Other bearing is already out. Remaining bearing is already smashed apart.
The issue is that the inside diameter of the still-pressed-in outer race, is bigger than the lip in the wheel casting inboard of the bearing. A straight object inserted from the other side rests on the cast lip and doesn't touch the bearing race, so I can't punch it out from the other side.
An inverted-cone - the end bigger than the shaft - or something bent sharply at the very tip might be able to get in where the bearing's seal normally sits, but I don't have anything like that.
Had a similar issue.I dremeled two tiny notches just inside of the outer race (material was a lot softer) and used a long skinny punch after heating the hub.
Other bearing is already out. Remaining bearing is already smashed apart.
The issue is that the inside diameter of the still-pressed-in outer race, is bigger than the lip in the wheel casting inboard of the bearing. A straight object inserted from the other side rests on the cast lip and doesn't touch the bearing race, so I can't punch it out from the other side.
The easiest way to remove a seated bearing is to with a socket and hammer. Put as large a socket as will fit into the backside opening, a few good whacks and both bearings should start to move.
The important thing is to start there - that way the spanner and other bearing help keep things together, less chance of blowing up the seated bearing.
Why can’t you get it from the back? I get the seat lip is bigger - why not hit the inner raceway? or if that’s gone and balls are out, a punch inserted from the back should catch the outer edge of the ball race.
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