Hello all. When buying a bike privately is there an unwritten rule on who should pay for the safety of the bike? Is it the responsibility of the buyer or seller? Thanks in advance!
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Who pays for the safety/certification
- Thread starter Jaybee43
- Start date
It is whatever you and the seller decide. I usually charge 200 to 300 to get a safety to cover my time and anything I may have to fix I wasn't aware of.
Sent from my Chesterfield using my thumbs
No unwritten rule. Some sellers will to make the sale go faster, but are under no obligation to. Sometimes when they do they will add on $100 for their time and effort to do it.
I have done the safety for buyers before, if I knew the bike would sell quick. Last thing I want to do though is get it done and the bike doesn't sell in the 36 days and then I just wasted my time and money.
I have done the safety for buyers before, if I knew the bike would sell quick. Last thing I want to do though is get it done and the bike doesn't sell in the 36 days and then I just wasted my time and money.
The buyer. Who told you it was the seller? Even in used car lots when they offer the safety themselves it's a $500 standard price they tell you to pay. I remember one time this car salesman telling me there was nothing wrong with the used car I was buying, that it would pass the safety with no issues. I then asked if they offered it. He said yes. I told him to do it for me. He asked for $500 (just like the other car lots). I asked him why so much, he said if they have to change the brakes or things they will be losing. Then I told him why he lied to me 5 mins earlier that the car will pass with flying colors.
I got a friend who is a car mechanic and I take my vehicles to him. I can't trust any other mechanic, they are not there to pass your car, they are there to make money. Even if you don't need brakes they will tell you need brakes at back and front, there goes $600 dollars. My friend is the only one that is trustworthy, and when he tells me I need brakes it's because I really need brakes. In the case of motorcycles I take it to Rosey Teds, but because he is in the business of selling used tired he will surely make you buy one from him even if the one he is selling is as worn as the one you already have.
As ha been said it's a point of negotiation between the seller and the buyer. There is no requirement to sell certified.
Depending what you're shopping for there may be little room for negotiating a safety, especially this year. When I sold my 690 enduro last year I had a guy ask if I would certify it. I said I would take it to the shop if he paid for it but I wouldn't include it in the sale price. I had several other guys waiting so I didn't need to reduce the price or do anything extra. The guy didn't take it, but the next guy bought it.
TK4
Well-known member
I sold 2 bikes this year, one with safety and UVIP, one without. Both purchasers were satisfied with the arrangement. I factored in $200 difference for the hassle on my part. Your results (of course) may vary.
Side note: I've seen bikes that Ted has 'safetied', I don't trust him. Just my opinion.
Side note: I've seen bikes that Ted has 'safetied', I don't trust him. Just my opinion.
When you safetied your bike for the seller, didn't the shop write down YOUR name on the safety paper? How does the buyer get away with using a safety with someone else's name at the Ministry?
Ted Rosey is the guy to go if you don't want someone ripping you off by telling you that you need a thousand things on your bike that you really don't need. He is also quick. Quick and prompt is what I want.
I normally certify the bike I am selling. I have a mechanic that I always deal with, which makes it easy for me.
I usually list the bike as "certified at this price" If the guy wants to negotiate below my asking price, I will say $$ but you certify.
The main reason I want to certify it, it makes it easy for the buyer the "get it out of my name"
We have all sold bikes and weeks or months later the buyer still has not changed the ownership.
I usually list the bike as "certified at this price" If the guy wants to negotiate below my asking price, I will say $$ but you certify.
The main reason I want to certify it, it makes it easy for the buyer the "get it out of my name"
We have all sold bikes and weeks or months later the buyer still has not changed the ownership.
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The reason you did the safety is because you are selling it. He takes the safety to the ministry to transfer it in his name. If he has no safety it must be registered as an "unfit vehicle"
TK4
Well-known member
There is no name on the safety, just the work order number, inspection station name and number, mechanic's name and number . I guess you haven't had anything safetied in the last few decades ?
I've seen Ted's work - safeties written sight unseen, written off-site (not allowed by the MOT), bikes missing chainguards, chains falling off, tail lamps held together with packing tape, steering head bearings falling out. He's also had his ticket pulled at least twice to my knowledge for writing dirty safeties.
