What did you do in your garage today..? | Page 131 | GTAMotorcycle.com

What did you do in your garage today..?

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Speaker swap should be a few beers DIY project.
Harder part will be sourcing the correct ones that you want.

Back in highschool a friend of mine made a custom made speaker box for a 12 inch square speaker. Some super duper amp to go with it.

This was in a 1996 mom's Suzuki Swift.
It barely for in the back and each time she wanted to go grocery shopping, he needed to take it out.

Pulling up to a tims in a blasting Swift was a little weird.
 
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Speaker swap isn't hard. Find someone that has done it before. Does car use common size speakers? Do you need spacers to fit new speakers? On a previous car, I needed to bring the speakers 1" inboard to make room for the larger basket a d magnet. Trim clips holding doors together are a prick the first time until you learn where they are, the tricks to release them and the force required.

I have a set of decent 6.5" speakers with separate tweeters and external crossovers that end up in some of my cars. I swap back before selling. Rear doors normally get 8" subs in place of the 6.5 factory speakers but for obvious reasons, those are a more finicky install.

Amp install isn't hard but it is more complicated than a speaker swap. On that note, look at Crutchfield for your options. Their kits come with plug and play adaptors so you could probably plug new speakers into the existing wires with no actual wiring required by you. Otherwise you need to come up with a way to connect your speaker expecting bare wire or spades to a factory harness with plastic and pins.
 
mimico_polak said:
Amazing! I’m more curious as to how you figured out what the issue was?

For me the hardest part is identifying the issue.
Click to expand...

I've been hearing a lot of clunking recently but not when I go over bumps. Last year I replaced the front struts so I didn't think that was the problem.

I did some Googling for 2007 Toyota Camry front end clunk noise and eventually found it's likely the motor mounts. When the car accelerates from low speed or a stop, the torque from the mighty Camry engine causes it move because the mounts are worn.

I replaced the easiest one at the top of the engine. It was three bolts. The bottom and the two at the side are a bit more difficult but I can do it.
 
BEFORE:
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DURING:
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AFTER:
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There is one more piece to go on the tank in front my my big belly.
It is slightly to wide by .5mm-1.0mm on each side than I would like it to be. Not putting it on for now. May trim it down when I get my hands on a good X-Acto blade and steady hand.

Order this kit from eBay as it was fairly priced and would arrive before my 3 day ride.

Motorcycle Anti Slip Protection Stickers Tank Pad For SUZUKI V-STROM DL1050 XT | eBay
 
oioioi said:
BEFORE:
View attachment 62863

DURING:
View attachment 62864:

AFTER:
View attachment 62865

View attachment 62866

There is one more piece to go on the tank in front my my big belly.
It is slightly to wide by .5mm-1.0mm on each side than I would like it to be. Not putting it on for now. May trim it down when I get my hands on a good X-Acto blade and steady hand.

Order this kit from eBay as it was fairly priced and would arrive before my 3 day ride.

Motorcycle Anti Slip Protection Stickers Tank Pad For SUZUKI V-STROM DL1050 XT | eBay
Click to expand...
No excuse for chicken strips now.....
 
Snazzing up the wr. Ali-Express sticker kit.

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Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
 
Wind Shear said:
GP came through, fedex delivered on a Sat.
Maybe it took the speed boat from Italy.

New clutch in and grabbing good again

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august is over, italians are going back to work again.
 
Carb on KTM still not right. Set float level to 8mm per JD Jetting recommendations as it was at 6mm from the factory. Gas pours out of bottom tube overflow when on sidestand and it floods engine if sitting more than a few minutes plus was running rich (loading up). Set it back to 6mm and it still does these but not as bad (running fine now, not loading up). May drop it another 1mm and see if it fixes it but it's annoying me and the carb is a pain to get out of the bike to keep doing changes.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Carb on KTM still not right.. .........Gas pours out of bottom tube overflow when on sidestand
Click to expand...

