This and That | Page 13 | GTAMotorcycle.com

This and That

Thanks @TwistedKestrel
I'll run the VIN tomorrow just in case, but I found out earlier that the US & CAN run different headlight systems, and I don't think CAN vehicles were included.

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Whoops, didn't see you already had that covered off. You've been busy!
 
Joe Bass said:
Nothing on the underside of the cover.
Did the relay swap as per GG and did not work.
Probably would've been unlikely that both relays went at the same time.

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That must have been a US specific fuse box pic I posted...sorry.

Based on your pic, and GG’s link, the electronics are quite different.

While you’re in the underhood fuse box, double-check the 2 20amp fuses in slots 43 and 45 are okay.

Then move on to the switch. You could test it for continuity with a multimeter.


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Robbo said:
That must have been a US specific fuse box pic I posted...sorry.

Based on your pic, and GG’s link, the electronics are quite different.

While you’re in the underhood fuse box, double-check the 2 20amp fuses in slots 43 and 45 are okay.

Then move on to the switch. You could test it for continuity with a multimeter.


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Click to expand...
If Joe is feeling confident in his electrical knowledge, I would be tempted to pull a relay and jumper power into the lights to prove that downstream of the relay is working properly. That eliminates the melted harness gremlin. If he isn't feeling confident, don't do it. You may let out smoke than cannot be put back.
 
Robbo said:
That must have been a US specific fuse box pic I posted...sorry.

Based on your pic, and GG’s link, the electronics are quite different.

While you’re in the underhood fuse box, double-check the 2 20amp fuses in slots 43 and 45 are okay.

Then move on to the switch. You could test it for continuity with a multimeter.


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Click to expand...
Don't even mention it.
I appreciate all the help.
I didn't realize that there were differences (hoping that the DRL) is the only one.

Both fuses are good.

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GreyGhost said:
If Joe is feeling confident in his electrical knowledge, I would be tempted to pull a relay and jumper power into the lights to prove that downstream of the relay is working properly. That eliminates the melted harness gremlin. If he isn't feeling confident, don't do it. You may let out smoke than cannot be put back.
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I think just using the multimeter will be on the edge of my abilities lol.
Not going to attempt anything more than that.

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My mechanic took it today.
Double checked everything I did, then did the multimeter check.
Everything is good.
He's worried it is the harness.
I have an appt with Honda for tomorrow.
They will be running a diagnostic.
Hopefully won't have to sell my other Honda to pay for this.

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So my mechanic is worried that it just might be the wiring harness.
Very strange if it turns out to be that, and there's a recall on it in the US.....my guess is it's in the $1500 range for this..... I'm not a happy camper atm.

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Joe Bass said:
So my mechanic is worried that it just might be the wiring harness.
Very strange if it turns out to be that, and there's a recall on it in the US.....my guess is it's in the $1500 range for this..... I'm not a happy camper atm.

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Is it just the lights or does the failing harness cause more issues? I would be inclined to wire up lights with my own harness. Depending on where the harness issues occur, this could be two switches under/on the dash, two relays and a bit of copper or you may be able to eliminate some of these devices if it is just a fault between the relays and headlights.

EDIT:
Another possibility (although often not a great idea, it depends on budget and life expectancy of car) is to steal power from a working circuit that you can control. On my cousins car (she had no money and it was a crap car), the rad fan circuit quit. I checked the power available and hooked her rad fans up to her headlights. Headlights on in traffic and you are fine. That worked for years until she got rid of the car.

In your case, you might be able to steal from the A/C clutch? A/C on = headlights on. No additional switches required in cab. Obviously a little more work required if you need high and low. If the A/C clutch pulls a lot of power, you could use that circuit to trigger a relay to power the headlights. It's the concept not the details that's important.
 
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GreyGhost said:
Is it just the lights or does the failing harness cause more issues? I would be inclined to wire up lights with my own harness. Depending on where the harness issues occur, this could be two switches under/on the dash, two relays and a bit of copper or you may be able to eliminate some of these devices if it is just a fault between the relays and headlights.
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I think I know what you are saying, and I actually was wondering about it myself.
The vehicle will be driven to the ground, so no worry about resale value and the Frankensteining of it.

