I'll hold the camera, you hold the rods. Adds another skill to you aresenal. I think my good rods are at my parents. I'll need to grab them next time I'm down.
Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
NP.
I have dome mine several times.
Installed my side mounted openers myself.
You and GG can hold my beer.
I’m overdue for some new batch of limoncello and grapefrucello…
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I think you miscalculated a typical r5 4x8 sheet of 1” eps weighs 1.5 lbs. I doubt your adding 14 sheets to each door!
I thought so too….but spec sheet calls it 7.73lbs…
Mind you there’s also a 2.91lbs in the same spec sheet…
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I deal with that stuff every day. I can lift a 48sheet bundle into my truck solo - trust me, it’s 1.5lbs/sheet.
Way up north we insulate everything. The biggest gain on your doors will be eliminating air leakage (seals). 50-80% of your heat loss is usually air leakage - it’s more efficient to seal than upping the insulation. If you don’t seal air leakage, no amount of insulation will save energy or increase comfort.
A double bulb bottom seal, good new style vertical vinyl wiper seals and a fresh top seal is your best bang for the buck. Sometimes tracks need slight adjustments to bring the panels close to the jams - should be a uniform 1/8” between panel and jam on a steel door.
Thanks! Biggest gap I see is around the entrance door which I can’t seem to plug up properly.
Can see air through there before, so I installed seals and still seeing some lighter parts.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Steel man door? These bend and become flexible over time making them hard to seal, it’s usually the bottom that bends outward causing leakage at the part under the door knob and along the threshold.
It happens when obstacles (snow, ice, cords) get slammed by the door. The door bends or twists.
You can fix some of it with spring seals, but the best solution is a new door.
Keep your eyes on this channel, I’m replacing my worn out side door this week, I’ll try to remember to take a few pics.
That looks like the hundred buck builder special . They make those with a two by two lumber frame inside and a sheet of styrofoam , they put some adhesive on the metal skins so the stick to the foam and make an assembly. The gauge of metal is one step up from a beer can. As mike said , they rack when snow or ice gets on the bottom and the door gets slammed to close .
Easy short term fix is put a two by four in the top corner of the door and push closed to reverse the twist . This is easier than you think so push gently so you don’t go too far the wrong way . After straight comes F’ed . Gently.
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Easy short term fix is put a two by four in the top corner of the door and push closed to reverse the twist . This is easier than you think so push gently so you don’t go too far the wrong way . After straight comes F’ed . Gently.
Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Ok will give that a try. The largest gap was on the left vertical side where we added seals to try and close it up. Still can see some light shine through but it's more of the light going through the seal.
I'll measure it out today after work and look at options or hope Mike has a door that fits the gap as I don't want to start enlarging the space.
Would those drop down heavy duty plastic strips help to keep the cold out if I install them over the frame? My ESL isn't helping me this morning with finding the word...vinyl strips!
Low Temp Vinyl Strip Door Kit - 3 x 7' H-3201 - ULINE
Maintain temperatures in coolers, freezers and USDA-inspected facilities while keeping out dust and noise. Nylon-reinforced PVC vinyl stays flexible down to -29°C (-20°F) . Includes an aluminum bolt-on mounting bracket. ULINE offers over 43,000 boxes, plastic poly bags, mailing tubes, warehouse...
www.uline.ca
Anything you do helps but the cost effectiveness is the issue.Ok will give that a try. The largest gap was on the left vertical side where we added seals to try and close it up. Still can see some light shine through but it's more of the light going through the seal.
I'll measure it out today after work and look at options or hope Mike has a door that fits the gap as I don't want to start enlarging the space.
Would those drop down heavy duty plastic strips help to keep the cold out if I install them over the frame? My ESL isn't helping me this morning with finding the word...vinyl strips!
Low Temp Vinyl Strip Door Kit - 3 x 7' H-3201 - ULINE
Maintain temperatures in coolers, freezers and USDA-inspected facilities while keeping out dust and noise. Nylon-reinforced PVC vinyl stays flexible down to -29°C (-20°F) . Includes an aluminum bolt-on mounting bracket. ULINE offers over 43,000 boxes, plastic poly bags, mailing tubes, warehouse...
You can add various types of weather stripping, automatic door bottoms, drapery, etc but sometimes doing it right is long term cheaper.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Straightening the door is a quick fix, but also a short fix -- it will go back to twisted fairly quickly -- once you stretch the sheet metal skin the door wil lose it's stiffness.Ok will give that a try. The largest gap was on the left vertical side where we added seals to try and close it up. Still can see some light shine through but it's more of the light going through the seal.
I'll measure it out today after work and look at options or hope Mike has a door that fits the gap as I don't want to start enlarging the space.
Would those drop down heavy duty plastic strips help to keep the cold out if I install them over the frame? My ESL isn't helping me this morning with finding the word...vinyl strips!
Low Temp Vinyl Strip Door Kit - 3 x 7' H-3201 - ULINE
Maintain temperatures in coolers, freezers and USDA-inspected facilities while keeping out dust and noise. Nylon-reinforced PVC vinyl stays flexible down to -29°C (-20°F) . Includes an aluminum bolt-on mounting bracket. ULINE offers over 43,000 boxes, plastic poly bags, mailing tubes, warehouse...
The best solution is to replace the door. Sadly, the $100 builders door of yesteryear will be $450 after tax today You can occasionally find slabs, but usually it's the same cost to get a pre-hung replacement.
