Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Combine gym time with stump removal. Assuming it's cut close to the ground, grab an axe and take some swings each time you go outside. It won't take too long to be reduced to chips.

Fwiw, I try not to use chainsaws for this as the dirt is so bad for them. Pruning blade on a recip saw makes quick work of roots. Make a cut close to the trunk and another one out about a foot gives you a path to dig. Get a path under the stump and slide in a jack. Pressure plus cutting other roots has it come up. You're left with an huge dirty chunk of wood and a big hole if you choose to remove it this way.
Use a pressure washer to cut away the dirt so you can follow the roots. Muddy but once you get caked you can save on sunscreen.
 
Use a pressure washer to cut away the dirt so you can follow the roots. Muddy but once you get caked you can save on sunscreen.

There's a product called Air Spade that uses compressed air to do the same, but minimum 25 SCFM @ 90 PSI (with models going up to 250 SCFM). I think it's just basically as super concentrated air nozzle, but I could be wrong. Might be worth playing around with super small nozzles to bump up the pressure if it's just for one small job.
 
There's a product called Air Spade that uses compressed air to do the same, but minimum 25 SCFM @ 90 PSI (with models going up to 250 SCFM). I think it's just basically as super concentrated air nozzle, but I could be wrong. Might be worth playing around with super small nozzles to bump up the pressure if it's just for one small job.
If money was free I'd bring in a soil vacuum and dig a huge cave under the stump. The root patterns are quite different from the crown.

Then I'd throw in a sack of peanuts and watch the squirrels go crazy.
 
Of course. A/C made a horrible noise. It ran fine last night but this evening capacitor is dead. I'll get a new one installed tomorrow. I don't stock spares. The last one lasted about five years.
 
so how did you do with your list mimico? you've had 5 years:sneaky:
The few things I plan on doing this spring/summer at the house are:

1. Install an 11x13' gazebo.
2. Finally install the drywall in the garage. Just found a nice drywall lift (I never knew these things existed) which will let me do the work on my own.
3. Install those Barina (?) lights that I got thanks to GTAMs run on Amazon a few months ago.
4. Maybe get a door cut into the cinder block b/w the garage and hallway in the house.
5. Build a small deck behind the house as I hate the stairs from the living room going down to the yard.
6. Finally go on test drives...but in today's climate...may not be the best idea to go find my toy car
 
so how did you do with your list mimico? you've had 5 years:sneaky:

1. Done
2. Done
3. Done
4. Done
5. Done
6. Done - does a WRX / GTI count? I've had a WRX -> Volt -> GTI -> Maverick in that timeframe.

I think the top 5 were done within 2 years, and with me doing it alone with help from dad here and there as required. Some help from cousins, GTAMers, etc. Great learning experience and feeling of accomplishment.

In the 5 years...I also clad the entire house in siding and insulation, built a new shed, put in drainage into the backyard, and also fixed a leaky basement...

Been a decent 5 years in terms of stuff around the house.

Thought you're gonna make me look lazy eh? :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
My whole back yard , such as it is , is covered on the lower level of the backyard with pressure treated deck . It’s only about four hundred sq ft , but that’s eight hundred lineal ft of decking . It’s really looking tired and something needs done . In Trex it’s an eight thousand dollar problem .


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My whole back yard , such as it is , is covered on the lower level of the backyard with pressure treated deck . It’s only about four hundred sq ft , but that’s eight hundred lineal ft of decking . It’s really looking tired and something needs done . In Trex it’s an eight thousand dollar problem .


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Is it too far gone for a good sanding and seal?
 
My whole back yard , such as it is , is covered on the lower level of the backyard with pressure treated deck . It’s only about four hundred sq ft , but that’s eight hundred lineal ft of decking . It’s really looking tired and something needs done . In Trex it’s an eight thousand dollar problem .


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Mine is about 300SF and looking tired but full 2X6 Green PT. Solid but shabby so @ $20 / SF = $3K
 
too far gone for a sand and shine fix. The upper deck is Trex so the lower now just looks even worse. Now I'm just debating in my head invisible clip system or the low end screw/plug system. Frame network is fine , so just deck boards at $ten bucks a ft for the not fancy Trex and $fifteen bucks a ft for the transcend nice Trex.
Thanks Canada for the twenty two percent reciprocal tarrifs on building materials ......
 
