Oil change before or after winter ????? | Page 4 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Oil change before or after winter ?????

dricked said:
The % of acid that would be left though would be minimal as compared to the old oil. I change my oil every 1000km or untill it doesn't shift nice, and before winter.
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Wow, that's way too overkill. Read your owner book. For my first bike, Kawasaki ex650r 2007, oil change was every 12 000km. If they say that, it's because its safe to do. I was doing it every 7 000km.

Are you changing your car oil every 1000km also?
 
vince492 said:
Wow, that's way too overkill. Read your owner book. For my first bike, Kawasaki ex650r 2007, oil change was every 12 000km. If they say that, it's because its safe to do. I was doing it every 7 000km.

Are you changing your car oil every 1000km also?
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Nope my car gets changed around 5000km with a full synthetic. I know its overkill but this is a personal prefrence. I find the bike shifts more smoothly so again for the one or two extra oil changes a season it's worth it to me. If I waited till 5000km it would take me the whole season depending on how much time I get in and again it would still get changed at the end of the year.

Compairing your 650r to my zx10 for maintanince is not a relative compairison

I hope you change your in your track bike more frequently than every 5000km or whatever your manual says.
 
I haven't read both manuals but considering ones a superbike and the other is more of a tame beginners bike they would more than likely have very different service scheduals.
 
vince492 said:
Wow, that's way too overkill. Read your owner book. For my first bike, Kawasaki ex650r 2007, oil change was every 12 000km. If they say that, it's because its safe to do. I was doing it every 7 000km.

Are you changing your car oil every 1000km also?
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If he was taking his car to the track, I would expect he'd change his cage oil a little more frequently too. Can't use the manual when it comes to the track. When a bike is used under these extreme conditions, it would require service intervals we'd never see.

Or maybe I'm making an incorrect assumption..............
 
I've restored many bikes over the years. Several had been stored outside with old oil in the engine and I have never seen corrosion in the crankcase. The only place I have seen corrosion is in the cylinders and valves. For the most part this whole oil debate is a waste of time. The areas I have seen damage from storage are:

Frozen batteries.
Rust in cylinders and valves.
Blocked carburetors from fuel residue.
Rusted gas tanks.
Rusted fork tubes and shocks.

The worst thing for the bike is temperature changes. When the air temperature increases condensation forms on cold surfaces. This is bad for chrome and any other unprotected surfaces. It wont effect internal engine parts that are coated with oil, but can cause rust in cylinders.

If you do nothing else, charge the battery and fill the fuel tank. Starting the engine every now and then won't cause any problems as long as the bike gets up to operating temperature. The benefit is it will prevent rust in the cylinders and it gets rid of any stale fuel in the carburetors or injectors.

Starting the bike for a few minutes and then shutting it off again before it warms up will put moisture in the exhaust and discharge the battery.
 
fastar1 said:
Ride down to Florida. Skip winter, avoid this oil change controversy.
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dont forget to open up the oil fill tube when you get there. you have to let in the warm florida air, otherwise the contaminated cold air will continue to turn oil into acid in just weeks.

brianZ said:
I've restored many bikes over the years. Several had been stored outside with old oil in the engine and I have never seen corrosion in the crankcase. The only place I have seen corrosion is in the cylinders and valves. For the most part this whole oil debate is a waste of time. The areas I have seen damage from storage are:

Frozen batteries.
Rust in cylinders and valves.
Blocked carburetors from fuel residue.
Rusted gas tanks.
Rusted fork tubes and shocks.

The worst thing for the bike is temperature changes. When the air temperature increases condensation forms on cold surfaces. This is bad for chrome and any other unprotected surfaces. It wont effect internal engine parts that are coated with oil, but can cause rust in cylinders.

If you do nothing else, charge the battery and fill the fuel tank. Starting the engine every now and then won't cause any problems as long as the bike gets up to operating temperature. The benefit is it will prevent rust in the cylinders and it gets rid of any stale fuel in the carburetors or injectors.

Starting the bike for a few minutes and then shutting it off again before it warms up will put moisture in the exhaust and discharge the battery.
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I wholeheartedly support this man's argument.

although my experience with bikes is limited to my own, i have opened up countless automotive engines at work, whether they be diesel or gas. Some of these things date back to the 1950's, have sat for years, and i have yet to see a crank case (which had oil inside) that was full of corrosion due to acid. sure, scientifically, acid will form, but the amount over a few weeks will be so minute, that its effects will be negligible.
 
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Why bother keeping dirty oil in it? I change it before storage, so I'm ready to go when it stops snowing. Most ppl don't get it up to operating temps during storage, so why bother risking condensation...just let her sleep.
 
My 2 cents (not needed but am bored). I apprenticed years ago in a performance engine building shop. A customer brought in a 1970 Nova with 36,000 original miles. The motor was toast. The lady who owned it only drove to and from the grocery store, and the engine rarely was worked to full operating temperature. Condensation killed it. Question for the more knowledgeable guys, does the acidic equation apply to full synthetics?
 
uniongoon said:
My 2 cents (not needed but am bored). I apprenticed years ago in a performance engine building shop. A customer brought in a 1970 Nova with 36,000 original miles. The motor was toast. The lady who owned it only drove to and from the grocery store, and the engine rarely was worked to full operating temperature. Condensation killed it. Question for the more knowledgeable guys, does the acidic equation apply to full synthetics?
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A lady who only drove her ancient 1970 Nova to and from the grocery store brought it to a performance engine building shop?!?! She must sure be in a hurry for her groceries!!!
 
Burn lol
Xhumeka said:
A lady who only drove her ancient 1970 Nova to and from the grocery store brought it to a performance engine building shop?!?! She must sure be in a hurry for her groceries!!!
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uniongoon said:
My 2 cents (not needed but am bored). I apprenticed years ago in a performance engine building shop. A customer brought in a 1970 Nova with 36,000 original miles. The motor was toast. The lady who owned it only drove to and from the grocery store, and the engine rarely was worked to full operating temperature. Condensation killed it. Question for the more knowledgeable guys, does the acidic equation apply to full synthetics?
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I think kneedragger may have covered acid on page one, the acids are from crap that blows by during the combustion process and builds up in the oil. It will accumulate in synthetic oil also.

Folks, just change to fresh oil and put the bike away. Next spring check the level before you start it and have a nice spring.
 
Ice Pic said:
(41 + 8 /4 + (2+3*4)^2 - 3^4 + (9+10)(15-21) + 7(17-15) = 23

:)
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Nerd alert... Ice Pic, since you got wrong answer here ^^^ (it is 58 and NOT 23) I would assume your advice here is not worth all that much :) Everyone - just to the opposite of what he says :)
 
derekz said:
Nerd alert... Ice Pic, since you got wrong answer here ^^^ (it is 58 and NOT 23) I would assume your advice here is not worth all that much :) Everyone - just to the opposite of what he says :)
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Well, it's pretty close in base 27.
 
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