Forced air heating does dry air and reduce humidity. Radiant no.
Dealing with humidity is a ***** in the north. Above 30 causes windows and doors to freeze shut, locks freeze, and a lot of mold issues in older houses. I have to dehumidify my place to keep things manageable.
Century old churches were never heated. The attendees kept their winter coats on and everything was fine.
Then they added heat and the rise in temperature lowered the relative humidity. Wooden objects warped and split. The snow melted off the roof and caused eaves and downspout issues. Leaky downspouts saturated walls causing deterioration.
Changed the anode rod in the hot water tank and it had styrofoam about 2” think that I had to dig out to get at the top of the rod. Is it worth it to buy spray foam and cover it again or is the plastic cap enough? Looks like they just encapsulate the tank in foam then put the metal cover around that.
Changed the anode rod in the hot water tank and it had styrofoam about 2” think that I had to dig out to get at the top of the rod. Is it worth it to buy spray foam and cover it again or is the plastic cap enough? Looks like they just encapsulate the tank in foam then put the metal cover around that.
It’s only a thermal insulation - anything will do. You can repack using the foam bits you dug out, shoot in spray foam, or use a small piece of fibreglass or Roxul.
The posts are rotted off or the concrete footings have broken up? I wouldn't be replacing 4x4 with 6x6 randomly. It will look like poo and you need to cut down the panels. If you want to start down that route, I would replace posts in a pattern so it looks intentional (corners and every other or every third post in between). That leaves you with good posts in the future if you want to replace panels and remaining posts.
At my old house with typical 4x4 in a concrete filled hole, the concrete shifted/broke apart. I made some wedges and pounded them in between the concrete and post and that was a good enough solution for more years.
The posts are rotted off or the concrete footings have broken up? I wouldn't be replacing 4x4 with 6x6 randomly. It will look like poo and you need to cut down the panels. If you want to start down that route, I would replace posts in a pattern so it looks intentional (corners and every other or every third post in between). That leaves you with good posts in the future if you want to replace panels and remaining posts.
At my old house with typical 4x4 in a concrete filled hole, the concrete shifted/broke apart. I made some wedges and pounded them in between the concrete and post and that was a good enough solution for more years.
The posts are rotted off or the concrete footings have broken up? I wouldn't be replacing 4x4 with 6x6 randomly. It will look like poo and you need to cut down the panels. If you want to start down that route, I would replace posts in a pattern so it looks intentional (corners and every other or every third post in between). That leaves you with good posts in the future if you want to replace panels and remaining posts.
At my old house with typical 4x4 in a concrete filled hole, the concrete shifted/broke apart. I made some wedges and pounded them in between the concrete and post and that was a good enough solution for more years.
I’d just replace the rotten posts with new 4x4 — that’s a 20 year solution and your fence won’t look like a Kevin build. It also preserves the existing panels and cuts the work to repair by a ton.
I bought a cheapie post hole digger off VEVOR last summer, it was under $300 with tax and works like a champ. I’ve punched about 40 holes so far, some thru tough clay. It was cheaper than the min callout for Mr Post Hole.
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