Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 51 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

This is what I have from the looks of it. Can’t even mount the big tv I bought because the straps won’t hold.

I think I need to cut out the drywall. Mount a 2x10 to the block, redrywall and then mount the tv mount on that. Pain in the ass but we don’t want a typical stand with two little runners in the house as they’ll tip it eventually off the stand.
I have my TVs mounted on the external walls. I used a combination of fasteners/anchors (belt and suspenders). I mounted using six lag shield anchors directly into the inner layer (because inner course of brick sounds dirty....) of cinderblock/brick (made a hole in the rocklath to expose the blocks and set the anchors in the blocks then fixed the plaster to have just the hole for the bolts, 1/4 inch bolts if I remember correctly) and then also added some screws into the strapping for ***** and giggles. They are not going anywhere....

In my case I have given up on tapcons as the block used in the house won't hold them.
 
This is exactly what I need to do. Maybe I shouldn't bother ripping / cutting out the drywall to put in a 2x8 or x10 as a support....glad I posted this as it may save me some lovely drywall dust issues. Appears to be about 1-2" or so b/w the plaster/drywall (those stupid tiny 1x2' panels (which you can see the lines where they were taped together)) and I've got the outlined already on the wall.
 
2X4 wall and bat insulation is only R12, you got away with it as there is still enough heat getting through to keep the brick in good shape. Higher the R-value the larger the risk.
I would be shocked if his house isn't just brick veneer solid brick hasn't really been done since the 1800s. Lots of stud framed house's had no insulation or my favorite when I was in that business all the wall cavities filled with gravel or cement. That makes everything you do a joy when you cut a hole through the plaster and lathe and 500lbs of gravel pours onto the floor.

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If you are not afraid of commitment.... you can also PL a piece of 3/4" plywood to the plaster and screw the TV bracket to that, but then there is a chunk of plywood stuck to the wall if you decide to move the TV....

Yes I can also see many of the lines in the rocklath boards through the plaster, there are places I just do not put a lamp.... The upside, stud finders just do not work on this stuff (what I have), the vertical lines show me where the studs are (interior walls) or strapping (exterior)--cup half full.
 
This is exactly what I need to do. Maybe I shouldn't bother ripping / cutting out the drywall to put in a 2x8 or x10 as a support....glad I posted this as it may save me some lovely drywall dust issues. Appears to be about 1-2" or so b/w the plaster/drywall (those stupid tiny 1x2' panels (which you can see the lines where they were taped together)) and I've got the outlined already on the wall.
Any house I have ever seen with drywall lathe usually has r8 of fiberglass in the walls. I have never seen double brick and drywall lathe in the same building.

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I would be shocked if his house isn't just brick veneer solid brick hasn't really been done since the 1800s. Lots of stud framed house's had no insulation or my favorite when I was in that business all the wall cavities filled with gravel or cement. That makes everything you do a joy when you cut a hole through the plaster and lathe and 500lbs of gravel pours onto the floor.

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While true solid brick (all layers) is more of a Victorian era thing. Solid masonry (non stick) was very common well into the 50s, even some later, they just used block instead of brick on the inner layer(s). I huge portion of the housing stock in Toronto outside of the core is built this way, almost all in certain areas.

The tell tale sign when looking at a house is the course of brick that is turned sideways, tying the layers together. Usually every 4 to 6 rows.

Exterior Picture (sideways bricks every 6th row):
wall 1 small.jpg

Interior layer (the other end of the sideways bricks (ties) and the concrete blocks), my garage but this is under all the outside wall plaster:
wall 2 small.jpg

Entire house is built this way. Walls (and ceilings) are finished with rocklath 18" X 4' panels and then plastered, again super common. House was built in 1941 BTW.
 
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Typical for all older homes that are real brick/masonry construction (not just modern brick "veneer" over stick construction), mine is the same. (1941) The system works different, thermal mass is the name of the game. It is not the same as having a house with no wall insulation....

