GreyGhost

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Don't forget some blue thread locker and assembly lube and brake parts cleaner and RTV.....paint marker

Valve check is easy...adjustment is much more complicated and sensitive process compared to chain/sprocket change.
The clearance dimension, you will have to feet.

But you have a good skill set, you will do well !

Just take your time; make sure everything is clean and double and triple check.
Manually check your timing a few times if you have removed your cams.
Good to see you pop by FG.

MP, if you pull the cams, I would pull the plugs to make it easier to turn the engine over. That also removes compression resistance so you can more easily feel if there is mechanical resistance. Put a piece of bunched up paper towel in the plug hole so nothing can fall in but air can move easily.
 

frekeyguy

Well-known member
Good to see you pop by FG.

MP, if you pull the cams, I would pull the plugs to make it easier to turn the engine over. That also removes compression resistance so you can more easily feel if there is mechanical resistance. Put a piece of bunched up paper towel in the plug hole so nothing can fall in but air can move easily.
Didn't think to post about pulling plugs, (basic thing to do). Good time to read the plugs.
Best to pull the plugs to get the motor to TDC... if cams have to be pulled.
Makes life much easier with plugs pulled.
 

boyoboy

Well-known member
I can't seem to find a straight answer to this (I assume easy) question...do I need to drain my tank in order to perform the valve clearance check?

Weather is still nice this week so I'd like to top it up but not if I need to drain it later.

remove tank, no need to drain, but less fuel would be better

rad/coolant may need to be removed - sometimes you can just loosen the rad and pull it forward out of the way - w/o draining
 

mimico_polak

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Thanks guys.

@frekeyguy thanks! The main reason for the work is to replace the plugs and it seems it’s best to do this work simultaneously.

I’m hoping not to have to call you in an emergency even though it’s always a good chat!
 

timtune

Well-known member
I am often willing to spend more time and remove items that arn't in the way but allow you more room to maneuver once they're off. Time well spent if the job is less cumbersome.
 

GreyGhost

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I am often willing to spend more time and remove items that arn't in the way but allow you more room to maneuver once they're off. Time well spent if the job is less cumbersome.
I miss valve checks on my old nighthawk. You could wiggle the cover out without removing anything and they were screw adjust so you could play around with different settings. The only time it went wrong, I threw it back together quickly and then went for a ride. My leg felt funny and I looked down and it was drenched with warm oil. Gasket had slid over a bit and wasnt sealing and it was pissing all over my right leg. Rode home carefully, reset gasket, topped up oil, cleaned off bike and rear tire and it was good to go again.
 

mimico_polak

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Picked up some brake cleaner and feeler gauges yesterday. Couldn't find the magnetic pick up as it was sold out so I need to go elsewhere before I start taking this thing apart.

Oh and most importantly...need a clear table to actually put all the things into as I take them out. Have a table...need to clear it.
 

mimico_polak

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So I got my hands on this beautiful lift thanks to an awesome GTAMer but my only concern is that when I try to lower to lift...it just slams down and I'm having trouble figuring out how to control it. Has fresh oil inside of it...but am I doing something wrong? Or is that normal?


I was expecting a gradual lowering.

I'm also going to drill some holes in it to put in eye bolts and be able to strap the bike down.
 

GreyGhost

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So I got my hands on this beautiful lift thanks to an awesome GTAMer but my only concern is that when I try to lower to lift...it just slams down and I'm having trouble figuring out how to control it. Has fresh oil inside of it...but am I doing something wrong? Or is that normal?


I was expecting a gradual lowering.

I'm also going to drill some holes in it to put in eye bolts and be able to strap the bike down.
Slamming down seems wrong (and dangerous). Did you bleed it (see video review on PA site)?
 

mimico_polak

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Slamming down seems wrong (and dangerous). Did you bleed it (see video review on PA site)?
Oh if you're bent over under it I'm sure it could kill you. I'll see about bleeding it maybe that is the issue. I'm not overly familiar with hydraulics but will give a few things a look. I won't lift my bike up on it until I get that straightened out. I'll park on it simply for space in the garage, and don't need to lift it for the valve work.
 

