Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

[GreyGhost]

Apparently at triple glazed you're eligible for a 5k rebate from the feds.

So....spend 40k to save 5k ... or just spend 20k (or less) for double glazed.

The 5K is total rebate. Heat pump is probably your best bang for the buck there. Actual measurable savings regardless of your current furnace situation (assuming you have a thermostat that deals with things appropriately). Can also do insulation (may be useful but if you blow in, you can not crawl through the attic any more or you will lose most of what you gained), solar (I could almost break even on a 5 kW solar install and then the power generated is "free") or a few other things.

 

[mimico_polak]

The 5K is total rebate. Heat pump is probably your best bang for the buck there. Actual measurable savings regardless of your current furnace situation (assuming you have a thermostat that deals with things appropriately). Can also do insulation (may be useful but if you blow in, you can not crawl through the attic any more or you will lose most of what you gained), solar (I could almost break even on a 5 kW solar install and then the power generated is "free") or a few other things.

Ya...another buddy is looking at 20-30k for a solar setup on his roof. When he gave me the numbers I'd rather just be more militant about ensuring less waste takes place in our house.

People must have a lot of money because to me it doesn't make financial sense.

Now thinking about it...I need to get rid of my water heater. I'll call those crooks tomorrow to see how I can break that contract.

 

[GreyGhost]

Ya...another buddy is looking at 20-30k for a solar setup on his roof. When he gave me the numbers I'd rather just be more militant about ensuring less waste takes place in our house.

People must have a lot of money because to me it doesn't make financial sense.

Now thinking about it...I need to get rid of my water heater. I'll call those crooks tomorrow to see how I can break that contract.

Good luck with the water heater. Bastards. That's pure extortion. I am hoping mine leaks soon so I can get out without paying >$1000 to buy a tank to throw out.

I know a solar guy so I can get required solar equipment for ~$1/watt. If I self-install, JT could cover the bill for a 5KW system. Even the solar guy says do the heat pump for better ROI. Current A/C is 15 year old 8 seer. I need to investigate what is required for JT's bonfire (at least audits before and after, not sure on equipment specs). That should burn the entire 5K allotment and I end up with a new A/C that is higher efficiency with the bonus of heat pump savings if I program thermostat properly (I have zero faith in any HVAC tech doing any proper programming).

 

[mimico_polak]

Our AC is getting louder and it's just me getting frustrated. But once the older one is done daycare the $1300 can be allocated to other things.

The AC will run until it dies. Loud or not...not an expense I need to do now, and my wife hates AC so on the 5-6 days/year we use it...we will live.

 

[Relax]

Apparently you can also just replace the glass instead of the whole window if the frames are still good. I was thinking of replacing mine because I can hear my neighbors clearly through ours when they're talking in their backyard. Also, even though the humidity is 35% or less during the winter, we get a lot of pooling condensation on some windows, and even ice on the inside bottom of one.

 

[GreyGhost]

Apparently you can also just replace the glass instead of the whole window if the frames are still good. I was thinking of replacing mine because I can hear my neighbors clearly through ours when they're talking in their backyard. Also, even though the humidity is 35% or less during the winter, we get a lot of pooling condensation on some windows, and even ice on the inside bottom of one.

Yes, you can just replace the glass packs. Approximately half the price of replacing whole windows. It will look better and you may gain Low E coating but otherwise expect no energy change. I will probably do that to gain lowE and get rid of fogged windows without needing to do trim and stucco repairs which would send the cost to the moon.

Changing the glass will not help hearing your neighbours. That will either be a seal issue or an installation issue (eg hole somewhere that air is passing through).

For condensation, is there something obstructing airflow to the windows? Closed curtains or california shutters are just asking for moisture issues.

 

[Relax]

Yes, you can just replace the glass packs. Approximately half the price of replacing whole windows. It will look better and you may gain Low E coating but otherwise expect no energy change. I will probably do that to gain lowE and get rid of fogged windows without needing to do trim and stucco repairs which would send the cost to the moon.

Changing the glass will not help hearing your neighbours. That will either be a seal issue or an installation issue (eg hole somewhere that air is passing through).

For condensation, is there something obstructing airflow to the windows? Closed curtains or california shutters are just asking for moisture issues.

Yeah, California shutters. We never have the fully shut to prevent airflow.

How do I figure out where the sound is coming in from?

 

[Gary]

Yeah, California shutters. We never have the fully shut to prevent airflow.

How do I figure out where the sound is coming in from?

Smoke test.
Condensation on the inside of the glass isn't caused be bad windows. It excess moisture/ humidity inside the home. Homes with a ton of plants for example.
Moisture/ fog between panes is a bad window(s).

 

[GreyGhost]

Yeah, California shutters. We never have the fully shut to prevent airflow.

How do I figure out where the sound is coming in from?

Acoustic camera? You probably don't have one of those kicking around.

Honestly there are a few easy ways. Assuming easy outside access, loud noise inside the house (white noise (static) is best but music if you have to) and listen around the window to find where the noise is leaking out. You could do the noise outside and listen inside but that annoys the neighbours more and you can't have it as loud. The louder it is (reasonably), the easier it is to find the leaks. Negative pressure on the house (all exhaust fans on) and thermal camera probably shows you. Inspecting the seals for gaps and/or dirt from air movement points to leaks.

