Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 50 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

I installed central-vac conduit from attic to office and basement for those reasons as well as wiring conduit from attic to behind tv and to both sides of tv. Leason learned as I should have ran larger conduit around tv as some have a couple cat6, an hdmi, and 8 speaker cables. Like garages, conduit can never be big enough.
If you're paving the driveway and there is the remote possibility of lighting, drop in a plastic conduit or poly pipe across it at some point in case you decide to have lights both sides.
 
If you're paving the driveway and there is the remote possibility of lighting, drop in a plastic conduit or poly pipe across it at some point in case you decide to have lights both sides.
This is our plan once we repave the driveway. I'm not digging it up or doing a directional bore on my own for a small conduit, but I'm sure it's possible.
 
I would like to remove all the popcorn ceilings

I would like to install pot lights upstairs and main floor

I would like to renovate the kids bathroom, and the master bathroom

These things above I just can’t seem to do....or I am getting lazy...

But

I have painted the entire house, redid all the trim, did the garage floor, did the concrete pad for the hot tub

maybe my DIY days are behind me...

.
Those are all a pain in the ass. I'd love to get rid of our popcorn ceiling, but it's been painted over and it's probably easier to just remove the drywall and put new one up...buddy cleaned his up a few weeks ago. Took him a week of scraping, and a week of mudding it level again.
Another friend just had new drywall put on the old drywall to not deal with the mess.

I'm still trying to make the case for ripping up our bedrooms one by one in the summer, and replacing all wiring, studs, insulation so we can get this house buttoned up tight. Slowly making progress.
 
Those are all a pain in the ass. I'd love to get rid of our popcorn ceiling, but it's been painted over and it's probably easier to just remove the drywall and put new one up...buddy cleaned his up a few weeks ago. Took him a week of scraping, and a week of mudding it level again.
Another friend just had new drywall put on the old drywall to not deal with the mess.

I'm still trying to make the case for ripping up our bedrooms one by one in the summer, and replacing all wiring, studs, insulation so we can get this house buttoned up tight. Slowly making progress.
We did the interior gutting many years ago and while it was an ongoing mess the final results were great. The energy savings are good but the comfort is also a big plus. When walls are cold, your body radiates heat towards the cold surfaces and you feel the cold even when the air is warm.
 
We did the interior gutting many years ago and while it was an ongoing mess the final results were great. The energy savings are good but the comfort is also a big plus. When walls are cold, your body radiates heat towards the cold surfaces and you feel the cold even when the air is warm.
My House has 2 layers of 2x1 drywall sheets, an air gap, and brick facade. Zero insulation. Actually out of the whole house the garage is the best insulated as I just finished that.
 
My House has 2 layers of 2x1 drywall sheets, an air gap, and brick facade. Zero insulation. Actually out of the whole house the garage is the best insulated as I just finished that.
Holy crap. That would be at the top of my list. One of the few renovations that will pay for itself (plus vastly improved comfort).
 
Holy crap. That would be at the top of my list. One of the few renovations that will pay for itself (plus vastly improved comfort).
It’s actually not too bad. We put in a new furnace last year and it made a hell of a difference. Plus winters not too bad so paying 100-200/month for 3-4 months is MUCH cheaper than installing 10k of drywall, insulation and the like....or 30k of stucco.
 
My House has 2 layers of 2x1 drywall sheets, an air gap, and brick facade. Zero insulation. Actually out of the whole house the garage is the best insulated as I just finished that.
Hmm sounds like bungalo style "insulation", meaning no insulation. I have the same thing. I believe I have a layer of tar paper someplace in there. I've noticed how drafty upstairs is compared to my basement which is insulated. I also have a fireplace up there which adds to the draft as the vent doesn't fully close, but even when I plugged up the fireplace front with a temp door/blocker doesn't make much difference to the draftiness.

I guess when you mentioned stucco this would be exterior insulation and prettifing.
 
Hmm sounds like bungalo style "insulation", meaning no insulation. I have the same thing. I believe I have a layer of tar paper someplace in there. I've noticed how drafty upstairs is compared to my basement which is insulated. I also have a fireplace up there which adds to the draft as the vent doesn't fully close, but even when I plugged up the fireplace front with a temp door/blocker doesn't make much difference to the draftiness.

I guess when you mentioned stucco this would be exterior insulation and prettifing.
My uncle was tearing down the old farmhouse built by his father in the early 1900's. One bedroom was always freezing. He peeled off the inside wall covering (I can't remember what it was) and at the bottom of the wall cavity there was a few inches of newspapers that had been spread in the wall at one point and a ton of light through the exterior wall. Probably close to 10% open area and no insulation. That explains the cold.
 
I guess when you mentioned stucco this would be exterior insulation and prettifing.
We are debating between stucco and siding. But I want to be sure it’s insulated siding.

Before that though I have 3 windows I want to enlarge and I’m not doing any new outside work until the windows are done so there’s no further changes.

EDIT: forgot to mention I have a 1” layer of insulation board....100% useless.
 
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We are debating between stucco and siding. But I want to be sure it’s insulated siding.

