Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

@Hardwrkr13 I am with many others here that it does not look correct but that doesn't mean it is entirely wrong depending on what is under the floor. Being an island, maybe there is a trap hidden in the floor with venting??? That second capped drain pipe is also an oddity.

An inspection camera may be your nest friend here, a look down beside the drain pipe(s) via the existing holes in the bottom of the cabinets and/or down the drain pipes. They can come pretty cheap these days, specially the USB ones that use your phone, depending on where you are someone here may also be able to help you out with theirs. I don't use mine often but when I do it is very handy to have.
It's likely wrong. The second capped pipe is almost certainly a vent. After you clear the clog, fill the sink as high as possible, remove the drain plug and time how long it takes to empty - if you hear gurgling (like when you pour a gas can without opening the vent), the line isn't properly vented. Fill the sink again, this time remove the cap on the pipe to the left. If it drains a lot faster and doesn't guggle -- that second line is your vent.

To check for a Ptrap, use a 4" hole saw and punch thru behind the existing pipes. That's enough access to feel around for a PTRAP. use the cutout to repair the inspection hole.

No PTRAP found? Do this:

1765901515500.png

You will need: (
1 x Ptrap Adapter, 1-1/2" (this connects the drain to the filter basket tail piece)
1-1/2 - 1/2" ABS dishwasher tee (not shown in pic, install under Ptrap adapter over the PTRAP )
1 x union type Ptrap, 1-1/2" (the ones that unscrew in the middle) .
2' of 1-1/2" ABS (2' or so)
1 x 1-1/2" TY ABS fitting (this is where the Ptrap dumps into the drain and the vent connects vertically.)
1 x 1-1/2" 45 ABS fitting (female-female)
1 x 1-1/2" 45 ABS street fitting (female-male, fits into the bottom of TY fitting
1 x AAV (air attmittace valve -- be sure it's CSA approved, the $10 units don't always meet code- they risk flooding.
You'll need a small can of ABS glue and a bit of Teflon tape for the AAV threads.

You can cut ABS with a chopsaw if you don't have an ABS cutter and reamer, jusr be sure to debur the cut edges of the pipe using a knife or 80 grit sandpaper.

Dryfit everything before gluing.

Hope this heps.
 
Oil based paint is getting pretty hard to source , although when you read the chemistry on latex , there is a lot of “not water” in there.
The roll and tip method can produce a beautiful finish , cabinet design trends in the UK and north east US right now are brush finish on kitchens . It’s labour intensive so we may not see it here beyond custom work.
My original trade was autobody , I sprayed with a DeVilbis JGA siphon gun , later a top feed . Now I have a Graco ( because it’s easy to get parts ) but the princess auto HVLP top feed twenty buck guns are fantastic and I have both size needles they sell , it’s a great gun for small projects and hard to beat for the price . Graco , six hundred, PA twenty bucks ……


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The local ship chandler will have good oil paint but in shippy colours. I have a bunch of spray guns including a 50+ year old DeVilbis but haven't used them for ages. The cleanup is hard to justify for small projects.

The Graco battery model uses A DeWalt battery but is also available in Class 1 Div 1 for people spraying more volatile products. It's a few hundred more for the C1 D1.
 
It's likely wrong. The second capped pipe is almost certainly a vent. After you clear the clog, fill the sink as high as possible, remove the drain plug and time how long it takes to empty - if you hear gurgling (like when you pour a gas can without opening the vent), the line isn't properly vented. Fill the sink again, this time remove the cap on the pipe to the left. If it drains a lot faster and doesn't guggle -- that second line is your vent.

To check for a Ptrap, use a 4" hole saw and punch thru behind the existing pipes. That's enough access to feel around for a PTRAP. use the cutout to repair the inspection hole.

No PTRAP found? Do this:

View attachment 77043

You will need: (
1 x Ptrap Adapter, 1-1/2" (this connects the drain to the filter basket tail piece)
1-1/2 - 1/2" ABS dishwasher tee (not shown in pic, install under Ptrap adapter over the PTRAP )
1 x union type Ptrap, 1-1/2" (the ones that unscrew in the middle) .
2' of 1-1/2" ABS (2' or so)
1 x 1-1/2" TY ABS fitting (this is where the Ptrap dumps into the drain and the vent connects vertically.)
1 x 1-1/2" 45 ABS fitting (female-female)
1 x 1-1/2" 45 ABS street fitting (female-male, fits into the bottom of TY fitting
1 x AAV (air attmittace valve -- be sure it's CSA approved, the $10 units don't always meet code- they risk flooding.
You'll need a small can of ABS glue and a bit of Teflon tape for the AAV threads.

You can cut ABS with a chopsaw if you don't have an ABS cutter and reamer, jusr be sure to debur the cut edges of the pipe using a knife or 80 grit sandpaper.

Dryfit everything before gluing.

Hope this heps.
That does help, thanks. Have a buddy coming by next week with a scope that I should be able to slide down beside the pipe without cutting to check for a Ptrap there.
 
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