Garys smoke test works instead of thermal camera when under negative pressure (or if inside temp equals outside temp at which point thermal is useless) or if you haven't waited a while for air to change temp of a nearby material or . . .

 

[GreyGhost]

Smoke test.
Condensation on the inside of the glass isn't caused be bad windows. It excess moisture/ humidity inside the home. Homes with a ton of plants for example.
Moisture/ fog between panes is a bad window(s).

If his 35% indoor humidity is accurate, it would need to be really cold to ice a window. 35% may not be accurate or more likely, stupid california shutter is screening the bottom of the window from airflow. My house came with them. I hate them on most of the windows but can't bring myself to throw out many thousands worth of window coverings (and no easy/safe way to store them if I removed them). Honestly, I would probably keep four of them and throw out 13 that never will be closed and just block light and vision.

 

[Relax]

If his 35% indoor humidity is accurate, it would need to be really cold to ice a window. 35% may not be accurate or more likely, stupid california shutter is screening the bottom of the window from airflow. My house came with them. I hate them on most of the windows but can't bring myself to throw out many thousands worth of window coverings (and no easy/safe way to store them if I removed them). Honestly, I would probably keep four of them and throw out 13 that never will be closed and just block light and vision.

Yeah, that was either last winter or the one before, not the one we just had. That room gets pretty cold/hot in winter and summer. I'm pretty sure there's an insulation problem on top of the window problem. I guess the additional heating/cooling costs haven't driven me to do anything about it yet. But the water pooling is starting to get on my nerves.

 

[SVeezy]

It's not hard. I did mine a bit ago.
Replaced the builder's grade with low-e (I needed it) and I opted for one with built in blinds. No regrets. QUOTE]

It definitely doesn’t seem that hard but it’s the random issues that sometimes pop up that deter me. I’d hate to have a huge open hole in my wall (exaggerating) that I have to play security on until I figure out how to fix it.


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[SVeezy]

We had our patio sliding door done a few years ago at our old townhouse. Price was about $900-1000 with installation and removal of old door.

Miranda Vinyl Products is where we got the door.

When my dad was younger (he's 70 now) we would do windows as a side gig. I was young and stupid so didn't really learn much...but when we got that door installed it was $250 for the installation which isn't worth to do ourselves.

That seems reasonable to me. Prices are stupidly inflated right now. I’d spend $1k for a professional to do it in a heartbeat. The doors I’ve looked at are approximately $750 so $250 to install is not an issue.

I’d also do the work if someone knowledgeable sat by and gave advice.


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[GreyGhost]

Rectangle windows aren't bad. Pop the inside trim and measure the existing IGU (glass pack). Very high probability thickness is 3mm glass/13 mm gas/3 mm glass. You can get gauges to measure that but if the spacer looks to be about 1/2" that's probably what you have. If spacer appears larger (possible for noise or in some premium windows) make sure you get an accurate measurement of the overall thickness of the IGU (either gauge or pop one out to measure). The overall thickness is your critical measurement 3/13/3 or 4/11/4 will both fit the same window.

Non-rectangle windows are more complicated. Pop-off trim, hold up paper and trace a template to give to manufacturer.

 

[Gary]

That seems reasonable to me. Prices are stupidly inflated right now. I’d spend $1k for a professional to do it in a heartbeat. The doors I’ve looked at are approximately $750 so $250 to install is not an issue.

I’d also do the work if someone knowledgeable sat by and gave advice.


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Measure brick to brick, sill to header. Then do it again. Make sure your opening is for a standard size replacement.
Hammer, prybar, screwgun, sawsall, circ saw, caulking gun, snips and a vacuum cleaner is about all you need for tools. Some cedar shake, or shims, possibly 3 x 8' 2x4, or 1x2. 1 x tube caulking, possible hunk or 2 of pink, 6 screws, and your choice on exterior capping /finishing. .
As long as the new door is smaller than the opening, you'll get it done.
Where you located?

 

[GreyGhost]

Measure brick to brick, sill to header. Then do it again. Make sure your opening is for a standard size replacement.
Hammer, prybar, screwgun, sawsall, circ saw, caulking gun, snips and a vacuum cleaner is about all you need for tools. Some cedar shake, or shims, possibly 3 x 8' 2x4, or 1x2. 1 x tube caulking, possible hunk or 2 of pink, 6 screws, and your choice on exterior capping /finishing. .
As long as the new door is smaller than the opening, you'll get it done.
Where you located?

Also low expansion spray foam and some form of flashing tape.

 

[Gary]

Also low expansion spray foam and some form of flashing tape.

That's why I put "pink" in my post.....referring to pink insulation.
Avoid spray foam, especially any type of expanding foam.

 

[GreyGhost]

That's why I put "pink" in my post.....referring to pink insulation.
Avoid spray foam, especially any type of expanding foam.

Ok, you can use batt insulation but then pay special attention to air sealing so you don't have drafts or bugs sneaking through.

 

[Gary]

Ok, you can use batt insulation but then pay special attention to air sealing so you don't have drafts or bugs sneaking through.

Yes, that's where caulking plays a roll. Sometimes you can have an outside stop on a door, same as windows. (installing from inside).

 

[mimico_polak]

That's why I put "pink" in my post.....referring to pink insulation.
Avoid spray foam, especially any type of expanding foam.

I’ve used expanding spray foam with no issues in windows. As long as it has space to move sideways it shouldn’t move the window.