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Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?
- Thread starter mimico_polak
- Start date
I would...but they're too expensive for a free whiteboard.
And my PENG is in BS as I've never done a day of engineering in my life.
Try to hit a stud, even if they are steel studs for a couple of the anchors.
Most likely no studs here. Just strips as on the main floor.
Frak you're smart! Didn't consider that one.
Run a stringer across several studs and share the load.
The drywall anchors state '75lbs' for each one...that's a total of 300lbs (which I don't believe will hold).
Biggest issue is the screws for those anchors are 1/4" and the holes are about 0.75-1" so need the appropriate washers. I'm sure I've got something around here.
My induction range came today. Also found out my pans weren’t magnetic. Also the frying pans we have. Also the wok. Off to Costco for a shop.
Plus side. It’s swish. Delivery guys were awesome. First new cooker in 16 years. No more things sticking to coils and creating the worlds worst incense. So weird being able to touch the stovetop while it’s cooking something and not being burned.
Plus side. It’s swish. Delivery guys were awesome. First new cooker in 16 years. No more things sticking to coils and creating the worlds worst incense. So weird being able to touch the stovetop while it’s cooking something and not being burned.
Delivery guy dropped off pool heat pump today. Weird forest green colour. Not like the pictures but oh well. Wiring went in last night. Old heater came out tonight (in pieces, rust was as bad as expected). Plumbing went in today. Final electrical tie-in and commissioning tomorrow. So far so good. With circulation pump at max speed we are a few psi lower than with old heater in (I included a bypass and isolation valves as heater only has 1.5" through and I redid rest of pad in 2").
My induction range just died this past weekend, after just under 10 years. To be fair, the burners still work fine, it's the oven controls that went. About $1000 for the part, and it is as impossible to find as a belt for my CM250C. We'll probably replace it with a used unit for now, and I'll tear it apart and hopefully see a blown cap or something obvious on the control board that can be fixed.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
What type of pump did you get, and how many liters is the pool you're heating?
I have been thinking about changing over -- natural gas prices are soaring and the night rate on electricity is heading to 2 cents/Kwh.
Pool is just over 50k litres. All pool people recommended ~100k btu heat pump. On the recommendation of a gtam'er I went with 50K BTU as that works for them with a bigger pool. I could buy two and still be cheaper than one 100k heat pump and be slightly redundant and the heat pumps could be different ages to spread he pain.
I went with a Northflo inverter. It is outside my bedroom window and I dont want to hear it. I could have saved a few hundred and went with non-inverter which may be quiet enough but couldnt know for sure until after install. It turns out inverter doesnt include a timer. Boo. May wire a decommissioned pool pump timer to control the heater for now. Obviously no information on effectiveness yet.
Working on building an automation solution to control the whole thing. That makes it easy to follow time-of-use rates including weekends, easy to control pump speed with heat pump (heat pump has lines to control pump but I suspect they are going to give me 220v and I need a closed circuit so I will add a contactor for now if its 220). It will also be a trial run for a house thermostat. Available solutions suck. I want it to intelligently control a heat pump with multi speed nat gas backup furnace and humidifier and hrv. Also have most wiring in furnace room with just a couple wires to the control head. The current system with one wire for every function is dumb. Nobody has enough wires (worse if your house is older). I will install a conventional backup thermostat as an anti-freeze backup in case my solution craps the bed.
EDIT:
Meh. Fan is pretty quiet. Can definitely hear the compressor hum. but it's not loud. I will measure it later. I suspect they played games with measurement and included times when it's off. Pump running at my low speed (1300 rpm/70 watts/20 gpm) looks like it will be enough to keep the heat pump happy. We'll let it run for a while to see if it kicks out. Technically it wants 23 to 40 gpm but it will depend on pool and air temp. Pump contacts in heat pump are roughly just open/close contacts which is good but they have 2.5V ac on them with some power to drive, it's not just a floating voltage. I don't love that.
Northflo is imported by Moov from QC. Moov also sells their own branded heat pumps. Moov case is slightly different and the controller appears slightly better.
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I do have a few tubes of it in the garage...but not sure I want to rip off part of the wall if it's time to move.
Whiteboard included with house. Done.
Great idea...but needs to be off the ground where the monsters can't touch it. Because they got their hands on another one...and this is all permanent marker...
EDIT: permanent markers…
Mad Mike
Well-known member
I did the small BTU option on my last pool heater, I had a LAARS 55K BTU gas. It was installed on a similar recommendation by a neighbour. I'll never do that again.
To bring up the pool temp from 75 to 85f took about 30hrs hrs with the 55K heater. The 265K I replaced it with in 2020 brings temp up 10f in 6hrs (vs 30). With the small heater I had keep the pool at 85 all the time otherwise it was never used. I also needed an insulated blanket or the heater ran for 15hrs a day.
With the bigger heater, I only turn it on when I plan to use the pool, this time of year it stays around 75 without heat. I flip on the heat and in 2.5 hrs it's at 80 - (vs 12hrs), 6 hrs to 85.
Overall the large heater costs me about 1/2 as much gas over the course of the season.
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