I know nothing specific about KTM carbs, but I'd be checking your float, the pivot pin, the retaining clip for the needle, the needle and the valve seat.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Carb on KTM still not right. Set float level to 8mm per JD Jetting recommendations as it was at 6mm from the factory. Gas pours out of bottom tube overflow when on sidestand and it floods engine if sitting more than a few minutes plus was running rich (loading up). Set it back to 6mm and it still does these but not as bad (running fine now, not loading up). May drop it another 1mm and see if it fixes it but it's annoying me and the carb is a pain to get out of the bike to keep doing changes.
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I have a carb here from a 14 if you want it. I replaced it with a lectron


Sent from the future
 
Scuba Steve said:
I have a carb here from a 14 if you want it. I replaced it with a lectron


Sent from the future
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Thanks. This one has always worked perfectly so I'm sure it's something small and easy to fix but my knowledge is limited on carbs so I may just send it to someone in the offseason to give it a look over. It runs fine now, just have to turn the fuel off if I stop for more than a minute so it doesn't flood itself.
 
Oil change,tranny and final drive on the Ural. What a breeze! Half hour, all done.
We will be doing about 500km this weekend going to see my brother up at Lagoon City.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
Thanks. This one has always worked perfectly so I'm sure it's something small and easy to fix but my knowledge is limited on carbs so I may just send it to someone in the offseason to give it a look over. It runs fine now, just have to turn the fuel off if I stop for more than a minute so it doesn't flood itself.
Click to expand...
Kinda sounds like a needle valve or valve seat issue. Could be some crud preventing the cone of the needle from sealing against the seat, or possibly the o-ring on the seat leaking.

Mikuni has a youtube video about leaking needles:


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image from: https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-spe...MIv4bxpaCn6AIVh5OzCh0xhAMTEAQYAiABEgKpZvD_BwE
 
KLR Junkie said:
Kinda sounds like a needle valve or valve seat issue. Could be some crud preventing the cone of the needle from sealing against the seat, or possibly the o-ring on the seat leaking.

Mikuni has a youtube video about leaking needles:


View attachment 62961
image from: https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-specialties/needle-and-seat-for-mikuni-hsr-42-45-carb-1050-0390.p174504.prd/174504.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=csecid=6821162156&aid=76472566741&keyword=825836634616::pla-825836634616&kid=825836634616&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv4bxpaCn6AIVh5OzCh0xhAMTEAQYAiABEgKpZvD_BwE
Click to expand...

Yup, I had the same problem with a Mikuni which was solved with a new needle valve and cleaning the seat. Visually, the old needle valve looked fine, but the old one leaked and the new one didn't. You can get genuine Mikuni parts from Winners Circle: Snowmobile, Motorcycle, ATV and Watercraft - winnerscirclecanada.com
 
KLR Junkie said:
Kinda sounds like a needle valve or valve seat issue. Could be some crud preventing the cone of the needle from sealing against the seat, or possibly the o-ring on the seat leaking.

Mikuni has a youtube video about leaking needles:


View attachment 62961
image from: https://www.denniskirk.com/drag-specialties/needle-and-seat-for-mikuni-hsr-42-45-carb-1050-0390.p174504.prd/174504.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=csecid=6821162156&aid=76472566741&keyword=825836634616::pla-825836634616&kid=825836634616&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv4bxpaCn6AIVh5OzCh0xhAMTEAQYAiABEgKpZvD_BwE
Click to expand...

Ash said:
Yup, I had the same problem with a Mikuni which was solved with a new needle valve and cleaning the seat. Visually, the old needle valve looked fine, but the old one leaked and the new one didn't. You can get genuine Mikuni parts from Winners Circle: Snowmobile, Motorcycle, ATV and Watercraft - winnerscirclecanada.com
Click to expand...
Yes I figured it was a worn needle or o-ring which are both common for my carb to go bad so google told me. I bought new one's as well as a new seat from JD Jetting who provide a better/thicker o-ring for this carb and installed them. Problem better but still persists.
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