Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 48 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Are you sure you aren't just backdrafting the other fireplace? See if opening a window fixes it. Does your fireplace have a supply air damper?

Gas fireplaces or wood?
Hmmm....
1. It's possible
2. Will try
3. All I know of is the damper / door above it to allow smoke to escape
4. Wood for both of them.

We've considered removing both fireplaces....but I haven't gone into the attic to see if it's a structural support piece, or if I can take it apart brick by brick on my own. Neighbour with a similar house said he did it himself and just took out both fireplaces brick by brick starting at the top.
 
Hmmm....
1. It's possible
2. Will try
3. All I know of is the damper / door above it to allow smoke to escape
4. Wood for both of them.

We've considered removing both fireplaces....but I haven't gone into the attic to see if it's a structural support piece, or if I can take it apart brick by brick on my own. Neighbour with a similar house said he did it himself and just took out both fireplaces brick by brick starting at the top.
Didn't you recently buy the house? Didn't you get a WETT inspection? If not how do you have insurance?

As for the dampers, my parents fireplaces have the typical chimney damper above the firebox but they also have fresh air dampers low and on the sides to provide combustion air without drawing from the house. Theirs are accessed from outside the firebox and you wouldn't see them unless you really looked.
 
Didn't you recently buy the house? Didn't you get a WETT inspection? If not how do you have insurance?

As for the dampers, my parents fireplaces have the typical chimney damper above the firebox but they also have fresh air dampers low and on the sides to provide combustion air without drawing from the house. Theirs are accessed from outside the firebox and you wouldn't see them unless you really looked.
Yes, we had an inspection but not a specific WETT inspection. Had the fireplace cleaned out by pros when we bought and they said all looks good in both chimneys. A little bit of buildup, and some mortar coming loose that will need to be dealt with in time. I'm just curious about what to look for, but can see some cracking in the mortar.

I think there's caulking for high temperatures which can be used. My buddy had the mortar replaced in his fireplace completely where they ripped out the mortar and put in brand new.

I'll pop my head into the chimneys this week to see what's actually there.
 
Yes, we had an inspection but not a specific WETT inspection. Had the fireplace cleaned out by pros when we bought and they said all looks good in both chimneys. A little bit of buildup, and some mortar coming loose that will need to be dealt with in time. I'm just curious about what to look for, but can see some cracking in the mortar.

I think there's caulking for high temperatures which can be used. My buddy had the mortar replaced in his fireplace completely where they ripped out the mortar and put in brand new.

I'll pop my head into the chimneys this week to see what's actually there.
If I was going to keep them, I would probably do liner, not mortar but fireplace repair is not normally my thing. I would be consulting a professional, not homegaming a solution. I may install a liner myself if that was acceptable to insurance and pay the expert for their advice.
 
If I was going to keep them, I would probably do liner, not mortar but fireplace repair is not normally my thing. I would be consulting a professional, not homegaming a solution. I may install a liner myself if that was acceptable to insurance and pay the expert for their advice.
We want to get rid of them with time so I don't want to put in too much funds into maintaining them. So long as they're safe and not crumbling I'm good.

I wish I had the time to do it before we moved in, as now to remove them...roof repairs (cover holes), ceiling repair, wall repair, floor repair....so much work.

BUT...if we got rid of them...we'd have an awesome open space living room/kitchen space. We can probably build an island in it's place that would fill the floor space so it wouldn't look too bad. All it takes is time and money lol.
 
We want to get rid of them with time so I don't want to put in too much funds into maintaining them. So long as they're safe and not crumbling I'm good.

I wish I had the time to do it before we moved in, as now to remove them...roof repairs (cover holes), ceiling repair, wall repair, floor repair....so much work.

BUT...if we got rid of them...we'd have an awesome open space living room/kitchen space. We can probably build an island in it's place that would fill the floor space so it wouldn't look too bad. All it takes is time and money lol.
How big is the chimney stack? Room for a ladder up to a small platform in a clerestory? :) Gain a light shaft and a commanding view of your neighbourhood.
 
How big is the chimney stack? Room for a ladder up to a small platform in a clerestory? :) Gain a light shaft and a commanding view of your neighbourhood.
Only about 6-8ft above the roofline. So won’t be playing pirate too soon. But I’m going to measure out the space and try to put it into a Sketchup model.
 
