Those little dowels that align covers are also great for falling down inside an engine.
What did you do in your garage today..?
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What became of the pipe? Lawn art?
I got shot in my garage.
I had a worn out fuel pump on the shelf, waiting for garbage day, looking just like the one below......
I was ~5' away from it, sitting down, and heard a "pop", and I was hit in the shoulder by one of the soft rubber covers on the output side. Ima gonna be ok.....lol...
I had a worn out fuel pump on the shelf, waiting for garbage day, looking just like the one below......
I was ~5' away from it, sitting down, and heard a "pop", and I was hit in the shoulder by one of the soft rubber covers on the output side. Ima gonna be ok.....lol...
Replaced my soft roll up cover with a hard tri fold and rails…still needs some adjustments as I can’t see holes but once that’s buttoned up maybe the water resistance will be better.
May keep the roll up for the time being just in case I don’t like this setup.
May keep the roll up for the time being just in case I don’t like this setup.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
My favorites drop is cam keepers down the cam chain slot.
Thanks! I’ll have to muck around with it to seal all the gaps, but that’ll come with time as I get used to it.
The real challenge is finding a suitable rack. The ELEVATE system is stupidly expensive ($1400 all in), and I’m hoping to find used for $600-700.
Not many racks work with the T-slot / rail mounting.
Nice cover and I’ve heard their warranty/customer service is very good (I have their Revolver X4S). Their rack system does go on sale just check around.
Bought this one used with the CS rails from Truxedo for a decent price ($600).
Now looking for a compatible rack, and the ELEVATE rack is super nice...but expensive.
I've considered this rack, but not sure how it holds up:
Cheap DIY bed rack that works with tonneau cover
I've been looking for the cheap bed rack which will work with my Truxedo pro x15 for the last two years. And didn't find anything. Truxedo cs is the most popular option here, but still 900 USD +. The other racks doesn't work with the cover. So I found this simple solution on the jeepgladiator...
www.mavericktruckclub.com
Looks like a good alternative.Bought this one used with the CS rails from Truxedo for a decent price ($600).
Now looking for a compatible rack, and the ELEVATE rack is super nice...but expensive.
I've considered this rack, but not sure how it holds up:
Cheap DIY bed rack that works with tonneau cover
I've been looking for the cheap bed rack which will work with my Truxedo pro x15 for the last two years. And didn't find anything. Truxedo cs is the most popular option here, but still 900 USD +. The other racks doesn't work with the cover. So I found this simple solution on the jeepgladiator...
My only concern is holding up in the wind...but I may be over thinking it.
I’m not a real fan of jerryrigging stuff like this but it does seem simple enough. The legit one is indeed pricey but you’d fetch a good amount back on resale when/if time came.
Relax
Well-known member
Probably too late to the party (still can't access GTAM without VPN). I don't remember if this was my specific issue, but when my Odyssey doors stopped working, it was the rollers and Odyclub had a DIY using <$1 nylon spacers from Lowes Wasn't a bad job at all, either. I'd check Odyclub to see if it's the same problem, unless you've had it fixed by now.
Thanks!
Mechanic said the inner mechanism seized up because it hasn’t been lubed up.
However my wife literally just called me to tell me the door isn’t closing…I told her to set it to manual and she was able to close them by hand.
Will dig further when she gets home.
2004 ZX10R that I've owned since new. Closing in on 152 000 km.
Right rear turn signal stopped working. It has done this before. First time it was the connector that went bad, and defied attempts to clean up its internal contacts. I replaced the connector a while back. A couple weeks ago it stopped working intermittently, but resumed when unplugged and plugged back in again. A couple days ago it stopped working again, and this time, upon fiddling with the connector, the ground wire broke off. It broke next to the connector, not in the connector itself.
Arrgh. De-pinned the connector, pulled the remains of the broken wire out of the pin, stripped the insulation off the end of the ground wire, prepared to reconnect the pin to the end of the wire ... and I dropped the pin. On this bike, the rear bodywork extends underneath the tail section, which means the pin dropped into the gap underneath the tail section and the top of that bodywork panel. I don't have a spare pin. Retrieving the pin means disassembling the rear bodywork. Arrgh. In the process of doing so, one of the tabs on the bodywork broke off. The tail-section bodywork is notoriously flimsy on this bike ... this is the ZX10R generation that was built too lightly. I've already been in there before to reinforce it, obviously not well enough. I knew this bodywork-repair chore was coming up ... there has been a visible crack in the bodywork there for quite a while.
I now know a bodywork-reinforcement method that I didn't know the last time around. The trick is to buy a piece of ABS plastic (ABS plumbing fittings work) and dissolve it in acetone, and apply that in layers. I've already stuck the broken tab back on using acetone to dissolve the plastic. Now I'm going to reinforce it with layers of ABS home-made "glue". But, looks like that'll have to be tomorrow. Takes a while for the acetone to fully dissolve the chunk of ABS.
Anyhow, the electrical pin is now re-attached to the end of the wire and the connector is put back together. This time, I'm going to zip-tie the connectors in place, secured to the subframe so that they can't shake around separately from the bike as a whole.
Right rear turn signal stopped working. It has done this before. First time it was the connector that went bad, and defied attempts to clean up its internal contacts. I replaced the connector a while back. A couple weeks ago it stopped working intermittently, but resumed when unplugged and plugged back in again. A couple days ago it stopped working again, and this time, upon fiddling with the connector, the ground wire broke off. It broke next to the connector, not in the connector itself.
Arrgh. De-pinned the connector, pulled the remains of the broken wire out of the pin, stripped the insulation off the end of the ground wire, prepared to reconnect the pin to the end of the wire ... and I dropped the pin. On this bike, the rear bodywork extends underneath the tail section, which means the pin dropped into the gap underneath the tail section and the top of that bodywork panel. I don't have a spare pin. Retrieving the pin means disassembling the rear bodywork. Arrgh. In the process of doing so, one of the tabs on the bodywork broke off. The tail-section bodywork is notoriously flimsy on this bike ... this is the ZX10R generation that was built too lightly. I've already been in there before to reinforce it, obviously not well enough. I knew this bodywork-repair chore was coming up ... there has been a visible crack in the bodywork there for quite a while.
I now know a bodywork-reinforcement method that I didn't know the last time around. The trick is to buy a piece of ABS plastic (ABS plumbing fittings work) and dissolve it in acetone, and apply that in layers. I've already stuck the broken tab back on using acetone to dissolve the plastic. Now I'm going to reinforce it with layers of ABS home-made "glue". But, looks like that'll have to be tomorrow. Takes a while for the acetone to fully dissolve the chunk of ABS.
Anyhow, the electrical pin is now re-attached to the end of the wire and the connector is put back together. This time, I'm going to zip-tie the connectors in place, secured to the subframe so that they can't shake around separately from the bike as a whole.
In the past I have sometimes made ABS paste by combining ABS chips and filings with glue; mix it all up. You can also melt slivers of it onto a cracked or broken piece using a soldering gun, effectively welding it. I've also cut ABS pipe along its length and heated it up in the oven until its pliable, then put it flat between two pieces of plywood until it cools and hardens. Now you have flat sheet ABS that you can make lots of things out of.
This a great idea! What type of glue do you use to make the paste and how long until it sets or dries up?
Just the standard ABS plumbing pipe cement. Its cheap. You don't have much time to apply it before it sets up. I've made loads of things out of ABS. With the flat stock you can add pieces like gussets and stiffeners by gluing pieces together.
