Buy a new one there was only one guy in Ontario that fixed jacks he packed up shop a few years ago.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I rebuilt my 2ton, and another in a motorcycle lift (same concept). I took them apart then took the seals to Cummins Hydraulics in Newmarket. They fixed me up with the seals and o-rings, if I recall $30 or less.
Not sure if I’d bother with a 1.5 ton, that’s a really small jack. You can buy a new 2ton off the jungle website for $60.
I’d go at least 3 ton for suv or pickup work. If you have a compressor, you can get a 5 ton airbag jack for $150. I’d like one of those, light, fast and easy.
Costco has a longer satisfaction guaranteed policy then the jungle monkeys.
I'll get one from Costco and take this busted one to the scrap.
I don't use jacks often enough to justify the airbag jack. Not for the cost, but for the unjustified need.
Last edited:
Nice! My BT speaker from Costco just died after 5 years….should I bother trying to return it….
Relax
Well-known member
I have a 30-year-old 3T jack from Canadian Tire that occasionally does that. No leaks that I noticed, so all I do is jack it up all the way to the top and keep pumping a bunch more times. This bleeds the air out of it and stops it from sinking under its own weight. The alternative air bleeding procedure I've seen is to open the oil fill or bleed screw if there is one and pump the handle until there are no more bubbles. If none of those simple procedures work, double check if it's low on oil since you mentioned the leaking. Lastly, if you have nothing to lose and decide to disassemble down tot he seals, take the old ones to D&D ( Google Maps ) - they've usually been able to match any o-ring I've brought in, but they've mostly been standard sizes. I know a lot of people claim the seals on these cheap jacks aren't standard, but if you think about it, nobody building these are going to custom manufacture a single (never mind set) of o-rings just so they can't be repaired.
Last edited:
I think this is where the leak is coming from.
Looks like the oil has started to turn into grease.
I will attempt the extra pump or bleed method.
I agree that it would be strange to have some really unique sized seals in these. Why would any manufacturer want to do that when off the shelf stuff is much easier to get and most likely cheaper.
It may not be intentionally unique, it may just be using up oddball stuff. If you can get a container of seals that are a weird size (either intentionally or through a manufacturing screwup), it's easy enough to machine the parts to take them. As long as the parts fit together on day one, they are happy. Repairability or interchangeable parts don't matter.
Looks like the "retracting under its own weight" as a dumb oversight on my part. Just went out to test it and the release was a little loose.
Tightnened it back up and stood on the jack and it held me up.
I will do another test by trying to jack my car up and see if it will do it and how long it will hold it.
Tightnened it back up and stood on the jack and it held me up.
I will do another test by trying to jack my car up and see if it will do it and how long it will hold it.
Last edited:
I’ve been working away at cleaning my ride and getting to know it better. Rear sprocket and chain looked decent, so I gave it a through clean and lube. The polished drive sprocket cover looked great but, wondered how the sprocket itself looked. I don’t know when the last time it was done but, man was it a mess! The sprocket is in good shape but, the caked grime was a chore to clean up.
So the chain maintenance job became a whole other job but, there is something satisfying about doing it.
Cleaners and brushes and exposing the surfaces to be free of crap that had accumulated over time.
I’m sure the ride is quicker now and didn’t need to add stickers to achieve it.
So the chain maintenance job became a whole other job but, there is something satisfying about doing it.
Cleaners and brushes and exposing the surfaces to be free of crap that had accumulated over time.
I’m sure the ride is quicker now and didn’t need to add stickers to achieve it.
Last edited:
I’ve been working away at cleaning my ride and getting to know it better. Rear sprocket and chain looked decent, so I gave it a thorough clean and lube. The polished drive sprocket cover looked great but, wondered how the sprocket itself looked. I don’t know the last time it was done but, man was it a mess! The sprocket is in good shape but, the caked grime was a chore to clean up.
So the chain maintenance job became a whole other job but, there is something satisfying about doing it.
Cleaners and brushes and exposing the surfaces to be free of crap that had accumulated over time.
I’m sure the ride is quicker now and didn’t need to add stickers to achieve it.
So the chain maintenance job became a whole other job but, there is something satisfying about doing it.
Cleaners and brushes and exposing the surfaces to be free of crap that had accumulated over time.
I’m sure the ride is quicker now and didn’t need to add stickers to achieve it.
Last edited:
@mimico_polak: On sale at Crappy Tire, $19.99, June 4-11. I couldn't find them in the online flyers, but here's the print flyer:
Perfect for all those CT mini tools!
You would be surprised at the weird and wonderful seals in the cheap jack.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Rebuilt the hydrostat on my riding mower put the tow valves in backwards the first time works like new the second time. Cheated and stood the mower up on end as I didn't want to remove the transmission.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Nice. Was there a kit for that? I changed the fluid on the one in my E180 JD but it still doesn't like hills. Google-foo recommends a guy on ebay to send them to but if I can do it myself I will.Rebuilt the hydrostat on my riding mower put the tow valves in backwards the first time works like new the second time. Cheated and stood the mower up on end as I didn't want to remove the transmission.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
It could be the gear in the back is worn. If I recall the teeth are plastic and when they get worn friction can only go so far, eventually on the flat will not work either.
No kit the piston valve blocks and plates were grooved. I had to lap both barrels and plates. You can do it yourself with fine emery paper lubricated with varsol on a granite slab. Make sure you get them perfect or they will fail again quickly.I probably should have changed the seals but they weren't leaking and still aren't. Yours is probably the same this one was weak when warmed up. The biggest challenge is keeping parts from falling out and getting everything realigned. Would be easier on a bench but was way quicker in the tractor. This one is a tuff torque k61a. Refilled with tdh fluid seems perfect now.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Amazon has metal differential gears and a filter as well.might as well get a set if you are into the transmission.
Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
Thanks. Mine's a K46 so I'll likely pull it apart again in the Fall if it makes it through the Summer and see what's in there that looks in need of replacement. Good to see someone else has serviced theirs with success.
No help from JD on it as it's labelled as a sealed unit but some light digging shows many people including me can easily do a drain and fill with a better (synthetic) fluid to make it last longer but not much info on actually repairing them.