We want to get rid of them with time so I don't want to put in too much funds into maintaining them. So long as they're safe and not crumbling I'm good.

I wish I had the time to do it before we moved in, as now to remove them...roof repairs (cover holes), ceiling repair, wall repair, floor repair....so much work.

BUT...if we got rid of them...we'd have an awesome open space living room/kitchen space. We can probably build an island in it's place that would fill the floor space so it wouldn't look too bad. All it takes is time and money lol.
We had two fire places with the flues side by side. Warm fire in rec room = smoke and cold air in living room and vice versa.

It was great the first year or two as the scrap wood from renovations went up the chimney.

Then the novelty wore off and we saw that the rooms would be more usable without the fireplaces and they were removed. We've never regretted it. With a high efficiency furnace and hot water heater the three flue chimney is no longer needed. It may come down to roof slope level if it deteriorates. Right now it just has full caps.

Chimney work used to be specialty brickwork and not cheap.
 
Curious to know what everyone's thoughts are on painting concert floors or foundation walls.

I'm ripping out a small area of my basement and the floor has paint on it which is peeling/cracking (it's old). Part of this area also has a part of a foundation wall, which will not have been painted. Eventually it will be refinished but I thought painting these surfaces will help.
 
Curious to know what everyone's thoughts are on painting concert floors or foundation walls.

I'm ripping out a small area of my basement and the floor has paint on it which is peeling/cracking (it's old). Part of this area also has a part of a foundation wall, which will not have been painted. Eventually it will be refinished but I thought painting these surfaces will help.
I have never had good luck with painting concrete. Iirc you can make it stick, but you need special prep and paint that breathes otherwise moisture from the back will blow it off.
 
On a different paint related topic, I had toyed with the idea of painting our custom home myself but after a discussion on here last year about professional painters being worth the money I used the builders painters. That was a mistake. Quality of work just isn't what I was expecting and they miss things all over like the ends of window valence trim pieces and in tight spaces like where railings meet stairs. Plus I see specks on walls where chips/dust have gotten into paint and caused bumps on walls. I've had them back twice to fix things and still find myself spending hours with a sanding block and paint cans making their expensive job look presentable.
 
On a different paint related topic, I had toyed with the idea of painting our custom home myself but after a discussion on here last year about professional painters being worth the money I used the builders painters. That was a mistake. Quality of work just isn't what I was expecting and they miss things all over like the ends of window valence trim pieces and in tight spaces like where railings meet stairs. Plus I see specks on walls where chips/dust have gotten into paint and caused bumps on walls. I've had them back twice to fix things and still find myself spending hours with a sanding block and paint cans making their expensive job look presentable.
Haha ya. Have had that discussion...

friend: need to paint my rooms know anyone?
Me: sure I’ll do it for free just get pizza and beer
Friend: no offence but I want a pro
Me: ok cool
...
Me: why isn’t this that and that painted? Closet either?
Friend: Frak....they’ve been back 3 times and I’m still chasing them.
me: cool

another friend is a residential/commercial painter. I went to uni, he did painting....guess who makes 4x the others salary! But watching him paint is awesome. There’s something to be said about watching pros do the work. I can’t afford him but would love for him to paint my house interior or exterior just after seeing the quality.
 
Curious to know what everyone's thoughts are on painting concert floors or foundation walls.

I'm ripping out a small area of my basement and the floor has paint on it which is peeling/cracking (it's old). Part of this area also has a part of a foundation wall, which will not have been painted. Eventually it will be refinished but I thought painting these surfaces will help.
Proper preparation will make or break that job. Clean it, clean it, clean it and then clean it again. Proper primer and exterior paint should work as it’s more resistant to temp and moisture. But without a proper sealant / primer the moisture will get through. I can ask my buddy and let you know.
 
Haha ya. Have had that discussion...

friend: need to paint my rooms know anyone?
Me: sure I’ll do it for free just get pizza and beer
Friend: no offence but I want a pro
Me: ok cool
...
Me: why isn’t this that and that painted? Closet either?
Friend: Frak....they’ve been back 3 times and I’m still chasing them.
me: cool

another friend is a residential/commercial painter. I went to uni, he did painting....guess who makes 4x the others salary! But watching him paint is awesome. There’s something to be said about watching pros do the work. I can’t afford him but would love for him to paint my house interior or exterior just after seeing the quality.
Friends hired a good painter to do their master bedroom. $5000 and a week later, it looked awesome. Level 5 finish on every surface.

