What did you do in your garage today..?

That is. Very good question….

This is what they look like brand new. Confirmed not under warranty as they’re ’wear and tear’ under Fords conditions…

View attachment 75828
Wtf how they should be fixed solid and not moving and they don't look rusted.. I wonder if the bolts have a shoulder and they don't hold them steady. The ones on my truck are 11 years old and have no movement or rounding of the holes just a bit of rust.

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Wtf how they should be fixed solid and not moving and they don't look rusted.. I wonder if the bolts have a shoulder and they don't hold them steady. The ones on my truck are 11 years old and have no movement or rounding of the holes just a bit of rust.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
I was playing around trying to put the truck brakes into service mode…but couldn’t do it and in the end they just came off the hub…

I’m just shocked both failed simultaneously. That’s the most perplexing part.
 
I was playing around trying to put the truck brakes into service mode…but couldn’t do it and in the end they just came off the hub…

I’m just shocked both failed simultaneously. That’s the most perplexing part.
is this your first Ford?

I just scrapped a 2012 e250 with 108k on the clock. Too rusty to fix. My son’s 2013 F250 work truck has62k on the clock, cab corners footwell and both rear fender arches are approaching irreparability, had to replace tailgate as it was shot, and it’s already broken leaf springs twice.

Luckily they both have truck motors so neither had their engines grenade from turbo or phaser failures.

My 1976 Pinto turned into a pile of iron oxide by 1980 - haven’t owned a Ford since then.
 
Oil spray is the remedy. My 2008 F150 is still going strong at 250K km. She has a few scabs now after 17 winters, but the frame still looks like new with the original black paint on it, and the tailgate looks like new. I just changed the oil (it doesn't burn any) to get it ready for another winter. The 1990 I had before that lasted me 19 years before I sold it. It still had a lot of life left in it, with oil spray every year and a straight 6 that pulled like a tractor. Both with 5 speed manual overdrive transmissions.
 
is this your first Ford?

I just scrapped a 2012 e250 with 108k on the clock. Too rusty to fix. My son’s 2013 F250 work truck has62k on the clock, cab corners footwell and both rear fender arches are approaching irreparability, had to replace tailgate as it was shot, and it’s already broken leaf springs twice.

Luckily they both have truck motors so neither had their engines grenade from turbo or phaser failures.

My 1976 Pinto turned into a pile of iron oxide by 1980 - haven’t owned a Ford since then.
We had a name for Mustangs when we were kids in high school, we use to call them Rustangs. Cars were not built for our climate back then. You would be lucky to get 5 Toronto winters out of those cars in the ‘60’s and 70’s. Fortunately they were cheap relative to income back then.
 
We had a name for Mustangs when we were kids in high school, we use to call them Rustangs. Cars were not built for our climate back then. You would be lucky to get 5 Toronto winters out of those cars in the ‘60’s and 70’s. Fortunately they were cheap relative to income back then.

"Ironic", considering they were built in Detroit.
 
Oil spray is the remedy. My 2008 F150 is still going strong at 250K km. She has a few scabs now after 17 winters, but the frame still looks like new with the original black paint on it, and the tailgate looks like new. I just changed the oil (it doesn't burn any) to get it ready for another winter. The 1990 I had before that lasted me 19 years before I sold it. It still had a lot of life left in it, with oil spray every year and a straight 6 that pulled like a tractor. Both with 5 speed manual overdrive transmissions.
I'm a big fan of getting my vehicles oil sprayed the only big downside doing any sort of undercarriage service after getting the treatment.
Messy work is a serious understatement.
 
I'm a big fan of getting my vehicles oil sprayed the only big downside doing any sort of undercarriage service after getting the treatment.
Messy work is a serious understatement.
Use Krown. The use a cosmolene-like product, it doesn’t drip on your driveway, grit up your undercarriage, or creep out to your body panels.

Costs about $120/year for a refresh. The body on my 15 Year old Commander looks new - not a spec of rust anywhere.
 
Use Krown. The use a cosmolene-like product, it doesn’t drip on your driveway, grit up your undercarriage, or creep out to your body panels.

Costs about $120/year for a refresh. The body on my 15 Year old Commander looks new - not a spec of rust anywhere.
Not always. We used Krown for the wife's Odyssey last year and it dripped on the garage floor for days. 25min drive home from Krown, parked in garage, wiped up floor the next day, wife ran errands in van and came back and there were more puddles the following day. I'm guessing it was sprayed in large doses in some spots and it would run out, then slosh around when van was moved causing it to run out again when parked. I'm not complaining, I'm just happy it was given a great coat. Will keep using them annually for both vehicles.
Used a different place previously and it never dripped (Bob's Oil in Bowmanville) but they're just a bit too far now.
 
Not always. We used Krown for the wife's Odyssey last year and it dripped on the garage floor for days. 25min drive home from Krown, parked in garage, wiped up floor the next day, wife ran errands in van and came back and there were more puddles the following day. I'm guessing it was sprayed in large doses in some spots and it would run out, then slosh around when van was moved causing it to run out again when parked. I'm not complaining, I'm just happy it was given a great coat. Will keep using them annually for both vehicles.
Used a different place previously and it never dripped (Bob's Oil in Bowmanville) but they're just a bit too far now.

Similar experience with krown this year, turned the driveway in an absolute disaster.
 
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