What did you do in your garage today..?

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mimico_polak said:
That is. Very good question….

This is what they look like brand new. Confirmed not under warranty as they’re ’wear and tear’ under Fords conditions…

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Wtf how they should be fixed solid and not moving and they don't look rusted.. I wonder if the bolts have a shoulder and they don't hold them steady. The ones on my truck are 11 years old and have no movement or rounding of the holes just a bit of rust.

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Scuba Steve said:
Wtf how they should be fixed solid and not moving and they don't look rusted.. I wonder if the bolts have a shoulder and they don't hold them steady. The ones on my truck are 11 years old and have no movement or rounding of the holes just a bit of rust.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
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I was playing around trying to put the truck brakes into service mode…but couldn’t do it and in the end they just came off the hub…

I’m just shocked both failed simultaneously. That’s the most perplexing part.
 
mimico_polak said:
I was playing around trying to put the truck brakes into service mode…but couldn’t do it and in the end they just came off the hub…

I’m just shocked both failed simultaneously. That’s the most perplexing part.
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is this your first Ford?

I just scrapped a 2012 e250 with 108k on the clock. Too rusty to fix. My son’s 2013 F250 work truck has62k on the clock, cab corners footwell and both rear fender arches are approaching irreparability, had to replace tailgate as it was shot, and it’s already broken leaf springs twice.

Luckily they both have truck motors so neither had their engines grenade from turbo or phaser failures.

My 1976 Pinto turned into a pile of iron oxide by 1980 - haven’t owned a Ford since then.
 
Oil spray is the remedy. My 2008 F150 is still going strong at 250K km. She has a few scabs now after 17 winters, but the frame still looks like new with the original black paint on it, and the tailgate looks like new. I just changed the oil (it doesn't burn any) to get it ready for another winter. The 1990 I had before that lasted me 19 years before I sold it. It still had a lot of life left in it, with oil spray every year and a straight 6 that pulled like a tractor. Both with 5 speed manual overdrive transmissions.
 
Mad Mike said:
is this your first Ford?

I just scrapped a 2012 e250 with 108k on the clock. Too rusty to fix. My son’s 2013 F250 work truck has62k on the clock, cab corners footwell and both rear fender arches are approaching irreparability, had to replace tailgate as it was shot, and it’s already broken leaf springs twice.

Luckily they both have truck motors so neither had their engines grenade from turbo or phaser failures.

My 1976 Pinto turned into a pile of iron oxide by 1980 - haven’t owned a Ford since then.
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We had a name for Mustangs when we were kids in high school, we use to call them Rustangs. Cars were not built for our climate back then. You would be lucky to get 5 Toronto winters out of those cars in the ‘60’s and 70’s. Fortunately they were cheap relative to income back then.
 
Bobo said:
We had a name for Mustangs when we were kids in high school, we use to call them Rustangs. Cars were not built for our climate back then. You would be lucky to get 5 Toronto winters out of those cars in the ‘60’s and 70’s. Fortunately they were cheap relative to income back then.
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"Ironic", considering they were built in Detroit.
 
85K100 said:
Oil spray is the remedy. My 2008 F150 is still going strong at 250K km. She has a few scabs now after 17 winters, but the frame still looks like new with the original black paint on it, and the tailgate looks like new. I just changed the oil (it doesn't burn any) to get it ready for another winter. The 1990 I had before that lasted me 19 years before I sold it. It still had a lot of life left in it, with oil spray every year and a straight 6 that pulled like a tractor. Both with 5 speed manual overdrive transmissions.
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I'm a big fan of getting my vehicles oil sprayed the only big downside doing any sort of undercarriage service after getting the treatment.
Messy work is a serious understatement.
 
Dirty Frank said:
I'm a big fan of getting my vehicles oil sprayed the only big downside doing any sort of undercarriage service after getting the treatment.
Messy work is a serious understatement.
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Use Krown. The use a cosmolene-like product, it doesn’t drip on your driveway, grit up your undercarriage, or creep out to your body panels.

Costs about $120/year for a refresh. The body on my 15 Year old Commander looks new - not a spec of rust anywhere.
 
