I've never had success with Draino, but Home Hardware has their own drain cleaner, which un-clogs anything.
Oh, and like the others mentioned.....you need a trap.
Oh, and like the others mentioned.....you need a trap.
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
No I can't see below as this is the island. As we had the house built I may have a photo of the area before the island was installed over that area..
I’m not seeing a trap like others said or how it may be vented ? You could add a “cheater” vent but that might be tricky to get enough height .
The drain cleaner Gary mentioned from home hardware is the stuff plumbers tend to use , it’s really effective.
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
The drain cleaner Gary mentioned from home hardware is the stuff plumbers tend to use , it’s really effective.
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
KLR Junkie
Well-known member
Make sure you use the original BIN, not BIN 2, which is crap.
Are any of the <$100 paint spray guns decent? I'm fancying repainting 8 cabinet doors that I'm not currently happy with. They're not in the kitchen and don't need to be perfect, just acceptable. I could also roll them which is what I might end up doing I was just thinking spraying them might turn out better than a roller.
I would just roll them. If you use a spray gun for the first time you'll end up rolling them anyway to even out any uneven spray.
Wife made a funny comment last night, and she's 100%.
'So we spent all this money and the house looks great...but I'm not really seeing any benefit in terms of heating the house as it's still cold'.
She's 100% right. We spent oodles of money, blood, sweat, time off, parental leave, and more time on all this work to insulate the damn exterior...and I'm still feeling cold walls, floors and a general minimal benefit from it.
Was it a full waste of time? Or do I now start looking for the easy 'wins'.
I'm planning on ripping out all the trim on the inside of the house and checking for leaks all around.
Also planning on ripping out my basement drywall and seeing if I can find air leaks coming in under the floor.
She's also asked me if we can consider making the house bigger....FML...buying a new house is stupidly expensive...I wonder how much it would cost to extend the rear by 10ft or so.
'So we spent all this money and the house looks great...but I'm not really seeing any benefit in terms of heating the house as it's still cold'.
She's 100% right. We spent oodles of money, blood, sweat, time off, parental leave, and more time on all this work to insulate the damn exterior...and I'm still feeling cold walls, floors and a general minimal benefit from it.
Was it a full waste of time? Or do I now start looking for the easy 'wins'.
I'm planning on ripping out all the trim on the inside of the house and checking for leaks all around.
Also planning on ripping out my basement drywall and seeing if I can find air leaks coming in under the floor.
She's also asked me if we can consider making the house bigger....FML...buying a new house is stupidly expensive...I wonder how much it would cost to extend the rear by 10ft or so.
Powerfister HVLP guns aren't terrible and they are very cheap. Your air supply must be dry. I use a dessicant pack on the gun in addition to my normal line dryer. Regulator on the gun makes your life a lot easier too. Pick the tip for the product you want to spray. I have a 1.8mm tip and it works well for stain but getting latex to spray well with it is a chore that requires a lot of floetrol. Rolling is faster than spraying latex with the gun I have. A larger tip probably improves that. With the powerfister guns, you don't change tip size, you buy a new gun with the new tip size you want.
Are you changing the colour a lot? Are there loose raised panels in them? If yes to both, make a good plan on how to avoid a horrible line when the panels shrink away from the frame.
sburns
Well-known member
Serious?
Wow I'm kinda surprised, I thought your initial impression was it worked. Has time proven otherwise? Heating bills relatively the same as before?
Maybe install a wood burning stove or something and just burn wood to heat up the house with a lot more heat.
No just simple MDF shaker doors. The Poly clear didn't come out nice enough so I want to just sand them and repaint white and skip the poly (they're already white). I think I'll just save the cash and and headache and roll them.
I spray whenever I can , but you need a place , everything around you needs masked off . Even with a HVLP (high volume low pressure ) gun, the overspray will float around alot . These days I make a 2x2 frame covered in cheap poly as a spray booth and a 20x20" box fan with two funace filters taped on it . Yes its hill billy but I can get a very acceptable finish , rolling sucks . I use Benjamine Moore Command paint , it sprays well and is ok priced.
Got pics of this setup?
sburns
Well-known member
Someone around here has a setup in the garage for doing moto body parts (they posted photos), works just like @crankcall describes, just plastic walls with the parts hanging on a chain.
Yup, initial impression was positive...but it was also a fairly mild winter.
This year...all bets are off and I'm frustrated. The house LOOKS 100x better. But it sure doesn't feel it.
KLR Junkie
Well-known member
I'd probably try a thermal camera before tearing the house apart.
Either a standalone unit or a phone attachment: Amazon IR cameras
Either a standalone unit or a phone attachment: Amazon IR cameras
I usually borrow one annually. Might have to do it again this year.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
There should be a Ptrap and vent under the sink somewhere; it might be installed in the floor joists well be under the floor.
Based on the pic, it doesn't look like a plumber installed that, likely put together by a handiman or home owner.
A little more info will provide better solutions:
1) Is it a slow-running drain or clogged drain? If it's slow, is it noticeably slower than a month ago?
2) Do you have pics from the basement of how the drain runs from to the main 3" drain line?
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I wouldn't replumb what you see until you understand that leg of the drain entirely.
During construction, plumbers rough in drains and supply lines. They usually leave the last piece of tsthe drain stubbed out but not glued (it's just dry fit). The config in the pic would suggest the Ptrap is under the floor, and the second vertical pipe is the vent expecting an AAV (cheater vent) to be fitted after the sink is in place. This is common on kitchen islands, and where it's possible/practical to get a vent to the stack
When the cabinet installer puts the cabinets in, they pull the stubs and cut holes for the plumber to reinstall them.
When the plumber returns, he connects the sink strainer basket tailpiece to the drain using a trap adapter fitting, configures the AAV line to get the AAV as close to the counter top as possible, then glues up.
If you get pics of the plumbing below, I'll give you a code-compliant drawing to correct the plumbing.