Wingboy

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There are 2 ports on the cylinder. The one with the red cap is the dft.( Don't f'n touch) the one with slot is to adjust the speed. Loosen for fast, tighten for slow.
Bleed it with the lift all the way down. Pump it with the release pedal depressed. AW32 oil.
Be very careful. I don't know what I'm talking about.
 

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GreyGhost

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There are 2 ports on the cylinder. The one with the red cap is the dft.( Don't f'n touch) the one with slot is to adjust the speed. Loosen for fast, tighten for slow.
Bleed it with the lift all the way down. Pump it with the release pedal depressed. AW32 oil.
Be very careful. I don't know what I'm talking about.
Haha. Video posted by a buyer on PA site says remove the red to bleed. I like your approach better if it works. If the one on the left needs a speed adjustment, it makes me wonder how that happened (maybe the fresh oil is thinner?)
 

Wingboy

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Haha. Video posted by a buyer on PA site says remove the red to bleed. I like your approach better if it works. If the one on the left needs a speed adjustment, it makes me wonder how that happened (maybe the fresh oil is thinner?)
Just air in it. They are shipped from China upside down with the rubber fill plug at the bottom. Bleed it before you touch anything. The adj screw is VERY sensitive.
 

Relax

Well-known member
So I got my hands on this beautiful lift thanks to an awesome GTAMer but my only concern is that when I try to lower to lift...it just slams down and I'm having trouble figuring out how to control it. Has fresh oil inside of it...but am I doing something wrong? Or is that normal?


I was expecting a gradual lowering.

I'm also going to drill some holes in it to put in eye bolts and be able to strap the bike down.

When in doubt, consult Manuel:


8.1 Tighten the speed control valve on the hydraulic pump (N) clockwise to slow the descent speed. Turn the valve counterclockwise to increase the descent speed.

But as @Wingboy mentioned, you probably want to bleed it first, then adjust speed with nothing on it, then double check with something heavy but not valuable on it.
 

mimico_polak

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When in doubt, consult Manuel:


8.1 Tighten the speed control valve on the hydraulic pump (N) clockwise to slow the descent speed. Turn the valve counterclockwise to increase the descent speed.

But as @Wingboy mentioned, you probably want to bleed it first, then adjust speed with nothing on it, then double check with something heavy but not valuable on it.
Was literally reading that during my meeting! GTAM saves the day again!
 

timtune

Well-known member
I have the same one. Never added oil. Never bled it. Pumps up fine but goes down slowly when the pedal is depressed (cheer up pedal). And sometimes I need to work the pedal a few times to get it all the way down.

Guess I should watch the video.
 

Mad Mike

Well-known member
So I got my hands on this beautiful lift thanks to an awesome GTAMer but my only concern is that when I try to lower to lift...it just slams down and I'm having trouble figuring out how to control it. Has fresh oil inside of it...but am I doing something wrong? Or is that normal?


I was expecting a gradual lowering.

I'm also going to drill some holes in it to put in eye bolts and be able to strap the bike down.
Try a couple of things:

1) Raise and lower a couple of times, sometimes air gets trapped in the hydraulic circuit.
2) If I recall, those lifts have a adjustment valve on the hydraulic ram right beside the oil fill cap. There might be a cap on it, flip off the cap and there is an adjustment for the release valve. Be careful lowering the thing with your hands/arms under the platform -- a lot of scissor action in there.
3) I'll bet the guy who changed the oil didn't check the 2 little o-rings on the fill cap. These are known to fail on the PA rams and can cause problems with the up and down.
 

frekeyguy

Well-known member
Thanks guys.

@frekeyguy thanks! The main reason for the work is to replace the plugs and it seems it’s best to do this work simultaneously.

I’m hoping not to have to call you in an emergency even though it’s always a good chat!
Im waiting for the lemon limoncello
 

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