Mad Mike said:
Use Krown. The use a cosmolene-like product, it doesn’t drip on your driveway, grit up your undercarriage, or creep out to your body panels.

Costs about $120/year for a refresh. The body on my 15 Year old Commander looks new - not a spec of rust anywhere.
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Not always. We used Krown for the wife's Odyssey last year and it dripped on the garage floor for days. 25min drive home from Krown, parked in garage, wiped up floor the next day, wife ran errands in van and came back and there were more puddles the following day. I'm guessing it was sprayed in large doses in some spots and it would run out, then slosh around when van was moved causing it to run out again when parked. I'm not complaining, I'm just happy it was given a great coat. Will keep using them annually for both vehicles.
Used a different place previously and it never dripped (Bob's Oil in Bowmanville) but they're just a bit too far now.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Not always. We used Krown for the wife's Odyssey last year and it dripped on the garage floor for days. 25min drive home from Krown, parked in garage, wiped up floor the next day, wife ran errands in van and came back and there were more puddles the following day. I'm guessing it was sprayed in large doses in some spots and it would run out, then slosh around when van was moved causing it to run out again when parked. I'm not complaining, I'm just happy it was given a great coat. Will keep using them annually for both vehicles.
Used a different place previously and it never dripped (Bob's Oil in Bowmanville) but they're just a bit too far now.
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Similar experience with krown this year, turned the driveway in an absolute disaster.
 
Anybody know how to properly use FORSCAN in the Mississauga / West End area?

My Maverick came with 225/60-18 tires and I replaced them with 235/50-18, a 4.5% decrease in overall rolling circumference. But this means both my speedo and my odo are off by 4.5% +/-.

I was able to get the BCM to recognize the new tire diameter, but can't figure out how to force the other affected modules (ABS / PCM) and it's causing my AWD error to pop up.

I returned the diameter back to the original so they don't get confused with 2 different numbers floating around...2238mm v 2174mm (new), but would like to get that fixed as it's annoying.
 
Mad Mike said:
Use Krown. The use a cosmolene-like product, it doesn’t drip on your driveway, grit up your undercarriage, or creep out to your body panels.

Costs about $120/year for a refresh. The body on my 15 Year old Commander looks new - not a spec of rust anywhere.
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Or just buy a Toyota and leave it outside.
I think half of the rust problem is bringing your salt and snow encrusted vehicle into the nice warm garage so the giant salt-sicles can melt into a nice salty brine that can then seep into every seam, nook and cranny.

My 12 year old Matrix has no visible rust. My buddies garage kept 7 year old Ram is bubbling around the wheel wells.
 
mimico_polak said:
Anybody know how to properly use FORSCAN in the Mississauga / West End area?

My Maverick came with 225/60-18 tires and I replaced them with 235/50-18, a 4.5% decrease in overall rolling circumference. But this means both my speedo and my odo are off by 4.5% +/-.

I was able to get the BCM to recognize the new tire diameter, but can't figure out how to force the other affected modules (ABS / PCM) and it's causing my AWD error to pop up.

I returned the diameter back to the original so they don't get confused with 2 different numbers floating around...2238mm v 2174mm (new), but would like to get that fixed as it's annoying.
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I have used it. There are plenty of FAQs and videos for F150 use. Maybe some would translate for Mavericks? I've done some small stuff like change the timeout time on power when I turn off the truck so I can leave things plugged in without them draining the battery now. I think I just followed some video. Any luck on YouTube?
 
adri said:
I have used it. There are plenty of FAQs and videos for F150 use. Maybe some would translate for Mavericks? I've done some small stuff like change the timeout time on power when I turn off the truck so I can leave things plugged in without them draining the battery now. I think I just followed some video. Any luck on YouTube?
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Followed a few YT videos but couldn't find something for specifically ensuring that the additional modules read the updated tire size.

Will continue looking but MOST of the F150 should transfer over...most of it I hope.
 
mimico_polak said:
Followed a few YT videos but couldn't find something for specifically ensuring that the additional modules read the updated tire size.

Will continue looking but MOST of the F150 should transfer over...most of it I hope.
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Since the Maverick shares a platform with the Escape, maybe worth looking to see if anyone has had success with it rather than the F150?
 
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