The structure is small cinder blocks on the inside (mine), red brick and stone on outside layer. Older ones will be all brick.stone. The brick is structural and ties in every five rows (you see the sideways bricks) with the block that is hidden. There is also typicall an air gap between the brick and block, mine has it. We have 18 inch X 4 foot rocklath and plaster on 1X4 strapping on the inside, air gap is about 3/4". Rocklath is backed with foil. The masonry provides thermal mass which helps in keeping the house warm once it is warmed up. Same for cooling... Not as good as modern insulation but it is a feasible system...

Caution, Please Read! If you decide to insulate the walls on the inside you change the thermal characteristics of the structure. The outer brick and stone (and mortar) is part of the thermal mass. If you thermal break the system (insulate on the inside) the outer brick will not properly dry out in winter and it can be damaged in winter. The failure rate will depend on how porus the brick and mortar are and how much insulation. A buddy went all high tech and gutted the house and did his with spray foam on the inside to modern building code R values, Now every winter the brick galls up when it freezes (water in the brick expands) as it does not properly dry out. It was not too bad the first few years but it keeps speeding up as the brick gets worse, the brick is now a mess (failing) and the ground around the house is covered with brick dust every spring... His house won't fall down next week but it is getting super damn ugly looking, worse every year! The materials were not the same as modern....by design and need. Less insulation would not have caused as much damage, maybe none at all but he went too far meeting modern code. It will also be worse where rain is driven, his is not too bad beside the neighbour's house as the brick is protected from driving rain by that house.

There is only one proper scientific way to do this and that is to insulate on the outside and cover with stucco etc. The brick is protected and you get the best of both systems, external thermal break and thermal mass on the inside. But you cover the brick and stone :( so people do not do this.... Building codes do not consider the impact to old structures.... I have done a tonne of research on this one as it is what I have, I also cautioned him but.... lots of knowledge in Europe not so much here.

Again, older solid brick homes not brick veneer stick construction.
Great info, thanks for sharing.

If anyone is interested there is actually some good info from the gov, Natural Resources. Seems well thought out.

 
I have heard of it just rarely seen it maybe it is a regional thing even the 1800 farmhouses I have worked on were single brick. Many with the genius idea to fill the wall cavities with gravel or cement.

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You guys are awesome thanks for the insight. Makes me feel it’s not so bad as others have similar issues with older houses.
 
Those are all a pain in the ass. I'd love to get rid of our popcorn ceiling, but it's been painted over and it's probably easier to just remove the drywall and put new one up...buddy cleaned his up a few weeks ago. Took him a week of scraping, and a week of mudding it level again.
Another friend just had new drywall put on the old drywall to not deal with the mess.

I'm still trying to make the case for ripping up our bedrooms one by one in the summer, and replacing all wiring, studs, insulation so we can get this house buttoned up tight. Slowly making progress.
Agreed. I de-popcorned a 50 year old ceiling last summer. It had been painted a few times - huge mess. If I was to do it again I'd remove the ceiling and re-drywall, or drywall over the existing ceiling.

I'm 10 years ahead of you. One by one I gutted every room in the house - , reinsulated, re-wired, added vapour barrier, corrected some bad framing, and re-drywalled.

I'm doing it again at my kid's house. Rather than one by one, we're doing the whole thing all at once. This time we're hiring someone to do the taping - $1800 for the whole house, they are in and out in 4 days.
 
I'm doing it again at my kid's house. Rather than one by one, we're doing the whole thing all at once. This time we're hiring someone to do the taping - $1800 for the whole house, they are in and out in 4 days.

Taping is the easy part IMHO ... it's the mudding...sanding...mudding...sanding that I hate. I tried, failed. Tried failed. And now my dad just does it. Looks so easy when he does it.

Buddy just hired a guy for $1400...guy forgot his ladder and his bucket so my friend let him use his. The guy that quoted $2800 told him 'clean the floor as my stilts need to get around so I can be faster.

He chose the cheaper guy.
 
