The two clean outs are weird. Can you see below? Original plumber didn't get things lined up right on tail piece to plumbing. Shows lack of caring. Who knows what they did.
I would pull the plugs and snake the drain. By feel (or camera) you can get an idea of what is happening.
It's plumbed incorrectly. Should run vertical to a 90, then over to the drain where it again goes 90 (assuming the vent connection and ptrap are under the floor). The wye fitting and 45 are a challenge to align - plumbers don't do it that way.
Are any of the <$100 paint spray guns decent? I'm fancying repainting 8 cabinet doors that I'm not currently happy with. They're not in the kitchen and don't need to be perfect, just acceptable. I could also roll them which is what I might end up doing I was just thinking spraying them might turn out better than a roller.
I wouldn't replumb what you see until you understand that leg of the drain entirely.
During construction, plumbers rough in drains and supply lines. They usually leave the last piece of tsthe drain stubbed out but not glued (it's just dry fit). The config in the pic would suggest the Ptrap is under the floor, and the second vertical pipe is the vent expecting an AAV (cheater vent) to be fitted after the sink is in place. This is common on kitchen islands, and where it's possible/practical to get a vent to the stack
When the cabinet installer puts the cabinets in, they pull the stubs and cut holes for the plumber to reinstall them.
When the plumber returns, he connects the sink strainer basket tailpiece to the drain using a trap adapter fitting, configures the AAV line to get the AAV as close to the counter top as possible, then glues up.
If you get pics of the plumbing below, I'll give you a code-compliant drawing to correct the plumbing.
No other info available as the floor below is finished. No other persons worked on the plumbing other than the ones' (trades) who built it. I'm not saying they were competent, just that whatever trades the home builder chose are the ones who did the work.
The drain just clogged one day. It's never seemed to be slow-running. Nothing new (bad) sent down the drain recently that I know of. No problems with it the past 5yrs.
No other info available as the floor below is finished. No other persons worked on the plumbing other than the ones' (trades) who built it. I'm not saying they were competent, just that whatever trades the home builder chose are the ones who did the work.
The drain just clogged one day. It's never seemed to be slow-running. Nothing new (bad) sent down the drain recently that I know of. No problems with it the past 5yrs.
Lots of room to get a camera down beside the pipes to see what's happening. Or run a camera through the drain and see what's happening (but it is easier to get disoriented).
No other info available as the floor below is finished. No other persons worked on the plumbing other than the ones' (trades) who built it. I'm not saying they were competent, just that whatever trades the home builder chose are the ones who did the work.
The drain just clogged one day. It's never seemed to be slow-running. Nothing new (bad) sent down the drain recently that I know of. No problems with it the past 5yrs.
1) Try a plunger. Put 4 inches of water in the sink, then push and pull to see if you can dislodge the clog. If that works, squirt 1/2 a cup of grease-cutting dish soap down the drain, let it sit for 10 minutes, then see if you get any draining. If it starts to drain, run the hot water slowly for 1/2 hour.
2) Draino crystals (plumber's favorite when they can't get to a plumber supply for the dangerous stuff). It works, it's not harmful to your drains or septic, it's easy to use - just follow the instructions. Caveat is if your clog is way down the pipe, skunkwork plumbers are notorious for using 90's on horizontal runs, these block up easily, particularly if you have a dishwasher or garburator on the drain branch.
3) Get out the snake. This is your last resort. Get a thin snake and go down the sink drain; it will be difficult to get a snake to cooperate with those cleanouts.
Lots of room to get a camera down beside the pipes to see what's happening. Or run a camera through the drain and see what's happening (but it is easier to get disoriented).
I'm guessing the final hookups were done by a handyman, not a plumber. Maybe the work below too.
Clues: Pex B, the funky cold supply line running back under the cabinets, that ABS drain sculpture -- no way a plumber did that.
Also see an outlet in that pic, an electrical safety no-no unless you have an appliance specifically designed and installed for in-cabinet operation (sump, garburator, dishwasher, HWT). If the appliance is removed, the outlet should be removed too.
I'm guessing the final hookups were done by a handyman, not a plumber. Maybe the work below too.
Clues: Pex B, the funky cold supply line running back under the cabinets, that ABS drain sculpture -- no way a plumber did that.
Also see an outlet in that pic, an electrical safety no-no unless you have an appliance specifically designed and installed for in-cabinet operation (sump, garburator, dishwasher, HWT). If the appliance is removed, the outlet should be removed too.
I think there are 2 supply lines. One tees off the hot to the dishwasher (probably), the other tees off the cold and heads back through the cabinet floor (escussion on the right). Maybe to an ice maker? Coffee station?
