COVID and the housing market

Damn. That builder was unusual. Normally the actual cost has almost nothing to do with the price of the substitution. I know one subdivision where standard kitchen cabinets cost builder ~$25K. If you wanted kitchen without cabinets, you got a $1k credit. If you wanted upgraded cabinets, it was easy to get a six figure bill for upgraded cabinets.
Way back when I was involved in That industry the smart money took all standard items and lived with them then had them redone in a few years. The pricing for upgrades was more than just getting the house finished and doing them on your own later.

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Way back when I was involved in That industry the smart money took all standard items and lived with them then had them redone in a few years. The pricing for upgrades was more than just getting the house finished and doing them on your own later.

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Smart buyers limit upgrades at purchase to things that are impossible to do later. Higher ceiling heights, deeper basement, etc.
 
Damn. That builder was unusual. Normally the actual cost has almost nothing to do with the price of the substitution. I know one subdivision where standard kitchen cabinets cost builder ~$25K. If you wanted kitchen without cabinets, you got a $1k credit. If you wanted upgraded cabinets, it was easy to get a six figure bill for upgraded cabinets.
It was a small builder, 3 houses at a time. He was very reasonable, likely because the new house market was not on fire at the time. The upgrades I purchased were priced at his cost, he even let us work with and pay Canac kitchens directly on the cabinet upgrades.

My only beef with him was that he cut a dozen oak and cherry trees from the lot with the intention of selling them. I freaked. As compensation he paid to have the lumber sawn and dried - I ended up with a few thousand board feet of furniture grade lumber.
 
It was a small builder, 3 houses at a time. He was very reasonable, likely because the new house market was not on fire at the time. The upgrades I purchased were priced at his cost, he even let us work with and pay Canac kitchens directly on the cabinet upgrades.

My only beef with him was that he cut a dozen oak and cherry trees from the lot with the intention of selling them. I freaked. As compensation he paid to have the lumber sawn and dried - I ended up with a few thousand board feet of furniture grade lumber.
I knew a guy in Ohio that bought a house where a builder did the same thing, using the free wood on site. Twenty years later he needed a new roof and the roofer found out the hard way the roof deck was solid oak and they couldn't drive nails into it without pre-drilling.
 
I knew a guy in Ohio that bought a house where a builder did the same thing, using the free wood on site. Twenty years later he needed a new roof and the roofer found out the hard way the roof deck was solid oak and they couldn't drive nails into it without pre-drilling.
That’s not uncommon in rural builds. Way back that’s how houses were built. I once owned a house in Sharon that had 2x10 black walnut joists and 2x20x16 floor planking. Those were the trees they cleared to build the house.
 
It was a small builder, 3 houses at a time. He was very reasonable, likely because the new house market was not on fire at the time. The upgrades I purchased were priced at his cost, he even let us work with and pay Canac kitchens directly on the cabinet upgrades.

My only beef with him was that he cut a dozen oak and cherry trees from the lot with the intention of selling them. I freaked. As compensation he paid to have the lumber sawn and dried - I ended up with a few thousand board feet of furniture grade lumber.
When my buddy was building a 2000sqft garage at his cottage, he used all of the wood he cut to clear the land and made siding out of it. There was enough wood to install the siding on both the cottage, and the garage at the same time.

Looks awesome and it came out really nice. Not sure if he actually saved any money considering the wood had to be cut, milled, dried, and then painted (we all had a hand in that)...but the end result is great.
 
I found most of my joists have extra holes in them that line up. I wish someone paid for a string in them upgrade.
If I was building a new house, there would definitely be some large conduits running between strategic locations (with pre-installed strings). Terminations near electrical panel, in a closet on each floor, in attic, etc. Turns tasks that are a nightmare now to trivially easy.
 
When my buddy was building a 2000sqft garage at his cottage, he used all of the wood he cut to clear the land and made siding out of it. There was enough wood to install the siding on both the cottage, and the garage at the same time.

Looks awesome and it came out really nice. Not sure if he actually saved any money considering the wood had to be cut, milled, dried, and then painted (we all had a hand in that)...but the end result is great.
My brother was considering buying a mill to make his own lumber for projects. As almost everything needs permits and permits need graded lumber and rough sawn can't be graded, the project was dead in the water. He could make siding and wood for things that don't need a permit but it's hard to justify the cost of a mill for those tasks. Underwater forever.
 
My brother was considering buying a mill to make his own lumber for projects. As almost everything needs permits and permits need graded lumber and rough sawn can't be graded, the project was dead in the water. He could make siding and wood for things that don't need a permit but it's hard to justify the cost of a mill for those tasks. Underwater forever.
My dad had the bright idea of taking our old 100ft tree that was cut down at the cottage...and use a DIY 'mill' with a long chainsaw blade/chain...