As for popcorn and removal....... unless you know for sure otherwise assume it is made with asbestos if it was installed between roughly 1920 maybe 30s and mid 70s to maybe 80s. OK to be super safe 1920 to 1985ish.... In fact all the plaster is suspect from this time frame but it was quite common in popcorn for texture and of course scraping it off can put it into the air....

Those smaller linoleum floor tiles from this time frame as well, but the percentage is very low (5% AFAIK), more common in darker colours, again AFAIK.

Even after it was "banned" any product that was on the shelf was still sold until it was all gone.
 
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As for popcorn and removal....... unless you know for sure otherwise assume it is made with asbestos if it was installed between roughly 1920 maybe 30s and mid 70s to maybe 80s. OK to be super safe 1920 to 1985ish.... In fact all the plaster is suspect from this time frame but it was quite common in popcorn for texture and of course scraping it off can put it into the air....

Even after it was "banned" any product that was on the shelf was still sold until it was all gone.
My buddy (mentioned above) found asbestos in his mud on the drywall. 16k to get the basement cleaned out only.
 
My buddy (mentioned above) found asbestos in his mud on the drywall. 16k to get the basement cleaned out only.
I did a year long radon test at my house as I am planning on living here for a long time and didnt want to kill the family. It is slightly nerve-wracking waiting for results that are either normal or a huge bill with future price implications when you sell. Thankfully levels are ok. I assume asbestos testing is similar.
 
Popcorn is evil I did half my old house and the paid someone else to do the rest. I actually sanded it off with a power sander hooked to a dust removal system lucky it had never been painted but the sander was hell on my shoulders.This house has california ceiling I am just going to live with it.

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Houses in the hood are 20yrs old already. All have / had popcorn.
Two neighbours had theirs done.
Guy comes, scrapes, finishes cleans up and paints the ceiling for $2 /sq ft.
I'm still debating doing it myself, so it'll never get done.
 
I have heard of it just rarely seen it maybe it is a regional thing even the 1800 farmhouses I have worked on were single brick. Many with the genius idea to fill the wall cavities with gravel or cement.

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The house I'm working on now is balloon framed with true 2x4's x 16 on 24" centers. The original insulation (1925) was compressed pine shavings, the walls are all 1/2" T&G pine - no drywall, plaster, vapor barrier or housewrap.
 
The house I'm working on now is balloon framed with true 2x4's x 16 on 24" centers. The original insulation (1925) was compressed pine shavings, the walls are all 1/2" T&G pine - no drywall, plaster, vapor barrier or housewrap.
And I bet no (or very little) mold

****
I have sawdust/shavings as insulation in the ceilings. I was doing electrical on a ceiling light and totally freaked out when it came pouring out after I removed the old K&T box. I thought I must have some major ant or termite infestation, and based on the amount coming out there is literally no structure/joists left! Luckily it was put there as old school insulation.

Almost freaked out as bad as when I punched a hole in the finished basement ceiling and found the largest hornet/wasp nest between the joists I have ever seen, ran out of the room, slammed the door, considered moving... went back later, it was abandoned.
 
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so I finally got the house renos all finished and decided its time to move, so renos are about to start all over again

heater in garage
popcorn ceilings
floors
kitchen
bathrooms
trim
crown mouldings

will be the starting point, if there is any $$ left when thats done i'd like to build a sauna in the basement
 
And I bet no (or very little) mold

****
I have sawdust/shavings as insulation in the ceilings. I was doing electrical on a ceiling light and totally freaked out when it came pouring out after I removed the old K&T box. I thought I must have some major ant or termite infestation, and based on the amount coming out there is literally no structure/joists left! Luckily it was put there as old school insulation.

Almost freaked out as bad as when I punched a hole in the finished basement ceiling and found the largest hornet/wasp nest between the joists I have ever seen, ran out of the room, slammed the door, considered moving... went back later, it was abandoned.
Every time I find a ‘surprise’ or ‘saving’ or ‘workaround’ I curse the name Kevin....******* Kevin you son a *****. Previous owner has cost me hours upon hours of extra time to fix his ‘fixes’.

Neighbours all told me ‘yup, sounds like Kevin....always the cheapest way out’.
 

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