Before that though I have 3 windows I want to enlarge and I’m not doing any new outside work until the windows are done so there’s no further changes.

EDIT: forgot to mention I have a 1” layer of insulation board....100% useless.
I wouldn't count on stucco for insulation. Pick the look you want and go with that. If it was me, I would either stick with brick (zero maintenance, classic look) or put on external insulation and a hardie product that gives you your desired style. That costs a lot but gets you back to a reasonably maintenance free surface with an insulation bump. I would not put LP smartside on anything I planned on keeping. Snake oil marketing is strong with them.

I have stucco (well EIFS) on my house because it came with it. I don't like it. At all. Repairability sucks, it could do with a coat of paint as the builders coat was marginal, it has a ton of caulked edges that I need to cut out and redo, etc etc. Looks ok but booo.
 
We are debating between stucco and siding. But I want to be sure it’s insulated siding.

Before that though I have 3 windows I want to enlarge and I’m not doing any new outside work until the windows are done so there’s no further changes.

EDIT: forgot to mention I have a 1” layer of insulation board....100% useless.
Ya makes sense. I was thinking the same two options. I believe the main thing is to wrap the house in plastic to help create a air barrier then a layer of insulation, usually foam boards, which I believe can be done with both methods.
 
Ya makes sense. I was thinking the same two options. I believe the main thing is to wrap the house in plastic to help create a air barrier then a layer of insulation, usually foam boards, which I believe can be done with both methods.
I would not be doing that. Vapour barrier with insulation on both sides (and a lot more on the warm side than the cold side) is asking for trouble. Maybe an air barrier to help seal, but the existing brick shouldnt have much air moving through it already.
 
Ya makes sense. I was thinking the same two options. I believe the main thing is to wrap the house in plastic to help create a air barrier then a layer of insulation, usually foam boards, which I believe can be done with both methods.
I’ve never heard of a vapor barrier underneath stucco. Usually it’s styrofoam insulation (2”) and then the stucco on top of that. Have heard when done properly it’s an awesome insulator. But not sure as it’s all from those that have done it (except @GreyGhost from what he said).
 
I’ve never heard of a vapor barrier underneath stucco. Usually it’s styrofoam insulation (2”) and then the stucco on top of that. Have heard when done properly it’s an awesome insulator. But not sure as it’s all from those that have done it (except @GreyGhost from what he said).
I haven't installed EIFS from scratch on residential. In a past life I helped install it on commercial. Meh. Old school stucco was ~3/4" thick and you could hit it with a sledgehammer with only a slight mark, EIFS is <1/4" thick and isn't that hard to damage. My current house had a minor water issue and I have a big soft spot in the stucco below a light fixture. To fix it, I would need to cut out the soft spot, cutout the foam, rebuild the foam, have the stucco reapplied, reskim the stucco on the rest of that facade and then repaint the house. Fack. The problem area is on the 2nd level so I am just leaving it for now and hoping it doesn't fall apart. If it does, then I will do that pain in the ass project that costs a fortune and gets me back to where I was at the beginning.

As for insulation, Stucco normally uses white open cell foam which should have less insulation per inch than extruded foam (and you shave some off to make a flat surface). I haven't looked recently at best practices but I suspect something like Z bar holding roxul batts, wrapped in air barrier and then flashed to windows is probably close. That gives you insulation, drainage, air barrier and something to attach finish to. IIRC, they may have something better than Z bar now that is like compressed roxul so you have less of a thermal bridge. Then install finish material to make it pretty and durable.
 
My House has 2 layers of 2x1 drywall sheets, an air gap, and brick facade. Zero insulation. Actually out of the whole house the garage is the best insulated as I just finished that.
Typical for all older homes that are real brick/masonry construction (not just modern brick "veneer" over stick construction), mine is the same. (1941) The system works different, thermal mass is the name of the game. It is not the same as having a house with no wall insulation....

The structure is small cinder blocks on the inside (mine), red brick and stone on outside layer. Older ones will be all brick.stone. The brick is structural and ties in every five rows (you see the sideways bricks) with the block that is hidden. There is also typicall an air gap between the brick and block, mine has it. We have 18 inch X 4 foot rocklath and plaster on 1X4 strapping on the inside, air gap is about 3/4". Rocklath is backed with foil. The masonry provides thermal mass which helps in keeping the house warm once it is warmed up. Same for cooling... Not as good as modern insulation but it is a feasible system...

Caution, Please Read! If you decide to insulate the walls on the inside you change the thermal characteristics of the structure. The outer brick and stone (and mortar) is part of the thermal mass. If you thermal break the system (insulate on the inside) the outer brick will not properly dry out in winter and it can be damaged in winter. The failure rate will depend on how porus the brick and mortar are and how much insulation. A buddy went all high tech and gutted the house and did his with spray foam on the inside to modern building code R values, Now every winter the brick galls up when it freezes (water in the brick expands) as it does not properly dry out. It was not too bad the first few years but it keeps speeding up as the brick gets worse, the brick is now a mess (failing) and the ground around the house is covered with brick dust every spring... His house won't fall down next week but it is getting super damn ugly looking, worse every year! The materials were not the same as modern....by design and need. Less insulation would not have caused as much damage, maybe none at all but he went too far meeting modern code. It will also be worse where rain is driven, his is not too bad beside the neighbour's house as the brick is protected from driving rain by that house.

