Any reason for breaker bars over impact gun if I already have the impact?
What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
Yes and no. Depending on the application, one or the other may be preferable. An impact gun has no feel, you hammer away and it either comes loose or breaks, a bar lets you feel/hear what is happening. Obviously using a huge breaker bar requires the vehicle to be incredibly well supported so it is easier to use on cars than bikes. If you end up with crazy high torque requirements (hundreds of lb-ft) that exceed the capability of your torque wrenches, you can hang weights on a breaker bar to make your own torque wrench.
In my case, I hadn't yet made up the 3/4" hose for my air gun and airgun didn't have enough torque with the 1/4" hose I was using. Bouncing on the bar should be well over 1000 lb-ft. and it broke the bolt loose.
pecan_choco_hurricane
Well-known member
I did an oil change on my sportster yesterday and I still made a mess at the filter area. Also Amazon is selling Lucas oil 20w50 for 8.99 a quart right now if anyone is looking for oil. If you don't have amazon prime; canadian tire has motul SxS 10W50 4l jugs at $48 it's a great alternative just not as cheap.
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Went for an evening ride yesterday. Couple hours of beautiful riding in the country side. Stop for a few pics. Figure I better get gas. Wow 162.9 and no line up, yet. Note the mileage in the little book and back on the bike, no start. Turn the key and can see the voltmeter drop below 10v no dash light or side clock on. Now there is a line up. I duck walk the bike to get out of the way. Take off side case, seat, and side panel. Check fuses and another known problem wire but all good.
For the first time this spring I threw in one of those lithium booster packs. Hook it up and I’m golden just keep it running until I get home. Get the bike back together and realize I cannot hook the side case to the lower locking mechanism without taking the key out of the ignition , I wasn’t gonna to turn it off so made sure the case was wedged in place, avoiding bumps and stalling the last 10km home.
Cdn Tire this morning new AGM filled and being charged now.
Lesson learned a10 year battery is a blessing and a curse. It was on the list to replace but hey it is still working. Lesson 2 pay up for CAA in case the next fix isn’t as lucky.
For the first time this spring I threw in one of those lithium booster packs. Hook it up and I’m golden just keep it running until I get home. Get the bike back together and realize I cannot hook the side case to the lower locking mechanism without taking the key out of the ignition , I wasn’t gonna to turn it off so made sure the case was wedged in place, avoiding bumps and stalling the last 10km home.
Cdn Tire this morning new AGM filled and being charged now.
Lesson learned a10 year battery is a blessing and a curse. It was on the list to replace but hey it is still working. Lesson 2 pay up for CAA in case the next fix isn’t as lucky.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Badly corroded fasteners can get rounded out, stripped or snapped using an impact gun, where a breaker bar applies steady even torque so sockets don’t strip bolts as easily. You feel the torque making it less likely you’ll strip or break things.
Access is another issue. Automotive suspensions, exhaust systems, alternators, water pumps, starters - fasteners aren’t always accessible with a gun. Try getting a Godzilla to TDC using an impact.
For motorcycle work you’ll never need a breaker bar. Work on cars, trucks or heavy equipment - you’ll need one.
Xhumeka
Well-known member
Did some work on the little bikes... got all three running and ready to putt around on.
1990 DT200R - cleaned the carb and replaced the petcock. Running well!
1982 CT110 - just threw some seafoam in the tank and rode it around for awhile... runs and idles well enough so I'll save the carb cleaning for another year.
1982 PA50 - hadn't started this one in over 5 years... probably longer. Expected to need to clean the carb on this one too, but thought i'd try to get it running as is. Peddled it for about 5 mins, gassed (myself) out so hooked it up to the ATV and had my wife tow me around for a few mins until it fired up! Running a little rough so I'll definitely have to clean the carb this year, but that can wait for another day.
1990 DT200R - cleaned the carb and replaced the petcock. Running well!
1982 CT110 - just threw some seafoam in the tank and rode it around for awhile... runs and idles well enough so I'll save the carb cleaning for another year.
