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Valve Clearance Check
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Manual doesn’t say. I’ll call a dealer tomorrow. Unfortunately the closest one nowadays is far from me.
EDIT: Gasket looks perfect. But probably best to replace it also.
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Yep, what he said.
There's nothing wrong with the valve cover gasket; no need to replace. Apply the silicone, just a little bit, to the areas indicated, on each side of the engine (four locations in total). Nowhere else. Wipe off the excess that squishes out after the cover is torqued down.
Use something like this, which you should already have in your tool box:
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Thank you. The manual states to replace the gasket. But the gasket is in (IMO) perfect shape.
No damages/cracks can be seen, and appears to not be dried out when touched as it still is soft rubber.
I assume CT has this gasket sealant?
No damages/cracks can be seen, and appears to not be dried out when touched as it still is soft rubber.
I assume CT has this gasket sealant?
POWERMAN
Well-known member
Didnt know they had all these variants either...
www.canadiantire.ca
general-bplp-template
www.canadiantire.ca
Priller
Well-known member
On the RC51, they call for a full bead of sealant on the top side of the gasket and a bead around the bottom of the semicircles that line up with the cam shafts. The rear cylinder head was easy, as it's fully exposed with the tank off. The front, on the other hand, was a nightmare, as it's wedged at an angle in the steering stem part of the frame, so you need to slide it in with the gasket on the bottom. If it comes off, you risk getting lumps of residual silicone in the valve train, so I had to take a few runs at it to get right...
Any time they have a part that's perishable and can't be measured to check for tolerance, they'll recommend replacement to be safe, especially if it's not too expensive. It's up to you to decide which recommendations can be ignored. In the case of valve cover gaskets, it's unlikely that failure will be catastrophic, and worst case you'll see some oil weeping. If you reuse, just be sure to shine a light on the gasket a few times after your rides to make sure there's no leaks...
Relax
Well-known member
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Mad Mike
Well-known member
Personally, I'd use a small amount of Pernatex Black or Grey on the tight angle locations and around outside corners.. Permatex Copper will work, but it's really for high temps found on exhaust systems -- it gets quite hard and gluey which makes it hard to separate at the next service, and it tears apart paper gaskets. I prefer Permatex Black on valve and oil covers, grey on everything else on a bike.
Back to CT I guess. Already got the high temp one lol.
I've never had any difficulty with Permatex Copper in an application like this. Easily removed at the next service. Been using it for years.
YMMV.
phil_si
Well-known member
Soooo, the most important thing here is to walk those cam caps down evenly and with super light pressure. If it breaks you’re fcuked, so don’t break it lol. They can get hung up on a dowel pin and crack if you’re being reckless. Obv make sure your timing is correct too. Hot cams makes a shim kit.
You’ll have to sync throttle bodies after you’re done too, so you’ll need that
You’ll have to sync throttle bodies after you’re done too, so you’ll need that
Good point. I've got a mercury carb board if you need to borrow it MP. You can't pick it up on the bike, it has to stay vertical.
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Are you he's not rocking a cool sissy bar to strap it to??
I've never seen a sissy bar on a 500x. There is a first time for everything though. Dont crash on the way home. I can only imagine the environmental cleanup fee if you scatter mercury over a few thousand sq ft.
An old university professor had gallons of mercury in his shed. I tried to get some from him but was unsuccessful. All I have is the few oz in the carb board.
Not necessary on this bike. The cams aren't removed in order to change shims.
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