Installed a new pair of shoes on my bike. It made a very noticeable difference, the braking is amazing and switching directions is noticeably easier.
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What did you do in your garage today..?
- Thread starter Hack
- Start date
No more pics of that bike, I have low will power.Installed a new pair of shoes on my bike. It made a very noticeable difference, the braking is amazing and switching directions is noticeably easier.
Here it is disassembled. Seat, gas tank and battery and there you have it! Full access to each valve cover in the vertical cyl:
Horizontal cylinder with belt covers already off and sitting at TDC. You can see prior marks on the belt (crank pulley lined up with mark on housing.
A little extra work was required to access these valve covers, removing the air ducts for oil cooler and surprising to me, the regulator/rectifier (seen moved and hanging on the other side with gr/y/r wires). It also sits front and low with its own air duct. Pretty smart place for it to keep cool.
Vertical belt, same marking (before removal)
Old Gates belt. Decent shape, the slightest of fraying starting on the edges. Felt a little dried out. Some of my reference markings in white.
Old plugs. Great shape, but replaced anyway since I had them.
No more pics unfortunately as I got into the zone and wasn’t planning any kind of step by step.
Valve clearance spec:
Openers 0.10 - 0.15mm both intake and exhaust
Closers 0.00 - 0.05mm both intake and exhaust
My notes are not on hand, but my lowest opener was 0.12 and highest was 0.15. Lowest closer was 0.02 and highest 0.05.
These are looser than the old school of thought (0.1 opener and 0 closer with no drag on cam), but ok with me.
A few notes/tips:
- Remove the belts to check valves. It’s just easier when you can free hand turn the cams.
- There is no way to access the vertical belt on this model without removing front/horizontal exhaust header. It’s too tight to get any wrench in there let alone proper torquing the tensioners.
- Many online claim success setting belt tension with iPhone frequency measuring apps. I tried a few and couldn’t get any good results. Caved in and used the allen key between belt and pulley method instead.
**edit: here’s my measured specs for reference
Horizontal cylinder with belt covers already off and sitting at TDC. You can see prior marks on the belt (crank pulley lined up with mark on housing.
A little extra work was required to access these valve covers, removing the air ducts for oil cooler and surprising to me, the regulator/rectifier (seen moved and hanging on the other side with gr/y/r wires). It also sits front and low with its own air duct. Pretty smart place for it to keep cool.
Vertical belt, same marking (before removal)
Old Gates belt. Decent shape, the slightest of fraying starting on the edges. Felt a little dried out. Some of my reference markings in white.
Old plugs. Great shape, but replaced anyway since I had them.
No more pics unfortunately as I got into the zone and wasn’t planning any kind of step by step.
Valve clearance spec:
Openers 0.10 - 0.15mm both intake and exhaust
Closers 0.00 - 0.05mm both intake and exhaust
My notes are not on hand, but my lowest opener was 0.12 and highest was 0.15. Lowest closer was 0.02 and highest 0.05.
These are looser than the old school of thought (0.1 opener and 0 closer with no drag on cam), but ok with me.
A few notes/tips:
- Remove the belts to check valves. It’s just easier when you can free hand turn the cams.
- There is no way to access the vertical belt on this model without removing front/horizontal exhaust header. It’s too tight to get any wrench in there let alone proper torquing the tensioners.
- Many online claim success setting belt tension with iPhone frequency measuring apps. I tried a few and couldn’t get any good results. Caved in and used the allen key between belt and pulley method instead.
**edit: here’s my measured specs for reference
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What, is this a voting thing?
I'll take bevel springers for the win Alex.
Is bitzz short for bitzzosaurus?
Took my swingarm to my neighour who has a few hotrods, looking for help to remove stuck needle bearings. He tried to knock them out with a hammer and rod and then tried to basically destroy the bearing so we could pull it out.
Unfortunately what is left is the outer sleeve (race?) of the bearing which I think is corroded in good. Because the swingarm bore narrows behind the bearing I can't get anything behind it to push it out, so I think I am stuck trying to pull it out. Unfortunately, the sleeve is only *maybe* one mm thick so I am worried it's going to be hard to get a puller to grip it strongly enough on the backside to pull it out.
Ordered a blind bearing puller set from Amazon and crossing my fingers.
Unfortunately what is left is the outer sleeve (race?) of the bearing which I think is corroded in good. Because the swingarm bore narrows behind the bearing I can't get anything behind it to push it out, so I think I am stuck trying to pull it out. Unfortunately, the sleeve is only *maybe* one mm thick so I am worried it's going to be hard to get a puller to grip it strongly enough on the backside to pull it out.
Ordered a blind bearing puller set from Amazon and crossing my fingers.
Has heat been tried yet or just bigger hammers? Aluminum or steel swingarm? Painted?
That's what I was afraid of. I have quite a few triangular files, I think for sharpening woodworking saws - will they be able to cut through the hardened steel of the race? I also think there is a fairly high chance the thing is corroded to the bore.
@GreyGhost Swingarm is steel, and painted. I have been heating it up and regularly applying penetrating oil in preparation for whatever I end up doing next. I stayed away from further hammering because I am worried about damaging the bore, mostly because there was some damage to the widest part of the bore from my neighbour's hammering. Fortunately I think the damaged part just sits under the oil seal.
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Easy way to find out. It will either cut or skate across. Try a few different files if the first one skates.
Nothing crazy but trying to figure out the best way to mount my newly acquired rokstraps.
love the things but my bike has the worst hook up capabilities. I can access the frame by removing the seat for one strap
Passenger footpegs are too far upfront
The x are where im strapping it currently
But i wonder if id be able to use what i circled in yellow and make it come out the back
Next season i might invest in some softbag but for this season im just trying to macgyver it a bit
love the things but my bike has the worst hook up capabilities. I can access the frame by removing the seat for one strap
Passenger footpegs are too far upfront
The x are where im strapping it currently
But i wonder if id be able to use what i circled in yellow and make it come out the back
Next season i might invest in some softbag but for this season im just trying to macgyver it a bit
You could grab a short length of 1" or 1.5" nylon webbing strap and two D rings. Lay the strap across your circled area, sandwiched down under the existing bolts and washers, with a D ring attached at both ends of the strap so that the rings protrude out just under the lip of the seat.
Pullers are going to come tomorrow so I'll give them a shot. I think @bitzz will be right and there isn't enough of the race for them to catch, but if that fails I guess I go the files. I don't want to try the files now for fear that I might somehow compromise the ability of the pullers to work.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Reed valves . TRUMPED.
... I don't get it.
Reed valves are misogynous traitors?
All my reed valve are well behaved.
Mad Mike
Well-known member
If it's a sleeved roller, it will have a vee cut lengthwise and the sleeve will be hard and springy. If this the case, you can find the cut with a small pick, then tap a chisel under the lip and it will peel free.
If it's a Torrington style caged roller, the cage will be relatively soft, a sharp chisel will cut the sleeve,
You don't want to yse enough brute force to bend or distort, but font be afraid of sharp chisels. Scoring the inside of the swingarm us no big deal... bending it is.
Run a bead of weld on the inside of it and it will almost fall out when it cools.
Sent from the future
Mad Mike
Well-known member
Yeah, one of my new favorites. I use to to heat bolts and stuck bearings with oxy/acetelene... today I use my MIG... faster and cheaper.
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