Doubly strange...I get an HD page but in NC and not an HD url.
Wont post the whole address just in case but I see a compactrentals dot com address
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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
Wont post the whole address just in case but I see a compactrentals dot com address
Giving shippsy a try. Ordered the hose bib, a Caleffi PRV and some isolation valves from the US.
Operation fix the water supply has commenced. We are on municipal water sourced from wells. 3/4" supply line at high pressure (70-90 psi), quite hard and high iron. I'll send out a sample soon to figure out actual numbers.
After the water meter, the plan is isolation valve (ball) as main shutoffs have a habit of failing, then PRV to drop to ~60 psi (may be raised once filter solution is determined), then 20" cartridge particulate filter, then likely iron filter (air injection). Bypass circuit around all the filters just in case there are issues. Branch off from to water softener headed to hot water tank. House wasn't plumbed well to easily split hard and soft cold water so I'll try leaving cold hard for now. Need to replace the anti-scald valve with one that works properly (enercare pricks installed one that requires 2 gpm to stabilize which doesn't bleeping work when most shower heads are 2 gpm total). Once I figure out how to get out of enercare contract for this bleeping tank, a heat pump hot water tank is going in. Enercare wants $1200 to buy out a tank that is almost garbage.
Operation fix the water supply has commenced. We are on municipal water sourced from wells. 3/4" supply line at high pressure (70-90 psi), quite hard and high iron. I'll send out a sample soon to figure out actual numbers.
After the water meter, the plan is isolation valve (ball) as main shutoffs have a habit of failing, then PRV to drop to ~60 psi (may be raised once filter solution is determined), then 20" cartridge particulate filter, then likely iron filter (air injection). Bypass circuit around all the filters just in case there are issues. Branch off from to water softener headed to hot water tank. House wasn't plumbed well to easily split hard and soft cold water so I'll try leaving cold hard for now. Need to replace the anti-scald valve with one that works properly (enercare pricks installed one that requires 2 gpm to stabilize which doesn't bleeping work when most shower heads are 2 gpm total). Once I figure out how to get out of enercare contract for this bleeping tank, a heat pump hot water tank is going in. Enercare wants $1200 to buy out a tank that is almost garbage.
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Pic updates please!
So…1/3 of the way in for the sonotube holes 2/6. Barely 18” deep. I figure this is still better than a deckblock at this point but I’m wondering if I can hammer a few bits of rebar into the bottom of the holes between the rocks for a bit more support or whether that’s a waste of time? Should I still try to pack an inch or so of crushed stone into the bottom of the hole or not bother?
Also have a large blister.
Edit: sonotube FAQ just states must be in contact with solid undisturbed soil. That’s what I have, scraping the bottom of the hole gets me a flat hard surface.
Edit2: how come none of the mafia films have an issue with digging holes for bodies? 2 twists of the auger…out comes the crowbar…dig for ages to get the rock out….2 more twists etc…
Also have a large blister.
Edit: sonotube FAQ just states must be in contact with solid undisturbed soil. That’s what I have, scraping the bottom of the hole gets me a flat hard surface.
Edit2: how come none of the mafia films have an issue with digging holes for bodies? 2 twists of the auger…out comes the crowbar…dig for ages to get the rock out….2 more twists etc…
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weight of shed is 500lbs, then there’s the weight of the frame so that’s 4 x 2x6x12 plus the joists inbetween. My fence was dug pretty deep in but they used a jackhammer.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Fence is different, you need to support a large lateral wind load so the posts must go deep else you fence blows over. The shed is a box, inherently strong based on it's cube construction. Depth for you is factored by the vertical forces, you need to get to undisturbed soil (to keep the shed from sinking), 4' deep (to keep the frost from lifting from the bottom). Bedrock trumps all - if it comes before reaching undisturbed soil or 4' you are golden.
Rebar is unnecessary unless your shed is so lightweight that you are worried the wind might move it. Should not be an issue for anything wood framed at 8x10 or bigger.
Thanks Mike…this is what I’m dealing with. Just levered this out the ground with a long steel bar and it took two of us to move it. It was plum in the middle of one hole. Guess I could have left it in but it was stopping me getting any deeper than 7-8”
I think a block away from us is an old quarry.
On the plus side I’m getting a free rock garden.
Rock are different than bed rock here if I dig a hole it is full of 14 to 20 inch rocks but there is no bedrock. Can't really do without a backhoe.
Sent using a thumb maybe 2
Here it’s mostly small stuff until I get a few feet down. Looks like the spot the shed needs to go in is a bit worse. It’s been a while since we dug up a boulder in the garden. Weird that it doesn’t seem to be all limestone like the rest of the rocks, this is pink with dark veins running through it and what looks like mica or crystals on the surface. We decided to use it in a flower bed when we can be bothered moving it again.
I picked up the tab to replace the columns supporting the porch roof of my daughter's house in Hamilton. After 85 +/- years they began to shift. Once the roof was supported with temporary bracing a light shove knocked the old brick columns down. They were sitting on a similar piece of rock a few inches down.
Replacement to code meant footings, block filled with concrete and rebar.
That’s a lot of vertical support there too. I think I’m going to be ok. Most holes are at 18” or more now with rock at the bottom. I’m belling out any shallow ones to add a mass of concrete laterally too. I might overengineer the frame so it’s more rigid than it needs to be too. The sonotubes are going to be level with the ground or maybe a cm or two just above. The brackets I have will keep the wood frame just off the soil and leave the shed with only a small step to the entrance. These beam brackets are adjustable too for any frost heave up to + or - 3”.
I assume the shed will be frame construction and frame takes a lot of flex. My last house had a frame car and a half garage sitting on a mud sill and is still there over 50 years later. In Toronto one didn't need a foundation for under 500 SF. My shed is on a floating concrete slab, over 30 years old and solid. Needs shingles next year.
It’s one of those Costco resin sheds. From the assembly video the walls are reinforced with metal struts. The pieces fit and click together like a plastic model in a pretty intricate way and are finished with screws for more security. There’s metal roof trusses and a snow load kit for this one too.
Hate to say this but you could have just poured a slab on grade and been fine for this level out the area for a slab and done.
Sent using a thumb maybe 2
Sent using a thumb maybe 2
My end quote for a slab was $2500, I’m doing this all in for at least 1k less.
Plus I get a shiny red concrete mixer out of it and I’ve already decided on another project. I have this crappy uneven paver patio outside our back room. There’s maybe 22 2x2 pavers on it and it’s always bugged me. I know there’s compacted crushed stone underneath them already so I figured I would advertise them on Kijiji free to anyone that wants to pick the pavers up (and remove them) then get some terracotta concrete pigment and pour myself a nice level patio. Just need to see what expansion joints to do and whether I should pattern the surface to make it look less like one big slab. Then, depending on how much that makes me swear I have an uneven paved passageway from the front to the back yard that could do with the same treatment. Walk before I can run though….pour the sonotubes first.
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