1982 PA50 - hadn't started this one in over 5 years... probably longer. Expected to need to clean the carb on this one too, but thought i'd try to get it running as is. Peddled it for about 5 mins, gassed (myself) out so hooked it up to the ATV and had my wife tow me around for a few mins until it fired up! Running a little rough so I'll definitely have to clean the carb this year, but that can wait for another day.
My tool box is too full. Too much crap. It makes the drawers difficult to open and close at times. Sometimes something becomes stuck and the drawer can't open or close. Very frustrating. I'd like a bigger tool box, but not enough space here in the garage.
I found these mini tool boxes at Princess Auto, $19.99 each. They don't hold much, but enough to clear some stuff from the big box and make things more manageable.
I found these mini tool boxes at Princess Auto, $19.99 each. They don't hold much, but enough to clear some stuff from the big box and make things more manageable.
Thanks! Good point on the feel I hadn't thought of. My impact does up to 800 lb ft of removal... (Or destruction, whichever comes first 
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Relax
Well-known member
I always wondered who would be dumb enough to waste their money on one of those uselessly small tool boxes that looked like they belonged in the toy section for their kids, but OMG - mounting them to the wall to take advantage of unused space is genius! Looks like they also can hold a more useful amount than I thought.
Speaking of unused space, I had an odd area between my 2 garage doors and one of the lift posts. I originally stacked milk crates sideways, then found an Ikea Vittsjo shelf that fit perfectly and was accessible from all sides. Sorry, this is the only pic I have before I started cluttering the area up again.
Are jacks worth repairing?
I have this Harbour Freight 1.5 Ton Rapid Jack. It seems like the seal has give up as it won't even stay up under its own weight.
I can pump it but as soon as I stop pumping, its starts to go back down.
You can see in one of the picks the oil solidifying and oozing out.
Whatss the process of repair on one of these?
I'm assuming that parts will more less be industry standard?
I have this Harbour Freight 1.5 Ton Rapid Jack. It seems like the seal has give up as it won't even stay up under its own weight.
I can pump it but as soon as I stop pumping, its starts to go back down.
You can see in one of the picks the oil solidifying and oozing out.
Whatss the process of repair on one of these?
I'm assuming that parts will more less be industry standard?
@Scuba Steve will have all of the knowledge on rebuild. A similar new torin can be delivered by Amazon for $200 or for similar money, costco has a 3 ton torin. If you price in your time, I can't see repair being cost-effective. If you view it as a project, I suspect you could get it fixed for not many dollars.
I think I paid less than $100 CAD for the jack when in out it at least 10 years ago. The dollar was really good at the time with the USD.
I probably use the thing less the once a year.
Buying a new one would probably make most sense but it would be a cool little project to do.
Not that I have time for a project to repair an item I hardly ever use.
I probably use the thing less the once a year.
Buying a new one would probably make most sense but it would be a cool little project to do.
Not that I have time for a project to repair an item I hardly ever use.
It really depends on what is wrong.
If it is just the seals, easy fix. If the cylinder or shaft are pitted and scored, not worth it.
Take it apart and check, nothing to lose.
I order o-rings all the time, hit me up if that is what is required.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
You’re not gonna get 800 lbs out of anything 1/2 and down. Whats advertised be what you get is a big difference. I have a commercial ingersoll-Rand handcrafted at 1000lbs - I’m lucky if it hits 200. Same with my Fuel 1/2”. With a 12a HO battery, I’ve hit 350lbs.Thanks! Good point on the feel I hadn't thought of. My impact does up to 800 lb ft of removal... (Or destruction, whichever comes first
Try touching a junk bolt on a vice, then see where our manual torque wrench moves the bolt.
You might get shocked.
Was just looking at those boxes at PA in Scarborough...but they were $25 or more here.My tool box is too full. Too much crap. It makes the drawers difficult to open and close at times. Sometimes something becomes stuck and the drawer can't open or close. Very frustrating. I'd like a bigger tool box, but not enough space here in the garage.
I found these mini tool boxes at Princess Auto, $19.99 each. They don't hold much, but enough to clear some stuff from the big box and make things more manageable.
Good use case for them. May pick some up when they're on sale.
