Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 112 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

mimico_polak said:
I thought the wrap has to be left in place forever with sonotubes?

How do you even get it off without digging all around the tube? If I’m missing something place let me know.
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With my last tube the top part pulled off like a banana peel.

There is, in some cases, a concern about concrete freezing to a surface and lifting the concrete object. The article i read some time ago dealt with concrete foundations that were heavily insulated on the inside. Certain soils will stick to the concrete and then frost can jack the foundation. Some heat loss through the wall can be beneficial in breaking the bond.

With a post or piller I wouldn't want it to shift sideways so tight soil contact would be my choice. For a foundation wall I would prefer loose gravel because the structure shouldn't be relying on side force to keep it from leaning. Most decks I imagine tie together with other elements. A fence post usually stands alone.
 
So my concrete pillars haven’t crumbled so onto the next step. Lumber. I sketched out the frame and wondered if 3x8ft 2x6 under each sheet of 4x8x3/4” plywood will be fine for the base? So the plywood sheets would be supported at every edge by 2x6 lumber and also down the length in the middle by 2x6. Is that going to be ok? If not I guess it’s only going to cost me another 3 pieces of lumber for the entire 12ft length of the frame (3x sheets of 4x8 plywood).
 
jc100 said:
So my concrete pillars haven’t crumbled so onto the next step. Lumber. I sketched out the frame and wondered if 3x8ft 2x6 under each sheet of 4x8x3/4” plywood will be fine for the base? So the plywood sheets would be supported at every edge by 2x6 lumber and also down the length in the middle by 2x6. Is that going to be ok? If not I guess it’s only going to cost me another 3 pieces of lumber for the entire 12ft length of the frame (3x sheets of 4x8 plywood).
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You want 2' spacing for floor joists using 2x6 spanning 8'? I wouldn't. It's probably fine but I rarely build a floor on anything over 16" OC. It makes for a much more solid feeling floor. I suspect you will feel the mush on 2' centers (and you are pushing the span table for overall deflection) I like flat floors, not bowls.

Are you using pressure treated plywood for the floor?
 
GreyGhost said:
You want 2' spacing for floor joists using 2x6 spanning 8'? I wouldn't. It's probably fine but I rarely build a floor on anything over 16" OC. It makes for a much more solid feeling floor. I suspect you will feel the mush on 2' centers (and you are pushing the span table for overall deflection) I like flat floors, not bowls.

Are you using pressure treated plywood for the floor?
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Yes. 3/4” thick PT plywood. Ok, I guess I only need to add 3 more 8ft pieces to get the joists in at 16” on centre for the entire 12ft deck.
 
timtune said:
Pro tip: When you cut the bottom (or top) off a hollow core door salvage the wooden strip inside and glue it back in.
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Learned that a long time ago. Those doors have been there close to 20 or more years.

The real LPT is to identify which door goes where. That’s the magic.
 

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jc100 said:
looks like this…that work?

View attachment 51529
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What is going on here? That's not exactly the plan I would have laid out. What is the overall size of this finished platform (8x12, 8'3"x12?)? I wouldn't do doubled joists at the sheet edges. Why do you have 10' joists? I am assuming you were planning on doing everything in 2x6? Why so many joist hangers? Installing joist hangers properly requires a doubled rim joist to accomodate the long diagonal nails (you may have that based on BOM). I am assuming the concrete piers are right at the corners? If not, what do the cantilevers look like? What do your saddles look like? I am assuming they want 3 or 4.5" of wood? Add PT schmoo to put on your cuts.
 