I don't trust him any farther than I can pick him up and throw him. Your results and opinion, of course may vary.
Good/fast/cheap - pick 2 because you won't get all 3....
Thanks for all your feedback much appreciated! I guess I should have asked the following question before. If the 2 parties agree on the buyer certifying the bike how is the buyer supposed to get the bike to the shop? Because the safety is needed to register and plate the bike right?
Nope. Can go either way though.
Sometimes when the seller provides it themselves, it is done by a guy they know or a shady shop. Last bike I bought with a safety, should never have passed a safety (low beam was not connected)
Trip permit, assuming the previous owner had it plated. https://www.ontario.ca/page/temporary-licence-plate-sticker
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TK4
Well-known member
Get it towed, or rent/borrow a trailer and DIY.
You can also get a temporary "T" transit plate which is good (I think) for 10 days, but you have to have insurance.
You would have to figure out how to get the bike there. Could trailer it or put in in the back of a pickup truck. Some have used CAA. The previous owner could ride it there if still plated and insured. Lots of different ways.
IIRC the safety is not needed to register the bike, but it will be to have it plated.
IIRC the safety is not needed to register the bike, but it will be to have it plated.
racerschool
Active member
There is no requirement for the seller to provide a safety. Some do, and that may factor into how easy they sell the bike and/or the price they end up getting. This is something you can negotiate with the seller.
While it may help the seller with the sale. If I had two people offer me the same price for my bike and one was willing to take it unsafetied that would be the buyer I would take. Or would ask for a fair more to go and get a safety and potentially have to deal with issues that come up.
While it may help the seller with the sale. If I had two people offer me the same price for my bike and one was willing to take it unsafetied that would be the buyer I would take. Or would ask for a fair more to go and get a safety and potentially have to deal with issues that come up.
OK, listen, The OP sounds like this is his first motorcycle buy.
Here's what he need to know.
If you, {as a beginner} go to buy a motorcycle that has been certified, you can rest assured that the bike should be road worthy and safe to ride.
[unless it's Roey Toes. Don't get me wrong, I've certified many bike, but never with Rosey Toes. As much as I love Ted. Certifications are dicey]
If the seller refuses to certify the bike, it's a huge red flag. There might underlying issues that you as a beginner do not or cannot see for yourself.
You could buy the bike for top dollar believing the seller that it will pass.
When you bring it into get it certified, most shops will specify some thing that needs to be done before papers are signed.
This could cost you thousands of dollars, depending on what they find. This could also only cost you a few hundred dollars.
If you have to bring it in for certification, this time of year, you will be in for a long wait because most shops are busy getting hundreds of bikes ready for spring.
As a beginner, I would advise only buying a certified bike.
If something goes wrong, you have a legal right to sue the certifying mechanic.
Here's what he need to know.
If you, {as a beginner} go to buy a motorcycle that has been certified, you can rest assured that the bike should be road worthy and safe to ride.
[unless it's Roey Toes. Don't get me wrong, I've certified many bike, but never with Rosey Toes. As much as I love Ted. Certifications are dicey]
If the seller refuses to certify the bike, it's a huge red flag. There might underlying issues that you as a beginner do not or cannot see for yourself.
You could buy the bike for top dollar believing the seller that it will pass.
When you bring it into get it certified, most shops will specify some thing that needs to be done before papers are signed.
This could cost you thousands of dollars, depending on what they find. This could also only cost you a few hundred dollars.
If you have to bring it in for certification, this time of year, you will be in for a long wait because most shops are busy getting hundreds of bikes ready for spring.
As a beginner, I would advise only buying a certified bike.
If something goes wrong, you have a legal right to sue the certifying mechanic.
GVH
Well-known member
A safety is in a sense a 36 day warrant. Who ever pays for the safety ( names on the receipt ) is responsible for unforeseen or known problems that pop up if you got the Stevie Wonder special. I will not pay if I don’t know the shop or especially if the buyer turns out to be a total dickhead. I sell all my bikes certified for a set price or as is if one dollar less. I just sold my 2007 sv650s as is delivered to teds For the buyer. Told him it needed a new front tire Maybe both by age. His choice.
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