What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 73 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive, Inverted 24 Fl. Oz. (Net Wt 17.6 oz.) aerosol (Pack of 1) 3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive, Inverted 24 Fl. Oz. (Net Wt 17.6 oz.) aerosol (Pack of 1) : Amazon.ca: Home
I would use spray adhesive too. At $42/can, unless you have other projects lined up, it might be cheaper to buy a ready made map pocket.

Alternatively, sew an old shirt on the back of the map pouch. Leave it open at one end so you can slide in foam if you want.

Edit:
I've got a can of super 77 open. Nozzle is plugged as expected. If you think that will work for you, I can try and clear the nozzle. You can stop in and spray as much as you need.
 
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3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive, Inverted 24 Fl. Oz. (Net Wt 17.6 oz.) aerosol (Pack of 1) 3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive, Inverted 24 Fl. Oz. (Net Wt 17.6 oz.) aerosol (Pack of 1) : Amazon.ca: Home
Plus one for a 3M spray glue. Super 77 is what I used to hold the fabric on two bikes (I won't bore you with pics but trust me it's good stuff) Maybe WB is onto to something even better. 90 is more than 77.

Edit: Super 77 18$ at ctc
 
Plus one for a 3M spray glue. Super 77 is what I used to hold the fabric on two bikes (I won't bore you with pics but trust me it's good stuff) Maybe WB is onto to something even better. 90 is more than 77.

Edit: Super 77 18$ at ctc
Never used 90.77 is really good.
 
The killer now has new sprockets, chain, oil and filter.
 
New shoes for the Wee. Rode the metzlers to the steel waiting for these to arrive. First time using a cheapie tire changer setup - easier than I thought.

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I'm adapting a map pouch from a tank bag to map pouch only. No tank bag. I've attached four plastic quick release buckles to use with existing tank bag straps. All it needs now is some foam on the back side to protect the tank from scratches.

The pouch is made of nylon, the same stuff used on various tank bags and other motorbike luggage. How best to attach the foam? Similar to carpet underpad, fairly dense. I want to use glue, but what's the best kind for this purpose? Any experts out there?

Thanks.
I'd use cheapie polyester polar fleece instead of foam. Foam will trap grit between the face and your paint, fleece will not.

You can stitch fleece onto the base.

If you insist on foam, most can be stitched too, use a bonded nylon threadcsnd long stitches.
 
I'd use cheapie polyester polar fleece instead of foam. Foam will trap grit between the face and your paint, fleece will not.

Thanks for the suggestion. Fleece won't be very good when it's wet. No?
 
Thanks for the suggestion. Fleece won't be very good when it's wet. No?
It may pick up a little moisture at the leading edge, not enough to worry about. You probably have that type of fleece on the necklining of your jacket, maybe on some of the passing inside your helmet -- give it a shake and it's dry.

You want the thinnest you can find, it will have a weight between 180-220/GSM, the clerks at a fabric store will probably call it 'microfleece'. The advantage of fleece is it's non-abrasive, foams pickup contaminants and becomes abrasive -- not what you want to see on a painted surface.
 
Youngest just put together a table saw in the garage. He claimed it would go UNDER his humongous work bench.
 
Youngest just put together a table saw in the garage. He claimed it would go UNDER his humongous work bench.
Your garage or his?
 
So you just got a new table saw, is that what I heard?
Never really wanted one, evidenced by my having all ten fingers intact.
 
Never really wanted one, evidenced by my having all ten fingers intact.
They're handy when you need one and a bulky floor spacer gobbler when you don't. I always preferred to borrow the one at work or that of a friend.
As for keeping the fingers intact remove the GD guards. I swear the only times I get close is when I fighting with some cumbersome nanny state guard that's jamming or getting caught.
 
They're handy when you need one and a bulky floor spacer gobbler when you don't. I always preferred to borrow the one at work or that of a friend.
As for keeping the fingers intact remove the GD guards. I swear the only times I get close is when I fighting with some cumbersome nanny state guard that's jamming or getting caught.
I'm selling my dads nice cast iron table saw and keeping my dewalt contractor saw. There are some clear downsides to the contractor saw but I can throw it on a shelf in the big spaces between uses.

As for guards, I leave the splitter on as it provides benefit with almost no downside (although most of my life I never had any guards nor any mishaps). Sometimes i'll pop on the blade guard but to use it requires the blade almost all the way up and it obviously restricts visibility. Always use push sticks. I havent cut one of them either but I'd rather chop a stick than my fingers.

Sawstop is a cool idea but they can rot in hell. Money grubbing bastards pretending they care about safety. They tried to get sawstop enshrined in law and they had the patent. F those guys.
 
Yeah I have a cheapie compound mitre that hangs on the wall and a circ saw in the roller cabinet. Together they do 90% of what I need.
 
Yeah I have a cheapie compound mitre that hangs on the wall and a circ saw in the roller cabinet. Together they do 90% of what I need.
Add a track saw and you can be at >95%. It's hard to do a long angled rip without a table saw and rips (especially dados) are slower without one but carpentry isn't a job for me so I can afford a little more time to buy back the floor space.
 
I inherit tools when my dad buys new ones.

Currently a table saw, mitre saw, and joiner are all taking up space in my garage.

I hope he sells more of his stuff.
 

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