The $100 Ninja | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

The $100 Ninja

RedDogDarren

Well-known member
Excellent thread, thanks for doing this.
 

Matt Rain

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Was finally able to do a compression test today - wow is that 5/8 socket ever a tight fit in these super-deep spark plug wells! Makes me appreciate how wrenching-friendly my FJ is.

Anyhoo I got 170-170-150-170

Acceptable range as per the manual is 139 to 213 (quite the spread!)

I have yet to adjust the valves and the bike seems cold-blooded in this 5-6 degree weather, so I'm cautiously optimistic about cylinder #3, prolly just needs to be re-shimmed.

Either way I'm confident enough about the general health of the bike to start ordering parts and cosmetic bits. This is where it starts to get exciting, and where my wife starts shaking her head at the barrage of incoming parcels.

#weeeeeeeeeeeee
 

TwistedKestrel

King of GTAM
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Curious to hear how you compare doing the shim-under-bucket adjustment on the ZX6 to the relatively easy adjustment on the FJ600
 

Matt Rain

Well-known member
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Yeah, I'm not looking forward to removing the camshafts and then re-doing the timing.

Unrelated question: I get strong front wheel flop in slow corners, is that a normal thing in a "sporty" bike like this? At first I thought it was caused by the underinflated front tire, but it does it even after inflating it to 36 psi.

The BMW S1000R I rode for a day had similar geometry and I don't remember it flopping like that.

Head bearing seems good, no clunk under hard braking.

Help?
 

Matt Rain

Well-known member
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BTW the front tire is old and deeply cupped/scalloped, can that cause the flopping? Did I just answer my own question?

Rear tire is in good shape, prolly has 50-60% tread left. I guess I'll order a matching front and see what happens. Shinko 009 Raven. I like the tread pattern.
 

Matt Rain

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Yeah, forks need to come apart anyway for new seals.

PO says that springs are linear Ohlins and that the rate is for a bigger guy - I'm 225 nekkid and the front end does seem adequately firm.
 

Matt Rain

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Quick update

But first, a confession: I lied. I started ordering parts early last week. *grins* Actually, I already have all I need to make the bike road-worthy.

I installed the LSL handlebar conversion kit, an el-cheapo handlebar I found at Town Moto, and smoked rear blinkers:



I'm supposed to be able to reuse the same clutch and throttle cables, but I don't see it happening... I need another couple inches (yeah yeah, that's what she said.)

I like the look of the faux leather tank cover:



I may end up chucking the bar end mirrors, not fond of the added width.

Relocated the coolant overflow bottle, much stealthier now:



I have a new round headlight and the front blinkers, but I ran out of time and energy today.
 

Joe Bass

*probably eating right now*
Site Supporter
I can't believe that this bike was $100 and that some people were saying to scrap it.
I also can't believe the size of that tail light! ?
Not sure if you want to post, but when it's all said and done, I'd be interested in knowing what the final tally is.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 

TwistedKestrel

King of GTAM
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Can't help but being distracted by the nextdoor S-type being "protected" by about $5 worth of tarp and bungee cords

I guess you found some good information on the coolant overflow thing... what'd you find, or where? I need to learn that myself
 

Matt Rain

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Asked my mechanic of a brother-in-law about it, he said the bottle would just always be full if placed lower like that. *shrugs* Let's see what happens.

That Jag's FUBAR, missing the front end.
 

Matt Rain

Well-known member
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I can't believe that this bike was $100 and that some people were saying to scrap it.
I also can't believe the size of that tail light!
Not sure if you want to post, but when it's all said and done, I'd be interested in knowing what the final tally is.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
Yeah that tail light has got to go. Still researching options, what with needing to include a license plate light and bracket. I dunno yet.

I'm at ~$900 right now, including the cost of the u-haul trailer to pick up the bike. Not pictured here are the front tire (Shinko Raven), headlight, front blinkers, speedo and tach.
 
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Matt Rain

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So how would one go about sourcing slightly longer clutch and throttle cables? Or should I just order OEM replacements and try routing them differently?

LSL only provided a longer brake line, and they say the original throttle/clutch cables should be okay. Only thing I was able to reconnect is the choke cable.
 

TwistedKestrel

King of GTAM
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So how would one go about sourcing slightly longer clutch and throttle cables? Or should I just order OEM replacements and try routing them differently?

LSL only provided a longer brake line, and they say the original throttle/clutch cables should be okay. Only thing I was able to reconnect is the choke cable.
Did you slacken them all the way out at the bottom?
 

PrivatePilot

Ironus Butticus
Site Supporter
Thanks man - the FJ's a good city bike, so narrow and nimble. I had to replace just about every cosmetic bit on it - its previous owner wouldn't recognize it today. Only the fairing is original to the bike, and I'm still looking for a cleaner one.
My first bike was an '83 FJ900. Had a lot of fun on it, went on a lot of adventures...even if it did cost me 9 arms and 4 legs to insure back then.
 

Matt Rain

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Very nice. Did yours have the handlebar-mounted fairing?

I want an '84 XJ900 Seca:

 

Joe Bass

*probably eating right now*
Site Supporter
There are just some bikes that never lose their style. Imo, that is one of them. ^^

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
 

Matt Rain

Well-known member
Site Supporter
Agreed Mr. Bass.

So I placed my order for longer clutch and throttle cables. This stuff is not cheap, but the old cables were due for replacement anyway.

Tally is up to $1,050 or so. I probably shouldn't include wear items like the front tire, but whatever. That's how much I spent to get the bike where it is now.

On the bright side, it looks like the brake rotors still have life on them. I just found an electronic version of Kawasaki's service manual, which gives a minimum thickness of 4mm (front) and 5mm (rear), while my Haynes manual had higher values. Going to trust Kawi here - front rotors are 4.25 and 4.4 and the rear is at 5.45. That just saved me a bunch of money.

Next step will be to change the front tire, mount the headlight and front turn signals, then inspect and clean the carbs. The short-term goal is to have the bike safetied and insured so I can bring it home - trekking to Mississauga and back just to work on it is getting old really quick.

If all goes well I'll have it home by the end of the month. Lesdothis.
 
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Matt Rain

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Went to install the headlight today to see if I liked it. I do!



I meant to do more, including changing the front tire, but installing the headlight fork mounts took a lot more time than I expected. Rubber sleeves were way too big, ended up cutting them in half.

And that's that. This is where we stand as of right now.

 

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