Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[GreyGhost]

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Wow...so nice of @GreyGhost and @oioioi to offer and help me out with this when the time comes.

You guys are awesome!

I'll hold the camera, you hold the rods. Adds another skill to you aresenal. I think my good rods are at my parents. I'll need to grab them next time I'm down.

 

[oioioi]

Wow...so nice of @GreyGhost and @oioioi to offer and help me out with this when the time comes.

You guys are awesome!

NP.
I have dome mine several times.
Installed my side mounted openers myself.

You and GG can hold my beer.

 

[mimico_polak]

NP.
I have dome mine several times.
Installed my side mounted openers myself.

You and GG can hold my beer.

I’m overdue for some new batch of limoncello and grapefrucello…

 

[Mad Mike]

I have a double car garage door and am looking to add some rigid insulation to help out with insulation (apparently it's insulated also).

Thinking of installing 1" rigid insulation (R5) (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/du...-5-gps-rigid-insulation-foam-board/1001211234) and this would add about 21lbs or so and will need to confirm how many panels I'll need.

Anyone know if the springs would need to be adjusted for that additional weight?

I think you miscalculated a typical r5 4x8 sheet of 1” eps weighs 1.5 lbs. I doubt your adding 14 sheets to each door!

 

[mimico_polak]

I think you miscalculated a typical r5 4x8 sheet of 1” eps weighs 1.5 lbs. I doubt your adding 14 sheets to each door!

I thought so too….but spec sheet calls it 7.73lbs…



Mind you there’s also a 2.91lbs in the same spec sheet…

 

[Mad Mike]

I thought so too….but spec sheet calls it 7.73lbs…

View attachment 78057

Mind you there’s also a 2.91lbs in the same spec sheet…

I deal with that stuff every day. I can lift a 48sheet bundle into my truck solo - trust me, it’s 1.5lbs/sheet.

Way up north we insulate everything. The biggest gain on your doors will be eliminating air leakage (seals). 50-80% of your heat loss is usually air leakage - it’s more efficient to seal than upping the insulation. If you don’t seal air leakage, no amount of insulation will save energy or increase comfort.

A double bulb bottom seal, good new style vertical vinyl wiper seals and a fresh top seal is your best bang for the buck. Sometimes tracks need slight adjustments to bring the panels close to the jams - should be a uniform 1/8” between panel and jam on a steel door.

 

[mimico_polak]

I deal with that stuff every day. I can lift a 48sheet bundle into my truck solo - trust me, it’s 1.5lbs/sheet.

Way up north we insulate everything. The biggest gain on your doors will be eliminating air leakage (seals). 50-80% of your heat loss is usually air leakage - it’s more efficient to seal than upping the insulation. If you don’t seal air leakage, no amount of insulation will save energy or increase comfort.

A double bulb bottom seal, good new style vertical vinyl wiper seals and a fresh top seal is your best bang for the buck.

Thanks! Biggest gap I see is around the entrance door which I can’t seem to plug up properly.

Can see air through there before, so I installed seals and still seeing some lighter parts.

 

[Mad Mike]

Thanks! Biggest gap I see is around the entrance door which I can’t seem to plug up properly.

Can see air through there before, so I installed seals and still seeing some lighter parts.

Steel man door? These bend and become flexible over time making them hard to seal, it’s usually the bottom that bends outward causing leakage at the part under the door knob and along the threshold.

It happens when obstacles (snow, ice, cords) get slammed by the door. The door bends or twists.

You can fix some of it with spring seals, but the best solution is a new door.

Keep your eyes on this channel, I’m replacing my worn out side door this week, I’ll try to remember to take a few pics.

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