It's soft wood, nobody wants it. There are 20 pieces (or more) of various lengths / widths at the cottage that I'm just going to start cutting and burning.

Waste of effort, time, and energy.
 
My dad had the bright idea of taking our old 100ft tree that was cut down at the cottage...and use a DIY 'mill' with a long chainsaw blade/chain...

It's soft wood, nobody wants it. There are 20 pieces (or more) of various lengths / widths at the cottage that I'm just going to start cutting and burning.

Waste of effort, time, and energy.
Make some rustic outdoor furniture. If it's awesome, sell it. If it's marginal, use it. Things like benches around fire pit, picnic tables, etc.
 
If I was building a new house, there would definitely be some large conduits running between strategic locations (with pre-installed strings). Terminations near electrical panel, in a closet on each floor, in attic, etc. Turns tasks that are a nightmare now to trivially easy.
When I do renos I always run 3 or 4” conduit from the main panel along side ductwork the up along the stack into the attic. Same when running to accessory buildings.

It’s come in handy a few times.
 
My brother was considering buying a mill to make his own lumber for projects. As almost everything needs permits and permits need graded lumber and rough sawn can't be graded, the project was dead in the water. He could make siding and wood for things that don't need a permit but it's hard to justify the cost of a mill for those tasks. Underwater forever.
Rough sawn and green lumber can absolutely be graded - I use tons of it up north -

As long as the mill has a certified grader, it’s all good.

I use it for renos on old houses to match true original dimensioned lumber, and occasionally on new builds.
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Rough sawn and green lumber can absolutely be graded - I use tons of it up north -

As long as the mill has a certified grader, it’s all good.

I use it for renos on old houses to match true original dimensioned lumber, and occasionally on new builds.
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I was doing a job at a kiln one time and they said that they only graded after drying and planing. That must have been company policy. The point stands for a backyard mill though. Building departments don't use brains, they look for stamps. Getting someone in to grade your lumber to build your project is a financial disaster.
 
I was doing a job at a kiln one time and they said that they only graded after drying and planing. That must have been company policy.
Large commercial mills grade after planing and drying. Small mills that serve remote areas or do custom milling will grade and stamp green, rough sawn lumber for local markets.
The point stands for a backyard mill though.
Yup. I don’t think there are graders that freelance backyard milling.
Building departments don't use brains, they look for stamps. Getting someone in to grade your lumber to build your project is a financial disaster.
They do. Stamped rough cut might confound a Toronto building inspector because they never see it. An inspector in Huntsville, Sudbury or Cochrane … not so much.
 
At one point this was part of my business , large mills use scanners that grade the lumber , defective pieces get cut out and end up in finger jointed two x lumber . Small mom and pops can hire a grader or send someone out to be trained . It’s actually not hard with softwood lumber . I’m a certified veneer grader , it was a one day class .
Large unsurfaced timbers and joists can be graded and are . There are so many thousands of uses for ungraded lumber that most small mills won’t bother . The challenge for inspectors in many locals , liability, they need to see a grade stamp .
A big challenge developed with Mennonites building barns and out buildings with ungraded lumber. Other farmer says look what they get away with , I have to pay thousands , they just mill their own , Black hat guy says “ I not going to put a joist that looks like a fail in my barn , we have been doing this for hundreds of years. .” They are both right .
Hardwood lumber is always graded in the rough .
When we operated our mill we specialized in #three and #four industrial lumber upgrades , cut the crappy part of #three it becomes #four . When you’re making truck loads of floor joist cross braces , it doesn’t need to be pretty.


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When I do renos I always run 3 or 4” conduit from the main panel along side ductwork the up along the stack into the attic. Same when running to accessory buildings.

It’s come in handy a few times.
3" EMT........Christ are you planning on putting in a new 350A service in your house? You can run 96 x #14 wires in a 3" conduit (before de-rating). Just make sure you use EMT and not PVC in your house as an inspector will fail your inspection (if you have an open permit).

I just ran a string up my pipe chase to get to the second floor - never used it in 15 years. When running underground to out buildings I always recommend running an extra 1" conduit for just in case, but truthfully so many things are controlled wirelessly now (security and lighting control) the only other thing one might need something is for a hot tub or as EVSE close to an out building
 
but truthfully so many things are controlled wirelessly now (security and lighting control) the only other thing one might need something is for a hot tub or as EVSE close to an out building
The vast majority of my security stuff is hardwired. Too easy to jam wifi if you are up to no good.

3" does seem big. As you aren't supposed to run power and signal in the same conduit, I'd rather had a pair of 1" conduits.
 
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