The aftermarket instrument tach input will surely be designed to be connected to the signal side of an ignition coil. Pick either coil, it won't matter. The low voltage wiring to each coil will have 2 wires to it. One of them will be switched ignition (this wire will be the same colour to both coils - probably red), the other one will be the signal which that aftermarket meter will be expecting to be connected to.
The OEM tach uses a low voltage communication wire that is separate from the once-per-revolution ignition coil signals.
The arm is on a rod that seems to act on the pushrod at the center of the clutch hub? I guess I'll bite the bullet and pull that cover. Need to change the oil anyway.
Yeah, I've noticed that when I ride it cold, the plates are pretty sticky. I can un-stick them by hitting the rear brake (with the clutch pulled in) while the bike is on the center stand.
Can I remove the plates without any special tools?
I don't know why I keep doing this to myself. This time the tire change itself went fine, but I couldn't seat the bead. Gonna need a bigger compressor.
Ima need to grab a car2go, run to Mississauga, remove the wheel, drive about a kilometer to a Petro-Can station, lube the tire and hope the bead pops in, drive the wheel back to the self-storage lot, then run back home to stop the clock on the car2go.
#urbanliving #facepalm
Meanwhile I was a Princess Auto this morning and I saw that they had a couple of tail lights (meant for trailers) that wouldn't look out of place on the bike. $12 tail light anyone? http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/4-1-2-in-stop-turn-tail-license-light/A-p4200185e