Valve Clearance Check | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Valve Clearance Check

frekeyguy

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Picked up some brake cleaner and feeler gauges yesterday. Couldn't find the magnetic pick up as it was sold out so I need to go elsewhere before I start taking this thing apart.

Oh and most importantly...need a clear table to actually put all the things into as I take them out. Have a table...need to clear it.
make sure to check the feeler gauges with a mic. some mine were a few micron off
 

mimico_polak

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make sure to check the feeler gauges with a mic. some mine were a few micron off
Now I’m worried…I’ve got the CT ones…
 

GreyGhost

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Now I’m worried…I’ve got the CT ones…
You don't need to be worried, you just need the data. If your one labeled .004 is .005 and your one labeled .005 is .006, now you know. Just use one label higher (assuming you trust the mic more than the feeler gauge).
 

mimico_polak

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Just preparing an order at FN for the spark plugs, brake fluid, and new oil filter.

Anyone recommend something for the brake bleeder kit? Is it needed? Figure while I'm working on the bike may as well do a few things at the same time.
 

GreyGhost

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Just preparing an order at FN for the spark plugs, brake fluid, and new oil filter.

Anyone recommend something for the brake bleeder kit? Is it needed? Figure while I'm working on the bike may as well do a few things at the same time.
I have a pressure bleeder you can borrow if you want. It works well on round reservoirs, not well on rectangles.
 

mimico_polak

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ReSTored

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Anyone recommend something for the brake bleeder kit? Is it needed? Figure while I'm working on the bike may as well do a few things at the same time.

If you are changing out fluid I would use Speed Bleeders. You'll probably need 3 of them assuming you have 3 bleed points (at the calipers) in your system, your shop manual will tell you. Quick, simple to use, 5 minutes per bleed.
 

mimico_polak

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NGK CPR8EA-9 is correct.
Perfect thanks! I'll order them tomorrow. I hate the $50 for free shipping...need something for $20 or so. Maybe some brake fluid.

Was testing the lift today with @shanekingsley and we heard the dreaded leaking of hydraulic fluid from the lift cylinder. Looked like it was coming out from the back so may have been what @Mad Mike was referencing in post #38 with the leaking seals.

Will figure it out.
 

mimico_polak

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Don't forget some blue thread locker and assembly lube and brake parts cleaner and RTV.....paint marker

Valve check is easy...adjustment is much more complicated and sensitive process compared to chain/sprocket change.
The clearance dimension, you will have to feet.

But you have a good skill set, you will do well !

Just take your time; make sure everything is clean and double and triple check.
Manually check your timing a few times if you have removed your cams.
So I'm into the valves now and ready to take measurements later tonight....can you explain / confirm the statement in bold?

Where to apply? how much? brand? etc.
 

GreyGhost

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So I'm into the valves now and ready to take measurements later tonight....can you explain / confirm the statement in bold?

Where to apply? how much? brand? etc.
I will leave threadlocker and RTV to others that know your bike. Brake cleaner for parts that come out, assembly lube on rotating/sliding surfaces as parts go back in to protect them while oil pressure builds.

Paint marker never hurts and can save you heartache. Mark the cam gear, chain, etc in case they move so you can easily get back to current orientation. Mark front and rear camshafts if you will have both out at the same time, etc.
 

Wingboy

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Does Honda specify valve clearances and "working" clearances?
 

Brian P

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Every motorcycle shop manual that I have run across, specifies valve clearances with the engine cold.

You're never going to remove all of the necessary parts to get to the valve clearances with the engine hot on that bike.
 

mimico_polak

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Does Honda specify valve clearances and "working" clearances?
Just the clearances cold as I understand it.

Exhaust 0.27 +-0.03 mm (0.011 +-0.001 in)

Intake 0.16 +-0.03 mm (0.006 +-0.001 in)

Son of a *****…

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Wingboy

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If your notes are the measurements from your 500, looks like you are good to go.
 

mimico_polak

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If your notes are the measurements from your 500, looks like you are good to go.
They are. The intake valves (3&4) are tight by .001”

I understand the minimum of .005” but they’re at .004”.
 

Wingboy

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They are. The intake valves (3&4) are tight by .001”

I understand the minimum of .005” but they’re at .004”.
I would ride it like that. But it took a lot of work to get you where you are. Change them if it makes you feel better.
Loose is ok.
Tight is bad.
 

mimico_polak

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I would ride it like that. But it took a lot of work to get you where you are. Change them if it makes you feel better.
Loose is ok.
Tight is bad.
Personally I’d rather ride it as is because I’m not sure I have the skill set to go much further. Plus need to grab shims. I covered up the internals to keep any dust from going in so have time for some more research.

Although I did notice a discolouration on one valve. The black edges were worn down to a diff colour underneath.
 

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