Oh boy...Put in 5 posts already last year without the sonotubes.
I thought they were only necessary if you have an above ground section so it's level, or the soil is collapsing around the hole b/w the excavation and the pour.
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
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I thought they were only necessary if you have an above ground section so it's level, or the soil is collapsing around the hole b/w the excavation and the pour.
They keep the frost from grabbing the uneven concrete and lifting it. There is a good chance they will shift. Concrete under the post work well just dig below the frost line and pour in 1 bag of fast setting dry then some water no need to try and mix it.
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Thanks.
Just looking at options for easiest post pulling right now.
Option #1 - 48-60” farmer jack
Option #2 - https://www.amazon.ca/VEVOR-Pullers-Lifting-Labor-Saving-Remover/dp/B0FWY5PQ38/ref=asc_df_B0FWY5PQ38
6x6x12 - $65
4x4x12 - $25
I much prefer the 6x6 though
Farmer Jack will be stronger or rent a mini skid steer for a day.
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I would be putting in a poverty fence and saving a fortune. Pound in some posts and use chain link. I suspect this will be used for a few years and then backyard reorganized again.
I have a large pile of new steel fence if you are interested you can pound in the posts quickly much nicer looking than chain link 8x6 panels https://www.rona.ca/en/product/fenc...uUkRZ_QGbPU-av2STVebvntVnFq7TWaRoCl8AQAvD_BwE looks like this.
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I'm interested, let me know.
Re the posts:
Option 1 is the traditional and very solid method but could be a problem if the posts rot off at the base in 20 years. Will you be there?
Option 2 is more serviceable with a bracket holding the bottom of the post. However the law of leverage goes against sturdiness. Does Hydro do it with their poles?
My 4 X 4 posts were set in concrete without sono tubes. The drilled holes taper towards the bottom making the concrete carrot shaped. Some posts are OK but others popped.
The posts were set on the property line but the holes weren't laser located so the concrete doesn't encase them all the same. Some are great but others cracked.
As the posts rotted off at the surface level it was tricky pulling the concrete. Somehow you have to grab the concrete to pull it without breaking it up. I was trying to save the panels so moving the post wasn't an option. Dig down until you can pin the concrete and hoist away. Soaking the area to soften the soil helped.
Any jack can work but using a post jack saves a lot of Rube Goldberg devices.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I have a winch on my atv, I’ve pulled plenty of posts with it.
Another simple way to pull posts is to use your new post as a lever. Drill thru the old post you want to remove, put a ratchet strap or chain thru the hole and around the new post set perpendicular to the old post. Lever up, the post will come.
I have a double car garage door and am looking to add some rigid insulation to help out with insulation (apparently it's insulated also).
Thinking of installing 1" rigid insulation (R5) (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/du...-5-gps-rigid-insulation-foam-board/1001211234) and this would add about 21lbs or so and will need to confirm how many panels I'll need.
Anyone know if the springs would need to be adjusted for that additional weight?
Thinking of installing 1" rigid insulation (R5) (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/du...-5-gps-rigid-insulation-foam-board/1001211234) and this would add about 21lbs or so and will need to confirm how many panels I'll need.
Anyone know if the springs would need to be adjusted for that additional weight?
How's the balance now (ie how heavy does the door feel with the opener disconnected)? Adjusting springs is easy. Just move slowly and intentionally. I have some stainless rods that work perfectly or you can use 3/8" extensions from a socket set in a pinch. They don't fit quite as well but if you hold them in while applying pressure, they should never slip.
If I was going to this effort, I would probably use 2" and I would try very hard to minimize gaps. Missing a few percent can drastically reduce the effective insulation value. As I don't like exposed foam in a place with sparks/fire, covering the whole thing with a roll of foil faced insulation (ideally thin batt but bubble wrap type could work) protects the foam from fire and covers the inevitable gaps in insulation.
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I'll measure it all out this weekend, and the door is well balanced now. A few friends did spring installs / adjustments and they all same it's simple so long as you keep your wits about you and stay out of the line of fire (i.e.: directly in front of the adjustment part or spring).
It would be almost impossible to ensure all parts are insulated as the joints need free movement during open/close.
The spring is trapped on the shaft. The dangerous parts are the rods/wrenches that you temporarily attach. Like chuck keys in a lathe, pay attention to the application of torque and location of fingers or learn a lesson you won't forget. I normally setup a ladder and use the top of my shoulder or the wall as a stop for the rod so both hands can be free to tighten the jam screws. Having two rods speeds up the process greatly as you can do a bunch of adjustment with the screws loose (this also saves wear on the rod as digging screws in many times beats it up).
Will there be a geometry problem with rigid insulation at the panel hinges as they move around the curved track?
The springs have a lot of retained energy. Listen to oi oi oi. Easily a DIY job but not a hold my beer project.
I assume you have an opener. Does the weight affect any safety settings such as self retracting when hitting obstacles.
Insulation is funny stuff. It cuts off heat loss beautifully but gaps seem to negate a disproportionate amount of the good work.
1" has zero geometry problems as existing metal pans will be 1" or more. 2" could have some issues but it depends on how you install it. If you ran into geometry issues, trim the corner back a little with a knife to make the room you need.
Unless you do something obscene with weight, door weight is not really a factor for GDO. Springs cancel deadweight to within a few pounds. I am sure there is some ridiculous limit where the inertia of the door starts to cause issues but I can't see MP getting there. My old house had a wood/pressboard garage door that weighed many hundreds of pounds. MP will be a fraction of that when done.
Wow...so nice of @GreyGhost and @oioioi to offer and help me out with this when the time comes.
You guys are awesome!
You guys are awesome!
