First choice would be caulking.Recommendations on thisshow and how to fix this gap…
Second choice, 1/4" quarter round or some other trim, maybe even door stop used like a little baseboard...
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
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Second choice, 1/4" quarter round or some other trim, maybe even door stop used like a little baseboard...
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Use Pex. If I were in town I’d give you a hand, the tools are a bit pricy.
I have the poverty version with rings and manual crimper he can borrow. Not as good as expansion pex but good enough for the few times I needed it
I also have the poor man’s version , hand crimpers and bags of rings @Mimico is welcome to borrow.
This stuff has all come down in price lately for the basics kits . If you’re in the game you can spend thousands of electric crimpers and cutters and swedge enders , but nobody is paying me to do this stuff .
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This stuff has all come down in price lately for the basics kits . If you’re in the game you can spend thousands of electric crimpers and cutters and swedge enders , but nobody is paying me to do this stuff .
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
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Mad Mike
Well-known member
PexB. That works fine, it’s cheaper and you can get everything at Home Depot.
I use A, it’s a little more expensive but faster to install. Pex B uses a more fittings and creates more pressure drop than A or copper.
We had the whole house replumbed ( Kytec plumbing ) 6yrs ago . They used an electric crimper , not the expansion tools. They felt they liked the mechanical connection . I'd guess they had invested in all the tools and that was how they were taught. It has a lower flow rate than copper for sure , but not enough that i notice anything.
Thanks everyone for the offers and suggestions. There are only 2 water lines to replace if I can't fit the drywall behind the current copper lines. It's only for the washer/dryer and sink from the water tank.
My bigger concern is what to do with the ceiling, as covering it up will leave a 6ft ceiling at best.
Might just leave the work to installing the insulation, drywall, and a pony panel that I've got laying around for future upgrades to the house (and potential hot tub / pool).
My bigger concern is what to do with the ceiling, as covering it up will leave a 6ft ceiling at best.
Might just leave the work to installing the insulation, drywall, and a pony panel that I've got laying around for future upgrades to the house (and potential hot tub / pool).
My task this week is installing a new sink in the main bath vanity. It's part of the overall renovation, hopefully this summer. It may be a DIY if the contractors don't stop the BS.
One talked very nicely but the final quote was vague as to final costs and he ignored most of what we said we wanted. If they don't listen when they are trying to get the job, what's the chance of them listening after they get it?
One talked very nicely but the final quote was vague as to final costs and he ignored most of what we said we wanted. If they don't listen when they are trying to get the job, what's the chance of them listening after they get it?
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Ceiling needs to be at least 7' or it will feel awful. You could use low profile transfer ducts under the beam to get back a bunch of height. You can probably use the brake you already have and add tin-knocker to your list of skills.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
A lot lower flow than copper. Each Pex B fitting reduces flow by the same amount at 15’ of pipe. Pex A is full bore so fittings only add about 2’ of pipe loss, and you don’t need nearly as many fittings with A.
They are both dependable, life expectation exceeds copper.
I feel like I'm filling vanity/trim cracks with caulking every winter. Maybe using a humidifier during Jan-Feb would be the answer.
They didn't glue the joints. Very few do.
We have a humidifier. I don't use it often. If humidity goes over 50%, my windows start crying. If it's cold enough outside, it can happen down close to 30%. With no humidifier, my house runs in the low 30's.
Many people have a lot of plants in their homes, and will often think their windows are needing replacement when they're just crying / gathering water along the edges.
All the plant watering is usually a major source of humidity.
We have one small flower and one pot of basil right now. My wife is amazing at killing plants. I can look outside and see nature. I don't need the hassle of watering 100 pots.
I run a furnace humidifier and keep the house at thirty five percent in the winter . Gas fireplaces and gas furnace dries the place out . Trim stays tight , furnitures doesn’t crack and my windows get a wipe down daily . I’ll gladly deal with wet windows vs cracked veneer on tables .
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Properly vented high-efficiency gas furnace should not effect humidity as the combustion is closed loop using outdoor air. Many lazy installers don't bother with outdoor air intake and just put a grille over the intake. Any appliance that pushes conditioned air out lowers humidity in winter. That would include most fireplaces (some are sealed combustion with outdoor makeup air into fire box), most gas water heaters (are there on-demand heaters with sealed combustion?), exhaust fans, HRV, etc.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Forced air heating does dry air and reduce humidity. Radiant no.
Dealing with humidity is a ***** in the north. Above 30 causes windows and doors to freeze shut, locks freeze, and a lot of mold issues in older houses. I have to dehumidify my place to keep things manageable.
That explains a lot, my place is 99% pex b and flow is low, nothing earth shattering but low enough to notice when having a shower.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Common complaint, pex b can drop pressure 1-2psi thru every fitting. Between the main and shower head you have at least 5 fittings on each side (likely several more). That’s equal to adding about 80’ of pipe.
Simple improvements and checks: set your pump pressure switch to 40/60 (I see a lot at 30/50 - pex likes higher pressure than copper).
Check your pressure tank, make sure it’s not waterlogged.
Check water treatment gear to make sure they are not clogged.