Anyone ever use Tamarack for decks and outdoor structures? Local lumber guy say life expectancy is better than cedar, not as good as PT. Claims his home deck is 15 years old, allTamarack.

A local mill is clearing 2x6x16 for $8 and 8x8x16 for $70. That’s about 1/3 the price of PT.

I’m building about 1000sq’ of deck, so about $2k for Tamarak, vs $6k for PT.

No ground contact, using screw piles.
 
Anyone ever use Tamarack for decks and outdoor structures? Local lumber guy say life expectancy is better than cedar, not as good as PT. Claims his home deck is 15 years old, allTamarack.

A local mill is clearing 2x6x16 for $8 and 8x8x16 for $70. That’s about 1/3 the price of PT.

I’m building about 1000sq’ of deck, so about $2k for Tamarak, vs $6k for PT.

No ground contact, using screw piles.
FWIW my green PT deck is ~30 years old and still solid. It's all full 1-1/2" material. It is dated and looks tired but I can live with it.
 
Tamarack ( also known as larch) is used a lot for fence posts and pilings and common as railroad ties . The stuff from northern climes has been used for boat building for years so it has a decent weather resistance. I don’t know if it’s better than cedar , but cedar quality has declined a lot in the last couple decades so quite possibly .


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Tamarack ( also known as larch) is used a lot for fence posts and pilings and common as railroad ties . The stuff from northern climes has been used for boat building for years so it has a decent weather resistance. I don’t know if it’s better than cedar , but cedar quality has declined a lot in the last couple decades so quite possibly .


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This is locally grown (Cochrane) and locally sawn by a mill that mostly serves mines in northern Ontario. They still offer stock lumber, stamped in standard dimensions (ie a 2x4 measures 2x4). This is great for me as a lot of the older places I work on were built using the old size lumber.

They are really nice to me, when I was reframing an old 2 story balloon frame, they cut and stamped 3x6 x 18’ at no price premium.
 
This is locally grown (Cochrane) and locally sawn by a mill that mostly serves mines in northern Ontario. They still offer stock lumber, stamped in standard dimensions (ie a 2x4 measures 2x4). This is great for me as a lot of the older places I work on were built using the old size lumber.

They are really nice to me, when I was reframing an old 2 story balloon frame, they cut and stamped 3x6 x 18’ at no price premium.
I was doing a job at a mill and asked if they sold rough lumber. Their answer was no. They said it can't be graded until after it's planed and they didn't sell any ungraded lumber.
 
Makes sense they service mining , literal thousands of pieces go into shoring .
Grading is a funny business , I’m a certified grader for hardwood veneer , ( and a commercial floor inspector but that’s a long story) , we employ a hardwood grader in our mill , that currently only processes softwood , and softwood grader is a different ticket again. The big mills we source from on SPF softwood use scanners to grade the lumber with an occasional look from an inspector .
FWIW all hardwood is graded unplanned, most softwood is graded when planed and many mom + pop mills don’t grade at all , they have an excellent idea what it is and it ships like that .
There are huge fights with religious community like mennonites building barns with ungraded lumber , municipal inspectors hate that . Problem is Hans has been building barns with his team for eighty years and his crew won’t use a piece of crap , your subdivision framer? He’ll use all the crap he can hide .


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Makes sense they service mining , literal thousands of pieces go into shoring .
Grading is a funny business , I’m a certified grader for hardwood veneer , ( and a commercial floor inspector but that’s a long story) , we employ a hardwood grader in our mill , that currently only processes softwood , and softwood grader is a different ticket again. The big mills we source from on SPF softwood use scanners to grade the lumber with an occasional look from an inspector .
FWIW all hardwood is graded unplanned, most softwood is graded when planed and many mom + pop mills don’t grade at all , they have an excellent idea what it is and it ships like that .
There are huge fights with religious community like mennonites building barns with ungraded lumber , municipal inspectors hate that . Problem is Hans has been building barns with his team for eighty years and his crew won’t use a piece of crap , your subdivision framer? He’ll use all the crap he can hide .


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Lots of mennonites around here - times are changing. They mill and grade lumber, they also build and stamp truss designs they build.

For carpentry work, the ask the going journeyman’s rates ($80/hr), but for things they build and sell ( lumber, roof trusses, panel walls, sheds) their prices are substantially lower.
 
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