Good call on the smoke detectors.
I'll have a chat with my electrician for best recommendations / steps forward.
Right now finalizing the mini-ex rental. I'll let you know when so if you're bored you can join the fun as it's not too far.
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
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I'll have a chat with my electrician for best recommendations / steps forward.
Right now finalizing the mini-ex rental. I'll let you know when so if you're bored you can join the fun as it's not too far.
Lights and outlets on the same 15A circuit are fine and it is the way I do it. I like one breaker per room(s), easier to run wires. There is a counter thought/point that if you trip a breaker at night you lose the light in that room, so some people separate them.
You don't need to go crazy on outlets and being a retrofit they let some stuff slide (inspector dependant), if no where along a wall is more than 6' from an out let that is good code wise and generally use wise. Keep in mind opening walls can change requirements....
One catch, if there should be an outlet there by code AND there was one before OR you opened up the wall you need one. As an example, I have a very small counter beside my sink in the kitchen and the final guy was getting snotty about me not having an outlet there BUT I didn't open up the wall there and he did not notice that the old one was gone... so I passed.
You don't need to go crazy on outlets and being a retrofit they let some stuff slide (inspector dependant), if no where along a wall is more than 6' from an out let that is good code wise and generally use wise. Keep in mind opening walls can change requirements....
One catch, if there should be an outlet there by code AND there was one before OR you opened up the wall you need one. As an example, I have a very small counter beside my sink in the kitchen and the final guy was getting snotty about me not having an outlet there BUT I didn't open up the wall there and he did not notice that the old one was gone... so I passed.
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Does everything need to be acfi now as well.
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For an entire house rewire (or new home), AFAIK yes with some exceptions--at least in the last code. Those exceptions were (are?) smoke alarms, fridge, furnace/boiler and 240v circuits like stove, dryer EV. Lots of people don't like them including some "pros" but in general, use good quality devices, device connections under tight screws and not backstabbed, quality breakers = no nuisance trip issues.
My current house was rewired under the previous-previous... code that only needed them in the bedrooms (I pulled the permit/notification a few weeks before the new one requiring them came in to place, on purpose). I ended up doing them everywhere anyways with the above noted exceptions. Cost me maybe $1.2K more in breakers but what is that against family safety... No nuisance trips, not my 120v welder, not my 120v power tools--even the ancient ones.
The only trip, was legit, a damaged cable...
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Pl
When I do Reno’s, I plumb in a toilet temporarily. 2 bolts take it in and out, get a sponge rubber seal as it can be reused (wax when you’re done).
I’ll say it out loud , the advice in here is often worth money . It’s local knowledge not Internet crap where the building code in Nebraska is different than here . Some of you are actual tradesmen that share knowledge and occasionally skills .I appreciate what I often read here .
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He has a basement with a cleanout port in the stack and space in front. It wouldn't be too hard to put a temporary toilet on a platform that dumps into the cleanout port. Is it to code? Hell no. Does it work? Yup.
We always get our money's worth, every penny.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
That’s plumbing code code compliant. A toilet can be considered a cleanout.
Building code likes platform to the ceiling min 80”.
Ever consider a basement 3 pc? Roughing in a toilet is easy work.
My biggest issue with the basement is that it's about 78" without any floor/ceiling so meeting the 80" minimum is very difficult.
And unless I go lift it up, or get a variance to the code then it's a non starter...of course there's also the non-code version of the work that can be done.
EDIT:
Red - where the drain is for the entire cottage
Green - where I would plan on putting a bathroom if we ever got to that stage in the basement
Blue - where some idiot (not my dad...I asked) decided to install a horizontal line for drain from bathroom to the sanitary sewer
If I ever do build up the basement...I'll need to figure out a way to deal with that blue rectangle as the line is literally at mid-height in the basement. Either put it up higher, or dig into the concrete and build it like it should have been done 20+ years ago.
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This is the main reason that I always ask here first because I trust the knowledge held here much more than Reddit or other sites.
On another note...how hard is it to assemble / mount IKEA kitchen cabinets? MP Contracting has a nice gig to install and while I'm confident in my abilities, I'd rather be 100% sure before I quote and start on the job.
I've done HD cabinets but not ikea cabs. No issues. For cabinets I like French cleats (either wood or metal). Separates the brain work from the muscle work and makes it easy to do solo.
The ones I'm looking at from IKEA use the metal cleat system.
Hardest part will be finding the studs and ensuring the stud finder is a good quality one.
I like the Franklin Prosensors (the horizontal ones with a dozen or more led's not the vertical ones that look like typical studfinders). They give you a nice visual representation, are durable and don't cost too much.
I’ve done two IKEA kitchens , first one took a while but once your into Swedish think , the boxes go together very quickly . The metal cleat system is very good , get a laser level on a tripod and make life simple . I like them so much I’d put one in almost any house .
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