GreyGhost said:
What is going on here? That's not exactly the plan I would have laid out. What is the overall size of this finished platform (8x12, 8'3"x12?)? I wouldn't do doubled joists at the sheet edges. Why do you have 10' joists? I am assuming you were planning on doing everything in 2x6? Why so many joist hangers? Installing joist hangers properly requires a doubled rim joist to accomodate the long diagonal nails. I am assuming the concrete piers are right at the corners? If not, what do the cantilevers look like? What do your saddles look like? I am assuming they want 3 or 4.5" of wood? Add PT schmoo to put on your cuts.
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There’s 6 piers. 3 each side, as close to the corners as I can get plus the middle piers. The 2x6x12s are doubled up and fit in the saddle brackets on the piers. The overall depth is 8”3” as that gives me wriggle room to fit the plywood on and takes into account the doubled 12 footers. The length is 12ft so I don’t have to cut the lumber in that direction. This leaves me a small lip front to back and 1ft either side of the 8x10 shed. I figured doubled joists for the sheet edges so they have a decent 1.5” shelf to rest on otherwise each interior sheet edge would only have 3/4” of joist for support unlike the outside edges that will have 1.5”. I thought that sounded like too little.

10ft joists mean that I can use the cut offs for the horizontal stringers.
 
jc100 said:
There’s 6 piers. 3 each side, as close to the corners as I can get plus the middle piers. The 2x6x12s are doubled up and fit in the saddle brackets on the piers. The overall depth is 8”3” as that gives me wriggle room to fit the plywood on and takes into account the doubled 12 footers. The length is 12ft so I don’t have to cut the lumber in that direction. This leaves me a small lip front to back and 1ft either side of the 8x10 shed. I figured doubled joists for the sheet edges so they have a decent 1.5” shelf to rest on otherwise each interior sheet edge would only have 3/4” of joist for support unlike the outside edges that will have 1.5”. I thought that sounded like too little.

10ft joists mean that I can use the cut offs for the horizontal stringers.
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Got it. I would put joist tape over your 12' doubled joists so there isn't a constant flow of water into that crack. I would also probably shift the shed to one side so I have a 2' platform outside as that seems more useful than 2x1' platforms (obviously a personal choice, your plan works). I have never used joist hangers for blocking, I just toe nail it in.

With joists at 16" OC, I suspect you will find it more cost efficient to use 8' joists (3" cut required) and an extra board or two cut for blocking.
 
GreyGhost said:
Got it. I would put joist tape over your 12' doubled joists so there isn't a constant flow of water into that crack. I would also probably shift the shed to one side so I have a 2' platform outside as that seems more useful than 2x1' platforms (obviously a personal choice, your plan works). I have never used joist hangers for blocking, I just toe nail it in.

With joists at 16" OC, I suspect you will find it more cost efficient to use 8' joists (3" cut required) and an extra board or two cut for blocking.
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Never heard of joist tape, thanks for that tip!

I’m OCD with symmetry but I’ll chat to the chief garden architect about 2ft vs 1ft at the sides. I can see that being more useful.
 
waste of good tape I say.......

whatever works - or saves you a headache later
 
This DIY thing isn’t bad….just bought all the lumber and hardware for my frame and rented a van to get it all home. About $700 and change. Add in a concrete mixer, brackets, concrete and sonotubes and I’m at about $1400 total. I get the satisfaction of picking my own lumber and learning new stuff and also knowing that any screw ups are mine and any successes are also mine. For ***** and giggles I might even rout the edges of the frame so the dogs and wife don’t get caught on sharp angles. We did have a guy lined up to assemble the shed at $40 an hour but I might do that myself too.

This shed is going to be about 6-7” off the ground at entrance level though so I need to sort out an easy short ramp too.
 
mimico_polak said:
That is exactly what it is. Vent tube from the dryer. I have no effing clue why Kevin moved that wall…and I’m not ripping it out to find out.

Ignorance is bliss as they say.
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Kevin may have moved next door to my daughter in Hamilton. The couple that just bought the house have had the eaves rerouted to spill on the city sidewalk and will be a slip / fall hazard come winter.

She just texted me that they have now ripped the floor boards off the front porch and are replacing them with 5/16" T&G rustic pine typically used for wainscoting.

Is there a scam where you make money by having people sue you for falls etc?
 
@ JC100 , if your going to have a 'ledge' around your shed , or one side, make sure that platform is balls on level , you do not want snow and rain draining into the building. Caulk the heck out of the wall bottom plate and use a wide flashing to encourage the water away.
 
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