The $100 Ninja | GTAMotorcycle.com

The $100 Ninja

Matt Rain

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So I picked up this run-down 1990 ZX-6D from fellow GTAMer Dilligaf0220. It's in rouger shape than it looks, but it looks it's got good bones.



The plan is to turn it into a mean sport bobber. I will likely steal ideas from this build:





...which makes clever use of covers to hide the ugly radiator/coolant bits. I love the look of those TKC80's, although I might go for a less aggressive tread pattern, like the Pirelli MT60's.



First order of business was to go on a recon tour of the bike after ripping off all the brittle, 25yo plastics. Everything came off scary easily - the ol' gal must've spent its entire life outside, baked by UV rays.



Exhaust is in good shape, inside of the tank is good, paint is rough and orange-peely. I'll probably buy a tank cover for it instead of repainting it.

Dilligaf0220 seemed to think that the wiring was toast, but I got power after replacing a blown starter relay fuse. All the lights, brake lights and signals work. Now, the starter doesn't do anything, so it's either fried or some sensor is preventing it from firing (question for anyone who might've owned that bike in the past: there are two low-fuel lights on the dash and both of them are flashing when the ignition is on... any idea what that means? My Haynes manual is due to come next week.)



For the front end, my first idea was to convert the "clip-ons" with an LSL handlebar kit, but I kinda like the stock ergos. It's a simple clean look too. I'll be able to reuse the old birdcage mount at the front to hook up a round headlight and whatever instrument cluster I end up using.

Will rip off what's left of the front fender and make my own front & rear.

A friend is going to help in fabricating a new subrame for the bobber seat. Cool thing about this bike is that the subframe is just bolted on. Still unsure what seat I'm going to use, will need to research options.

Shouldn't be too hard or expensive to complete this little project. Biggest challenge is going to make it look pretty.

The bike currently lives ~30kms away from me, so progress may not be all that quick.

Bear with me, fellas. :cool:
 
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boarder360

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Looking forward to see how this build goes.
 

Joe Bass

*probably eating right now*
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Subscribed!

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 

TwistedKestrel

King of GTAM
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The build you pictured kept the factory coolant reservoir - you don't have to, if you don't want to. You can replace it with just about anything, a bit smaller even, as long as it stays as the high point in the system.

As for the fuel lights - the bike has no brains, AFAIK. I guess the bike just thinks it's out of gas
 

Brian P

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Moderator
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Re starter not doing anything: If the ignition is on, kill switch is on, and it's in neutral OR the clutch lever is pulled in, the starter should work. These old Kawasakis have a box containing a printed circuit board with discrete components on it (relays, diodes). The relays for the starter interlock and the headlight interlock are in there. Obviously make sure everything is plugged in and that pressing the starter button is actually completing the circuit. First of all, see if power is getting to the starter motor ... the brushes might be worn out. See if the starter main relay is pulling in and completing the circuit. Corroded contacts inside the relay = no workie.

Failing that ... If the proper signals are getting to the relay box but the box isn't doing anything ... it is time for the user to service that which has "no user serviceable parts inside".

Open the relay box and check the traces on the circuit board for continuity and check whether the diodes are working. Bad solder joints are quite possible. I had to replace one of the diodes in mine.
 
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DoubleJ

Well-known member
100 buck deal, great score. Wish I had have had room for one more! Like what you envision but would go with the older syle 7 inch head light like the old Brit bikes used. Good luck with the project and will be watching with interest.
 

RockerGuy

Banned
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Looks good
 

KJM

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Sweet! If those forks are 43mm or slightly under I have some adjustable convertibar clip-ons from my FZ1 that I am selling cheap . Also, Rancho 4x4 truck shock boots (9 bucks or so each) will fit on if you like the look of fork gaiters.
 
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Matt Rain

Well-known member
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The build you pictured kept the factory coolant reservoir - you don't have to, if you don't want to. You can replace it with just about anything, a bit smaller even, as long as it stays as the high point in the system.

As for the fuel lights - the bike has no brains, AFAIK. I guess the bike just thinks it's out of gas

I was wondering about that (the coolant reservoir). Does it really need to be at the high point? I looked it up and there's conflicting advice on the Kawi forums. I've seen several builds where guys strap a bottle to the frame, but it looks lower than the other rad hoses.



 
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Matt Rain

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Sweet! If those forks are 43mm or slightly under I have some adjustable convertibar clip-ons from my FZ1 that I am selling cheap.
They're 41mm. Shoot me a photo, I might be interested if I can make them fit.
 

Matt Rain

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headlight interlock
My heart sank when I read that. No headlight was connected when I tried to start it. I had no idea that that was a thing. Doh!

Now I wanna run back to it to finally hear that Kerker 4-in-1.
 

Joe Bass

*probably eating right now*
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My heart sank when I read that. No headlight was connected when I tried to start it. I had no idea that that was a thing. Doh!

Now I wanna run back to it to finally hear that Kerker 4-in-1.
Sorry, does that mean it won't start unless there is a headlight connected?

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk
 

Matt Rain

Well-known member
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Yes, it's meant as a security feature.

Oh and Twisted Kestrel was right, the double fuel lights are just that - it double-warns you that fuel is low. Strange UI design.

Facepalms all around.
 

Matt Rain

Well-known member
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Meanwhile, I've been shopping around for the best deals in lighting and gauges. I'm gonna go with these items at Dimecity:

Speedo/indicator lights
Tach
Headlight
Headlight brackets
Turn signals
Turn signal fork mount brackets (in chrome)

But before any of this happens, I'll have to test-ride the bike around my storage unit, make sure the bike is at least able to propel itself. I'll check the valve lash and adjust as needed, check the camshafts at the same time (I'm assuming that I'll need to re-shim at least some of the valves.)

Previous owner also mentioned an oil weep near the shifter, which I surmise is coming from the countershaft oil seal.

Forks need new seals.

Carbs need checkin'.

Frame needs buffing/polishing.

I'm not doing a full teardown, but I'll tackle the essentials.
 
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PrivatePilot

Ironus Butticus
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Yes, it's meant as a security feature.
Although a headlight interlock is indeed something new to me as well, my logic would suggest that it's probably a safety feature aimed at preventing people from disabling the headlight during the day. That seems to be a very popular thing for many Americans who for some reason still put appearance ahead of safety, regardless of the fact the law says it must be on all the time on motorcycles.

Those here old enough around here to remember when daytime running lights first became mandatory in Canada may also remember the giant fuss many Americans made about them when they made their way south. That still persists amongst many.
 

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