Day 19 Route (I actually did many more backroads than shown here, but this is all Google Maps will allow in one route, so more detailed links are below):
Richmond to Richmond
After going back and forth about what to do, I decided to head back over to the island, but this time on my bike and explore the Port Renfrew loop. I had read that the coastal ride near Port Renfrew was remarkable and when I looked into it further it also seemed that there was quite a few backroads worth checking out, which actually turned out to be some of the best roads I have hit up on the entire trip.
Since I'm heading back home tomorrow, I have to be back at my sisters place for dinner so we can have a nice last night together. I have to catch the 7am ferry out of Richmond, which is pretty awesome, because I get to do a sunrise ferry after doing the sunset ferry last night. And the sunrise did not disappoint!
There were only two other bikes on the ferry. I think one of the bikes was a DR650 and the other was a Fireblade. The guy on the DR650 was there for work and we didn't talk much. The guy on the blade was named Dean and an elevator technician who was going to spend a few days of aimless riding around the island. We spent pretty much the whole 90 minutes chatting about bikes and trips and stuff. Very nice guy!
The ferry docks and we ride off. As part of this ride I want to spend as little time as possible on the main roads. Using the Destination Highways BC maps, I find out that there are some
backroads worth checking out very close to Victoria and right on the way to and from the ferry terminal. Turns out that it was pretty cold and wet in the morning and it didn't seem like a good idea to push it on these roads. Some of them were pretty tight and technical, so I decided to ride them nicely and then try them out again on my way home when it was much warmer out.
Somewhere along the way I pass this road which can only be a good omen of things to come:
To make my way over to Lake Cowichan I also read about a
bunch of other decent backroads, so I check them all out too. All of them were quite nice and much more interesting than taking the highway.
Once I headed south from Lake Cowichan the road gets petty tight, there is no centreline and it's quite bumpy in the turns. There was also pretty much zero traffic on this road and often the GPS and me cell would both lose all signals. It was a nice ride to see all the logging that had been done over the years and there were many dead trees standing - perhaps from the pine beetle or something else:
I make my way south to Port Renfrew and stop to take this mandatory picture and as I do so this guy photobombed my moment. I would pass him about 5 more times and he would catch up to me every time I stopped for a picture:
Instead of staying in the town and checking things out there, I want to make my way over to the Pacific Rim Park and check out the water views and the beaches. By now the elevation has increased significantly, so the faint outlines of mountains in the distance and views of the water are incredible down below:
I had read that pretty much where this picture above was taken, there is a hiking trail along the waters edge which spans many kilometres. I think it was called the Juan de Fuca trail, located in the Juan de Fuca Provincial Park, along the Juan de Fuca Strait. I see a beach called China Beach and think this must be a good place to see the water. I head down and they had this interesting sign showing the expanse of the hiking trail, which seems to be pretty challenging in some areas:
Another vista of a beautiful beach awaits with more terrific trees. It was about 30deg out now and I walk the 500m down the hill in my full gear which was pretty easy. It wasn't so pleasant coming back up however, but I did find some amazing beach pebbles to take home which made it all worthwhile. As you walk out to China Beach:
This was a pretty quiet beach!
No shortage of big trees at the waters edge to the rainforest:
All these frequent stops are making me feel like I'm going get late for dinner. I decide to pick up the pace and just as I do so, I'm being asked to go slow. Shirley you can't be serious.
As I come into the town of Sooke, I decide to check out some more backroads.
If you are ever in the area make sure you check these out. They are flat out awesome. Amazing pavement, tight turns, nice scenery and no traffic.
As I head back north towards the ferry terminal I have the chance to again ride the backroads I started the day off with. By now the temps are around 33 and the tires are sticking like glue. It also helps that have left all my gear at home so the bike is riding quite nice. I only keep the side cases on to make me appear like gentleman. I really liked Munn Road and one of my favourite roads on this entire trip was Finlayson Arm Road. It's short, very narrow, has many blind corners and extremely steep hills, so I did most of the road in first gear!
As I make my way back to the ferry I pass a sign saying that the world famous Butchart Gardens are only 2km away. Being someone who likes plants, I decide to check it out since I know many gardeners who praise this place. It means I miss the ferry and will be getting home a bit later, but it would be pretty dumb for someone like me who worked as a gardener for 15 years not make a little time to see this place. It was incredible and I will go back!
I catch the 5pm ferry which will have me back for 7pm dinner. I'm also the only bike on the boat this time so it gives me a chance to take in what an amazing day I just had. In case you didn't know, these big ferries don't require the bikes to be tied down, since the boats are very large, slow and gentle. Just put the kickstand down and if you want you can take a tiered block and wedge it on the opposite side of the bike like I have done here.
Tomorrow I say goodbye to my sis and start my slow journey home with an opportunity to ride the southern interior of BC!