Are any of the <$100 paint spray guns decent? I'm fancying repainting 8 cabinet doors that I'm not currently happy with. They're not in the kitchen and don't need to be perfect, just acceptable. I could also roll them which is what I might end up doing I was just thinking spraying them might turn out better than a roller.
Rolling your doors will make them look like drywall. Go ahead and roll them and while the paint is wet, back brush them.
Ever seen a house where they rolled trimmed out jambs between rooms? Not a good look.
Rolling your doors will make them look like drywall. Go ahead and roll them and while the paint is wet, back brush them.
Ever seen a house where they rolled trimmed out jambs between rooms? Not a good look.
I prefer using oil based paints on furniture. If you thin slightly with xylene or paint thinner, use a good roller, and maintain a good wet edge the paint should level itself -- I don't usually need to tip with a brush.
Latex is tougher; it dries very fast so you're pulling paint when you try brush tipping, sometimes you increase the stroke marks.
I prefer using oil based paints on furniture. If you thin slightly with xylene or paint thinner, use a good roller, and maintain a good wet edge the paint should level itself -- I don't usually need to tip with a brush.
Latex is tougher; it dries very fast so you're pulling paint when you try brush tipping, sometimes you increase the stroke marks.
Oil based paint is getting pretty hard to source , although when you read the chemistry on latex , there is a lot of “not water” in there.
The roll and tip method can produce a beautiful finish , cabinet design trends in the UK and north east US right now are brush finish on kitchens . It’s labour intensive so we may not see it here beyond custom work.
My original trade was autobody , I sprayed with a DeVilbis JGA siphon gun , later a top feed . Now I have a Graco ( because it’s easy to get parts ) but the princess auto HVLP top feed twenty buck guns are fantastic and I have both size needles they sell , it’s a great gun for small projects and hard to beat for the price . Graco , six hundred, PA twenty bucks ……
I think there are 2 supply lines. One tees off the hot to the dishwasher (probably), the other tees off the cold and heads back through the cabinet floor (escussion on the right). Maybe to an ice maker? Coffee station?
I'm not a plumber , and wont claim to know code, however the common sense code would have me kicking whomever put a P trap for a sink in the floor joists on the recieving end of a nut sack whack. If thats where it went there is almost zero treason for buddy to plumb it up that way. Almost looks like the contractor that built the house said , we dont need to bring that plumber back in for that , Frankie hook that sink up!
I'm not a plumber , and wont claim to know code, however the common sense code would have me kicking whomever put a P trap for a sink in the floor joists on the recieving end of a nut sack whack. If thats where it went there is almost zero treason for buddy to plumb it up that way. Almost looks like the contractor that built the house said , we dont need to bring that plumber back in for that , Frankie hook that sink up!
It's uncommon for sinks, but it's done. Your washerbox, tub, or shower drain will have it's Ptrap inside a wall or under the floor.
Sometimes it's done to provide extra room in the sink cabinet. Based on the pic, I'm guessing the vent iconnction is under the floor (the second vertical pipe) and a Ptrap goes directly before. If that second pipe is the vent, it should have an AAV vent placed up as high as possible in the cabinet. No vent will increase clogging in drains as the sewage loses velocity and leaves heavy waste particles in the drain. They crust up and accelerate blockages.
It's easy to tell if a PTRAP is under there if you have a snake or a borescope. It's simple to fix if it isn't there -- just add one i the cabinet and put an AAV connection after the ptrap.
@Hardwrkr13 I am with many others here that it does not look correct but that doesn't mean it is entirely wrong depending on what is under the floor. Being an island, maybe there is a trap hidden in the floor with venting??? That second capped drain pipe is also an oddity.
An inspection camera may be your nest friend here, a look down beside the drain pipe(s) via the existing holes in the bottom of the cabinets and/or down the drain pipes. They can come pretty cheap these days, specially the USB ones that use your phone, depending on where you are someone here may also be able to help you out with theirs. I don't use mine often but when I do it is very handy to have.
@mimico_polak, like others have said a thermal camera and also to look for air leaks. You have that fireplace, if you don't use it make sure the flue is sealed up. If you do, make sure it is closed when not in use. If you find some rooms are better than others... having doors closed/open can have a big impact on rooms being cold/warm, good or bad. Our house is best when all interior doors are open but when it gets really cold there are a couple of rooms where we shut the door as they are cooler and not often used. We are rads but the same thing happens with forced air.
Finally, are you using a "smart" thermostat and if so are you changing temps etc.? That can be counter productive as the system needs to catch up when the heat goes up. Specially since you insulated on the outside and now thermal mass is in play. Imagine you let the masonry cool down (even just a little), then you turn up the heat and now need to heat the space but also the cooled masonry, then you let it cool down.... If this is the case, try a fixed temp. If not changing temps, disregard...
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