When I was selling my last house, $2000 and a week later the entire house looked ok.
 
I have never had good luck with painting concrete. Iirc you can make it stick, but you need special prep and paint that breathes otherwise moisture from the back will blow it off.

Good news, bad news.

This summer I painted my garage floor with Solignum? from Canadian Tire, supposed to be a one part epoxy. I cleaned the floor but didn't etch or grind and it is peeling already in spots. I think the floor was sealed so I will be doing grinding and touch up work during the summer lock down. You aren't supposed to drive on the Solignum for 28 days. It may be a concern that hot tires could stick to the paint. It was dry to the touch overnight IIRC.

My basement floor got painted with cheap oil based floor paint decades ago and it has worn off. I'm re-doing it in sections with Tremclad and it seems to work.

I watched a bunch of videos and the professionals do the diamond grinding, etch etc. I can't justify the cost for a utility room or garage floor.

I don't know the cost of a diamond grinder but they are heavy brutes from what I see. For the garage I will rig up something hand held. It isn't a Ferrari showroom.

Our rec room was done in parquet flooring when the house was built but water leakage caused it to buckle.

I ended up chipping off all the parquet, steaming off the glue and painting the floor with oil based floor paint and had little problem even though there was water under the floor. For kicks I used a beige paint and then air brushed a wood plank pattern until we re did the room including up to date waterproofing, one of our better investments.

For the crawl space walls I am using up all the latex / acrylic paint left over from other jobs.

My only issue with the border closing is I can't get to Harbor Freight in Buffalo to pick up some cheap diamond disks but I think I can source some in Vaughan. It all depends on how many I need to do 200 square feet.
 
On a different paint related topic, I had toyed with the idea of painting our custom home myself but after a discussion on here last year about professional painters being worth the money I used the builders painters. That was a mistake. Quality of work just isn't what I was expecting and they miss things all over like the ends of window valence trim pieces and in tight spaces like where railings meet stairs. Plus I see specks on walls where chips/dust have gotten into paint and caused bumps on walls. I've had them back twice to fix things and still find myself spending hours with a sanding block and paint cans making their expensive job look presentable.

I knew a painter from England where you take a five year apprenticeship. Awesome skill level. People in Forest Hill etc wait weeks for these guys. Student painters are the other end of the spectrum, trained on the way to the job.

Professional painters also have access to lines amateurs don't, oil base etc. I just repainted out steel stair railing pickets with Epifanes boat paint. Awesome product. The stuff from the paint stores is garbage. I understand the VOC thing but if the job lasts 10 times as long think about the fumes from the painter's truck when he has to come back every two or three years.

They built a modest sized new home next to a friend and final paint was close to $20K. It sounded like a lot until you consider all different colours, trim and multiple coats. The floors were finished so you couldn't just kick stuff around.
 
My only issue with the border closing is I can't get to Harbor Freight in Buffalo to pick up some cheap diamond disks but I think I can source some in Vaughan. It all depends on how many I need to do 200 square feet.
I don't know which vaughan place you are referring to, but investment hardware has some cheap, ok discs. For a floor, I would rather use a cup as a disc will have a lot of angle to it, but I don't know if a cheap cup exists.
 
Proper preparation will make or break that job. Clean it, clean it, clean it and then clean it again. Proper primer and exterior paint should work as it’s more resistant to temp and moisture. But without a proper sealant / primer the moisture will get through. I can ask my buddy and let you know.
Yes please, that would be great help!
 
Good news, bad news.

This summer I painted my garage floor with Solignum? from Canadian Tire, supposed to be a one part epoxy. I cleaned the floor but didn't etch or grind and it is peeling already in spots. I think the floor was sealed so I will be doing grinding and touch up work during the summer lock down. You aren't supposed to drive on the Solignum for 28 days. It may be a concern that hot tires could stick to the paint. It was dry to the touch overnight IIRC.
I also painted my garage floor with something from CT, and the next year is was peeling... not happy, but not a huge deal either.
 
Yes please, that would be great help!
Talked to buddy...

without seeing it ..
- clean clean clean some more
- dry out properly
- vacuum the area to remove any loose particles so that the paint won't flake off at those points
- latex primer

if it's shiny concrete, you'll need to grind it to provide 'grip' for the paint to hold onto. The cleaning/vacuuming is the most important part.
 

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