Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Wow...so nice of @GreyGhost and @oioioi to offer and help me out with this when the time comes.

You guys are awesome!
NP.
I have dome mine several times.
Installed my side mounted openers myself.

You and GG can hold my beer.
 
I have a double car garage door and am looking to add some rigid insulation to help out with insulation (apparently it's insulated also).

Thinking of installing 1" rigid insulation (R5) (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/du...-5-gps-rigid-insulation-foam-board/1001211234) and this would add about 21lbs or so and will need to confirm how many panels I'll need.

Anyone know if the springs would need to be adjusted for that additional weight?
I think you miscalculated a typical r5 4x8 sheet of 1” eps weighs 1.5 lbs. I doubt your adding 14 sheets to each door!
 
I think you miscalculated a typical r5 4x8 sheet of 1” eps weighs 1.5 lbs. I doubt your adding 14 sheets to each door!
I thought so too….but spec sheet calls it 7.73lbs…

1773878129629.png

Mind you there’s also a 2.91lbs in the same spec sheet…
 
I thought so too….but spec sheet calls it 7.73lbs…

View attachment 78057

Mind you there’s also a 2.91lbs in the same spec sheet…
I deal with that stuff every day. I can lift a 48sheet bundle into my truck solo - trust me, it’s 1.5lbs/sheet.

Way up north we insulate everything. The biggest gain on your doors will be eliminating air leakage (seals). 50-80% of your heat loss is usually air leakage - it’s more efficient to seal than upping the insulation. If you don’t seal air leakage, no amount of insulation will save energy or increase comfort.

A double bulb bottom seal, good new style vertical vinyl wiper seals and a fresh top seal is your best bang for the buck. Sometimes tracks need slight adjustments to bring the panels close to the jams - should be a uniform 1/8” between panel and jam on a steel door.
 
I deal with that stuff every day. I can lift a 48sheet bundle into my truck solo - trust me, it’s 1.5lbs/sheet.

Way up north we insulate everything. The biggest gain on your doors will be eliminating air leakage (seals). 50-80% of your heat loss is usually air leakage - it’s more efficient to seal than upping the insulation. If you don’t seal air leakage, no amount of insulation will save energy or increase comfort.

A double bulb bottom seal, good new style vertical vinyl wiper seals and a fresh top seal is your best bang for the buck.
Thanks! Biggest gap I see is around the entrance door which I can’t seem to plug up properly.

Can see air through there before, so I installed seals and still seeing some lighter parts.
 
Thanks! Biggest gap I see is around the entrance door which I can’t seem to plug up properly.

Can see air through there before, so I installed seals and still seeing some lighter parts.
Steel man door? These bend and become flexible over time making them hard to seal, it’s usually the bottom that bends outward causing leakage at the part under the door knob and along the threshold.

It happens when obstacles (snow, ice, cords) get slammed by the door. The door bends or twists.

You can fix some of it with spring seals, but the best solution is a new door.

Keep your eyes on this channel, I’m replacing my worn out side door this week, I’ll try to remember to take a few pics.
 
Steel man door? These bend and become flexible over time making them hard to seal, it’s usually the bottom that bends outward causing leakage at the part under the door knob and along the threshold.

It happens when obstacles (snow, ice, cords) get slammed by the door. The door bends or twists.

You can fix some of it with spring seals, but the best solution is a new door.

Keep your eyes on this channel, I’m replacing my worn out side door this week, I’ll try to remember to take a few pics.
Here’s the culprit….

1773919158746.jpeg
 
That looks like the hundred buck builder special . They make those with a two by two lumber frame inside and a sheet of styrofoam , they put some adhesive on the metal skins so the stick to the foam and make an assembly. The gauge of metal is one step up from a beer can. As mike said , they rack when snow or ice gets on the bottom and the door gets slammed to close .
Easy short term fix is put a two by four in the top corner of the door and push closed to reverse the twist . This is easier than you think so push gently so you don’t go too far the wrong way . After straight comes F’ed . Gently.



Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
That looks like the hundred buck builder special . They make those with a two by two lumber frame inside and a sheet of styrofoam , they put some adhesive on the metal skins so the stick to the foam and make an assembly. The gauge of metal is one step up from a beer can. As mike said , they rack when snow or ice gets on the bottom and the door gets slammed to close .
Easy short term fix is put a two by four in the top corner of the door and push closed to reverse the twist . This is easier than you think so push gently so you don’t go too far the wrong way . After straight comes F’ed . Gently.



Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
Ok will give that a try. The largest gap was on the left vertical side where we added seals to try and close it up. Still can see some light shine through but it's more of the light going through the seal.

I'll measure it out today after work and look at options or hope Mike has a door that fits the gap as I don't want to start enlarging the space.

Would those drop down heavy duty plastic strips help to keep the cold out if I install them over the frame? My ESL isn't helping me this morning with finding the word...vinyl strips!

 
Ok will give that a try. The largest gap was on the left vertical side where we added seals to try and close it up. Still can see some light shine through but it's more of the light going through the seal.

I'll measure it out today after work and look at options or hope Mike has a door that fits the gap as I don't want to start enlarging the space.

Would those drop down heavy duty plastic strips help to keep the cold out if I install them over the frame? My ESL isn't helping me this morning with finding the word...vinyl strips!

Anything you do helps but the cost effectiveness is the issue.

You can add various types of weather stripping, automatic door bottoms, drapery, etc but sometimes doing it right is long term cheaper.
 
Ok will give that a try. The largest gap was on the left vertical side where we added seals to try and close it up. Still can see some light shine through but it's more of the light going through the seal.

I'll measure it out today after work and look at options or hope Mike has a door that fits the gap as I don't want to start enlarging the space.

Would those drop down heavy duty plastic strips help to keep the cold out if I install them over the frame? My ESL isn't helping me this morning with finding the word...vinyl strips!

Straightening the door is a quick fix, but also a short fix -- it will go back to twisted fairly quickly -- once you stretch the sheet metal skin the door wil lose it's stiffness.

The best solution is to replace the door. Sadly, the $100 builders door of yesteryear will be $450 after tax today You can occasionally find slabs, but usually it's the same cost to get a pre-hung replacement.

Tip: If you can fit a 36x80, you'll save -- they're always on the clearance racks, but not many other sizes.

Secret: Rona operates their national clearance center at McCowan Rd just north of Hwy 7. They occasionally have some killer deals -- I mean killer. Since Christmase, here's a lost of deals I picked up:

MAAX 3 pc fiberglass bathtub, $109, regular $1200
MAAX 45" (huge) square glass shower kit (base, walls and glass) $100, regular $1400
2 x 32" steel entrance doors with opening windows, $149, regular $750
2 x 32" fiberglass woodgrain entrance doors with opening windows, $299, regular $1600
72" patio door with integrated venetians $615, regular $1800
16 Luxart 36" vanities with quartz tops $199 each, regular $800

They don't always have killer deals, but when they get a big shipment sof flooring, tile, doors and bathroom fixtures they price them to move. When I was there 2 weeks ago they have a pile of entrance doors at about 80% off retail.
 
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