Tip: If you can fit a 36x80, you'll save -- they're always on the clearance racks, but not many other sizes.
Secret: Rona operates their national clearance center at McCowan Rd just north of Hwy 7. They occasionally have some killer deals -- I mean killer. Since Christmase, here's a lost of deals I picked up:
MAAX 3 pc fiberglass bathtub, $109, regular $1200
MAAX 45" (huge) square glass shower kit (base, walls and glass) $100, regular $1400
2 x 32" steel entrance doors with opening windows, $149, regular $750
2 x 32" fiberglass woodgrain entrance doors with opening windows, $299, regular $1600
72" patio door with integrated venetians $615, regular $1800
16 Luxart 36" vanities with quartz tops $199 each, regular $800
They don't always have killer deals, but when they get a big shipment sof flooring, tile, doors and bathroom fixtures they price them to move. When I was there 2 weeks ago they have a pile of entrance doors at about 80% off retail.
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I need a 32". Wood is easier to plane and epoxy does a good seal. It's for the shed.
I need some input from those that have dealt with piss poor ethernet installs before. One run from a jack to the garage was cut off with an inch out of the wall in the garage and is not currently terminated. Obviously, that can't reach anything and I need to extend it somehow. I don't have slack for failed attempts. I don't know if I have enough wire to fit an inline punchdown coupler. I may need to put a plug on it and use a plug-plug coupler? I've never tried that with ethernet before. Also, half of this house is wired A and half wired B so I need to test every run before terminating just to be more annoying. Any brilliant ideas? I'll even take non-brilliant ones that have worked before.
An inch of cable is enough to terminate a female jack on it.
It just requires some skill.
Ideally you want the entire site to follow the same standard . Either A or B .
However as long as the same standard is used in both ends of said run you are OK.
This only becomes an issue of you need to relocate or reterminate end and you are not sure which one was used. But it is easy to check before cutting off or reterminating.
I have all the tools (and skills) to tackle a mess like this.
I have a great tester that will test for proper termination and continuity of cables. (It does not certify) And it will identify which cable is which port at the patch Panel. (If a patch panel is used).
I will test up to 24 jacks within 1 trip around the house.
Hit me up.
I can either lend some tools/testers or help with getting it done.
EDIT.
I do not use tool-less jacks. ONLY if I'm in a bind. This would be helpful for your short cable.
Once the jack is on, you can extend the cable further as per your need.
It just requires some skill.
Ideally you want the entire site to follow the same standard . Either A or B .
However as long as the same standard is used in both ends of said run you are OK.
This only becomes an issue of you need to relocate or reterminate end and you are not sure which one was used. But it is easy to check before cutting off or reterminating.
I have all the tools (and skills) to tackle a mess like this.
I have a great tester that will test for proper termination and continuity of cables. (It does not certify) And it will identify which cable is which port at the patch Panel. (If a patch panel is used).
I will test up to 24 jacks within 1 trip around the house.
Hit me up.
I can either lend some tools/testers or help with getting it done.
EDIT.
I do not use tool-less jacks. ONLY if I'm in a bind. This would be helpful for your short cable.
Once the jack is on, you can extend the cable further as per your need.
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Thanks for the offer but I can do the work, I mostly need advice on the best way to polish this turd. I've got the stuff already (other than female jacks). My tester is the poverty send/receive that lights LED's in order to identify major wiring issues. I think there was more than one person doing the wiring and as they were only terminating one end they either didn't identify or didn't care that they weren't following the same standard.
While I appreciate them running wire to a central location, none of the wires were terminated at the garage end. They also didn't leave enough length for all wires to reach one switch or patch panel. I have two switches 4' apart to solve the second issue.
I terminated the wires I was using but now I want a few more to work and sadly, one of the ones I want to work is the one they cut so short. Cell reception sucks at our house so I'm adding some voip phones for my wife to use when she gets to work from home.
Instead of running multiple switches I would extend the cables that are too short so EVERYTHING comes to 1 central location.
If running new drops is not possible than extending them is last resort.
I would rather extend cables to bring everything into one central location instead of using multiple switches.
You can use a small a 12 port patch panel or a small surface mounted box that will accept keystone jacks.
It is much easier to troubleshoot wiring and networking issues if everything is run out of 1 location as as little switches as possible. \
Better to have a single 16 port switch instead of 2 X 8 port switches.
This one requires keystone jacks.
This one is direct punch down
If there are more than 12 cables, I would just terminate it into a proper 19" patch panel/rack.
Some items can be purchased on Amazon for good price. Other are better deals at industry suppliers. I can hook you up.
If running new drops is not possible than extending them is last resort.
I would rather extend cables to bring everything into one central location instead of using multiple switches.
You can use a small a 12 port patch panel or a small surface mounted box that will accept keystone jacks.
It is much easier to troubleshoot wiring and networking issues if everything is run out of 1 location as as little switches as possible. \
Better to have a single 16 port switch instead of 2 X 8 port switches.
This one requires keystone jacks.
This one is direct punch down
If there are more than 12 cables, I would just terminate it into a proper 19" patch panel/rack.
Some items can be purchased on Amazon for good price. Other are better deals at industry suppliers. I can hook you up.
sburns
Well-known member
Doesn't sound like you have much options. As long as you can get something on the end of that wire, either female or male, then attach something after that, like you said a coupler, or some extension wire etc. to add some length. Not going to look pretty but hopefully it will do the job and you can hide the mess behind a wall plate.
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