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Anyone here a cyclist?
- Thread starter MaksTO
- Start date
I just found out that there's a set of trails a few kilometres away.
I'm going to start with the easy trails.
Can I get away with a hard-tail mountain bike with big fat pedals, or do I need to put the clip pedals back on?
Keep in mind that I don't know about all these new fangled bike terms like XC etc., so please cut me a break.
I'm going to start with the easy trails.
Can I get away with a hard-tail mountain bike with big fat pedals, or do I need to put the clip pedals back on?
Keep in mind that I don't know about all these new fangled bike terms like XC etc., so please cut me a break.
I like clipless pedals (which are actually clips but whatever) but flat pedals are a great idea most of the time. Much easier to get off and you won't have the inglorious slow speed flop over.
I prefer hardtail. If I had the legs and/or was racing, maybe I'd want more squish, but as it is, I want my effort moving me forward not up and down.
Hardtails are fine for 90% of the trails in Ontario. if this is your foray into trail riding you can argue its better to start on a hardtail - Forces you to pick your lines, get used to the rear end sliding, etc. Rather than bulldozing over everything like you can on a full suspension. Clipless pedals are just more efficient and will keep your feet from sliding around in the rougher stuff. At the same time it’s a good way to have an embarrassing crash if they aren’t “second nature” yet.
On the semantics of clip, clipped, clipless, etc. etc.
Clip pedals = old school physical strap with a toe box “toe clip” on the pedal
Clipless = cleat mounts to bicycle specific shoe, cleat snaps into matching pedal
You can then classify clipless into two categories
Clipless SPD = mountain / “general use”
Clipless SPD-SL = road bike specific.
I’d suggest only riding trails (cross country / “XC”) on a flat pedal or a standard SPD clipless pedal.
On the semantics of clip, clipped, clipless, etc. etc.
Clip pedals = old school physical strap with a toe box “toe clip” on the pedal
Clipless = cleat mounts to bicycle specific shoe, cleat snaps into matching pedal
You can then classify clipless into two categories
Clipless SPD = mountain / “general use”
Clipless SPD-SL = road bike specific.
I’d suggest only riding trails (cross country / “XC”) on a flat pedal or a standard SPD clipless pedal.
Raced on flat pedals 99% of the time. Everything from tame O Cup courses to the Worlds courses @ Mte. Ste. Anne and Bromont. The key is the right shoes. Waffle rubber soles like Vans or wave like Lotek or 5*10s. 5*10 are magic. Same rubber as climbing shoes. You almost have to pull your shoes off the (right) pedals. Prefer parallelogram pedals like the OG Shimano DX BMX pedals or the newer DX. And I ALWAYS wore either neoprene+plastic shin pads or MX pants over Dainese Vikings when running flats. ALWAYS.
As far as hardtails + flats on trail rides. Use to ride down these stairs at the Queenston docks on a HT w. flats on trail rides on the escarpment in Niagara. Right pedals, right shoes, you're gold for pretty much anything you'll run into.
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Latest build, Picked up this 1998ish Giant TCR frame (aluminum) and original carbon fork for $60. Parts bin special after that (Dura Ace, Ultegra and some mountain bike XTR to make it climb+a semi compact crank....). I was shooting for sub 20 lbs and missed it by four ounces on the complete bike. Wheels and tires were on the cheaper/heavier side. It is really fast, rides great, climbs well, stiff yet very comfortable.
This is THE frame designed by Mike Burrows (used by ONCE, but theirs were yellow...) that changed all future road bikes, pretty much every modern road bike is its descendant. oddly enough, cyclists don't have a big love of things like this, either newest carbon...or old steel, nothing in between.
This is THE frame designed by Mike Burrows (used by ONCE, but theirs were yellow...) that changed all future road bikes, pretty much every modern road bike is its descendant. oddly enough, cyclists don't have a big love of things like this, either newest carbon...or old steel, nothing in between.
Attachments
I love aluminium. Has a great durability and 'weight' and it's less heart-attack inducing to the wallet if a fall happens.
From a technical perspective there is no reason aluminum can't be fixed (as displayed above). Ideally you need to proper TIG set-up (and potentially heat treating) and know what you are doing (and cost vs benefit of fixing vs replacing is a factor), both are beyond DIY for most. BUT for carbon fibre repairs you need to know what you are doing and there are lots of risks if you do not... Properly repairing carbon fibre in any strength situation is also a little more complicated than some DIY west-system epoxy and some mat...
They both have their upsides and downsides but carbon fibre is not as delicate as many think.
In the end though, if you have to toss the frame in the bin after a crash, I know which one will hurt less at the current price points....
They both have their upsides and downsides but carbon fibre is not as delicate as many think.
In the end though, if you have to toss the frame in the bin after a crash, I know which one will hurt less at the current price points....
7005 will age harden to T4. It can be artificially aged to T6
Good question. Locally there's Harv Cameron. Don't know if he's still going. I was rather suspicious of his welding. A lot of his Mantis Pro Floater knock-offs broke. There's Ivan Samila @ One Step Beyond. Builds off-road wheelchairs. He did a prototype Al dirt jump frame for a buddy and I back around 97ish, and an amazing DH wheelchair for a friend of an old GF's brother. Out of town there's Hugh Black @ True North Cycles in Fergus. He's good. Steel, Al, Ti, SS, AerMet.
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Nice bike. What's next? I know the lefty works, but damn, everytime I see one it just seems so wrong.My Scalpel is for sale if anyone is looking for an unbelievably fast XC rig. PM for info.
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