Forced air heating does dry air and reduce humidity. Radiant no.
Dealing with humidity is a ***** in the north. Above 30 causes windows and doors to freeze shut, locks freeze, and a lot of mold issues in older houses. I have to dehumidify my place to keep things manageable.
Century old churches were never heated. The attendees kept their winter coats on and everything was fine.
Then they added heat and the rise in temperature lowered the relative humidity. Wooden objects warped and split. The snow melted off the roof and caused eaves and downspout issues. Leaky downspouts saturated walls causing deterioration.
Changed the anode rod in the hot water tank and it had styrofoam about 2” think that I had to dig out to get at the top of the rod. Is it worth it to buy spray foam and cover it again or is the plastic cap enough? Looks like they just encapsulate the tank in foam then put the metal cover around that.
Changed the anode rod in the hot water tank and it had styrofoam about 2” think that I had to dig out to get at the top of the rod. Is it worth it to buy spray foam and cover it again or is the plastic cap enough? Looks like they just encapsulate the tank in foam then put the metal cover around that.
It’s only a thermal insulation - anything will do. You can repack using the foam bits you dug out, shoot in spray foam, or use a small piece of fibreglass or Roxul.
The posts are rotted off or the concrete footings have broken up? I wouldn't be replacing 4x4 with 6x6 randomly. It will look like poo and you need to cut down the panels. If you want to start down that route, I would replace posts in a pattern so it looks intentional (corners and every other or every third post in between). That leaves you with good posts in the future if you want to replace panels and remaining posts.
At my old house with typical 4x4 in a concrete filled hole, the concrete shifted/broke apart. I made some wedges and pounded them in between the concrete and post and that was a good enough solution for more years.
The posts are rotted off or the concrete footings have broken up? I wouldn't be replacing 4x4 with 6x6 randomly. It will look like poo and you need to cut down the panels. If you want to start down that route, I would replace posts in a pattern so it looks intentional (corners and every other or every third post in between). That leaves you with good posts in the future if you want to replace panels and remaining posts.
At my old house with typical 4x4 in a concrete filled hole, the concrete shifted/broke apart. I made some wedges and pounded them in between the concrete and post and that was a good enough solution for more years.
The posts are rotted off or the concrete footings have broken up? I wouldn't be replacing 4x4 with 6x6 randomly. It will look like poo and you need to cut down the panels. If you want to start down that route, I would replace posts in a pattern so it looks intentional (corners and every other or every third post in between). That leaves you with good posts in the future if you want to replace panels and remaining posts.
At my old house with typical 4x4 in a concrete filled hole, the concrete shifted/broke apart. I made some wedges and pounded them in between the concrete and post and that was a good enough solution for more years.
I’d just replace the rotten posts with new 4x4 — that’s a 20 year solution and your fence won’t look like a Kevin build. It also preserves the existing panels and cuts the work to repair by a ton.
I bought a cheapie post hole digger off VEVOR last summer, it was under $300 with tax and works like a champ. I’ve punched about 40 holes so far, some thru tough clay. It was cheaper than the min callout for Mr Post Hole.
We had three rotted (at the base) 6X6 posts on our fence, they are in concrete. The neighbour found a company that repairs the posts with a metal bracket that goes into the ground. So far they are very solid and it beats digging out the concrete to put a new post in.
I replaced three 4X4s a couple of years ago I rigged up a jack to pull the cracked concrete out o two but the third hadn't cracked. I ground it flat on top, welded up a bracket and bolted in a stubby replacement.
Depending on when you plan on doing a complete new fence there are various crutches to stabilize the upper part of the existing posts.
My plan is to re-use the same holes that I pull the current posts out of. Unfortunately they are in concrete so breaking that apart takes the bulk of the time.
Thanks to GTAM the posts are coming out fairly easily...but I'll be buying one of those JEEP jacks that go high up in order to pull the posts.
I replaced three 4X4s a couple of years ago I rigged up a jack to pull the cracked concrete out o two but the third hadn't cracked. I ground it flat on top, welded up a bracket and bolted in a stubby replacement.
Depending on when you plan on doing a complete new fence there are various crutches to stabilize the upper part of the existing posts.
Have tried a handful of 'fixes' over the years...but it's just leaning more and more.
One of the main issues is the neighbour's hedge that is pushing against the fence but they're not responsive.
When I take the fence down, I'll make sure to trim their hedge so it doesn't continue doing it...I haven't found an effective way to kill their hedge yet from within my property line.
Have tried a handful of 'fixes' over the years...but it's just leaning more and more.
One of the main issues is the neighbour's hedge that is pushing against the fence but they're not responsive.
When I take the fence down, I'll make sure to trim their hedge so it doesn't continue doing it...I haven't found an effective way to kill their hedge yet from within my property line.
Most hedges are swamp or field cedars because they are cheap. The downside of the swamp cedars is that they grow like a bush and only look like hedges when crowded or trimmed into a hedge shape. Few people do it right and they widen out from a nice three feet to, in my case at least ten feet. Emerald cedars grow like pyramids and skybound ones look like giant corn cobs, just tapering at the tops. Both are far more expensive than the swamp ones.
If I did a full hedge and fence replacement the hedge, which is on my property, would be set back from a new fence by a foot and a half so it could be trimmed yearly by a skinny person.
The problem is the cost of a good looking privacy fence suggests they are made from Ducati parts.
My boundary sharing neighbor and I agree on the new fence and hedge combo but can't afford / justify the Ducati prices.
In the process of getting quotes for new eaves, soffits, facia. The handyman specials are on the end of their life. Just waiting to see some numbers but I already suspect it'll be the only project we do for 2026.
In the process of getting quotes for new eaves, soffits, facia. The handyman specials are on the end of their life. Just waiting to see some numbers but I already suspect it'll be the only project we do for 2026.
In the process of getting quotes for new eaves, soffits, facia. The handyman specials are on the end of their life. Just waiting to see some numbers but I already suspect it'll be the only project we do for 2026.
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