There is only one proper scientific way to do this and that is to insulate on the outside and cover with stucco etc. The brick is protected and you get the best of both systems, external thermal break and thermal mass on the inside. But you cover the brick and stone :( so people do not do this.... Building codes do not consider the impact to old structures.... I have done a tonne of research on this one as it is what I have, I also cautioned him but.... lots of knowledge in Europe not so much here.

Again, older solid brick homes not brick veneer stick construction.
 
Typical for all older homes that are real brick/masonry construction (not just modern brick "veneer" over stick construction), mine is the same. (1941) The system works different, thermal mass is the name of the game. It is not the same as having a house with no wall insulation....

The structure is small cinder blocks on the inside (mine), red brick and stone on outside layer. Older ones will be all brick.stone. The brick is structural and ties in every five rows (you see the sideways bricks) with the block that is hidden. There is also typicall an air gap between the brick and block, mine has it. We have 18 inch X 4 foot rocklath and plaster on 1X4 strapping on the inside, air gap is about 3/4". Rocklath is backed with foil. The masonry provides thermal mass which helps in keeping the house warm once it is warmed up. Same for cooling... Not as good as modern insulation but it is a feasible system...

Caution, Please Read! If you decide to insulate the walls on the inside you change the thermal characteristics of the structure. The outer brick and stone (and mortar) is part of the thermal mass. If you thermal break the system (insulate on the inside) the outer brick will not properly dry out in winter and it can be damaged in winter. The failure rate will depend on how porus the brick and mortar are and how much insulation. A buddy went all high tech and gutted the house and did his with spray foam on the inside to modern building code R values, Now every winter the brick galls up when it freezes (water in the brick expands) as it does not properly dry out. It was not too bad the first few years but it keeps speeding up as the brick gets worse, the brick is now a mess (failing) and the ground around the house is covered with brick dust every spring... His house won't fall down next week but it is getting super damn ugly looking, worse every year! The materials were not the same as modern....by design and need. Less insulation would not have caused as much damage, maybe none at all but he went too far meeting modern code. It will also be worse where rain is driven, his is not too bad beside the neighbour's house as the brick is protected from driving rain by that house.

There is only one proper scientific way to do this and that is to insulate on the outside and cover with stucco etc. The brick is protected and you get the best of both systems, external thermal break and thermal mass on the inside. But you cover the brick and stone :( so people do not do this.... Building codes do not consider the impact to old structures.... I have done a tonne of research on this one as it is what I have, I also cautioned him but.... lots of knowledge in Europe not so much here.

Again, older solid brick homes not brick veneer stick construction.

Our house was solid masonry with 1X2 strapping, gypsum board and plaster. We stripped the inside and put up 2X4s, fibreglass, vapour barrier and drywall. That was 30+ years ago and no problem with the soft sand lime bricks.

However 40+ years ago someone came up with the great idea spraying a silicone waterproofing on exterior brick walls. It apparently causes water retention and spalling. My brother had it on his house for some reason.
 
We are debating between stucco and siding. But I want to be sure it’s insulated siding.

Before that though I have 3 windows I want to enlarge and I’m not doing any new outside work until the windows are done so there’s no further changes.

EDIT: forgot to mention I have a 1” layer of insulation board....100% useless.

The insulated aluminum siding I worked with had a thin coat of foam sprayed on. IMO it was a sound deadener. Neighbour across the street strapped his house upper level with 2X2s and put in extruded foam then covered with siding. Added new windows at the same time.

I just replaced the old bedroom windows in our place and because of the detail I created by interior renovations, the job was a pain.
 
Our house was solid masonry with 1X2 strapping, gypsum board and plaster. We stripped the inside and put up 2X4s, fibreglass, vapour barrier and drywall. That was 30+ years ago and no problem with the soft sand lime bricks.

However 40+ years ago someone came up with the great idea spraying a silicone waterproofing on exterior brick walls. It apparently causes water retention and spalling. My brother had it on his house for some reason.
This is what I have from the looks of it. Can’t even mount the big tv I bought because the straps won’t hold.

I think I need to cut out the drywall. Mount a 2x10 to the block, redrywall and then mount the tv mount on that. Pain in the ass but we don’t want a typical stand with two little runners in the house as they’ll tip it eventually off the stand.
 
Our house was solid masonry with 1X2 strapping, gypsum board and plaster. We stripped the inside and put up 2X4s, fibreglass, vapour barrier and drywall. That was 30+ years ago and no problem with the soft sand lime bricks.

However 40+ years ago someone came up with the great idea spraying a silicone waterproofing on exterior brick walls. It apparently causes water retention and spalling. My brother had it on his house for some reason.
2X4 wall and bat insulation is only R12, you got away with it as there is still enough heat getting through to keep the brick in good shape. Higher the R-value the larger the risk.
 

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