Problem is I'm not sure:
A) how to accomplish it, or even if I would be able to
B) if the harness has other issues

My mechanic noted that when hibeams were left on, they started to dim.
Some US vehicles reported burning/ smoke coming under hood from the relay.

Also, would the new switch and relays also control taillights?

Tbh, I'd like to find a way to bypass DRL and set up full lighting 100% of the time, as I like having the rear lights on as well.

I'm thinking that would be a much less expensive and easier solution.

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dealer will I expect do nothing but tell you to replace the harness
labour on that will be nasty

I agree with GG's idea
someone with a schematic, a meter and some wire could get this working just fine
 
J_F said:
dealer will I expect do nothing but tell you to replace the harness
labour on that will be nasty

I agree with GG's idea
someone with a schematic, a meter and some wire could get this working just fine
Click to expand...
Totally agree and worried as well.

Anyone know if there is negotiating prices on diagnostic tests?
Am I missing something or are they charging me for a mechanic's labour while they hook it up to a machine and work on another vehicle?

I found a parts vehicle and can get the combination switch fairly cheap...may just grab that and try to swap depending on what Honda says.

The only good thing, I think, is that even with this repair, it still only puts me at
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Joe Bass said:
Totally agree and worried as well.

Anyone know if there is negotiating prices on diagnostic tests?
Am I missing something or are they charging me for a mechanic's labour while they hook it up to a machine and work on another vehicle?

I found a parts vehicle and can get the combination switch fairly cheap...may just grab that and try to swap depending on what Honda says.

The only good thing, I think, is that even with this repair, it still only puts me at
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I do not like how much most shops charge for a code scan. Owning a VW, you expect many lights through the life of the car, most of which are unimportant. Buying a scanner pays for itself many times over. In JB case, this is likely not an OBDII diagnostic (there is a small chance it flags light malfunction but won't point to why). This is a mechanic with a multimeter or logic probe following wiring and buzzing it out to isolate the problem.
 
GreyGhost said:
I do not like how much most shops charge for a code scan. Owning a VW, you expect many lights through the life of the car, most of which are unimportant. Buying a scanner pays for itself many times over. In JB case, this is likely not an OBDII diagnostic (there is a small chance it flags light malfunction but won't point to why). This is a mechanic with a multimeter or logic probe following wiring and buzzing it out to isolate the problem.
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Then that would justify the charge.
Hopefully I get lucky and they find it in the first hour.

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I want to say thanks to all who helped me out with the Pilot issue.

If I had a little more time and didn't need my vehicle for a road trip next week I would have continued on to the combination switch....which ultimately was the issue.
They also inspected the harness because of the US recall. They (I think) soldered something that looked like it might cause an issue in the future, and put diametric grease (is that correct?) on some areas.
They had also wanted to install a new DRL module but didn't as everything is working.

Shout out also to Number 7 Honda for working with me to get this done with the least amount of damage to my wallet.


I'm also fairly confident that this will not be the last time that I seek wisdom from the great minds of GTAM.


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Glad to hear your issue was resolved Joe.

Hoping everyone can provide similar assistance for me.

2008 Ford Edge
The daytime running lights quit working along with some of the dash lighting. Some of them work intermittently. Quick scan of fuses seem to be ok. Unsure about relays.

Just hoping someone has some input as I haven’t been able to dig in any further yet.


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SVeezy said:
Glad to hear your issue was resolved Joe.

Hoping everyone can provide similar assistance for me.

2008 Ford Edge
The daytime running lights quit working along with some of the dash lighting. Some of them work intermittently. Quick scan of fuses seem to be ok. Unsure about relays.

Just hoping someone has some input as I haven’t been able to dig in any further yet.


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Some of the dash lighting? Intermittent? That doesn't sound good. Sounds like a a broken wire that occasionally closes (or a rubbed wire that occasionally shorts). Do you have a light sensor that used to control the dash lights and DRL?
 
GreyGhost said:
Some of the dash lighting? Intermittent? That doesn't sound good. Sounds like a a broken wire that occasionally closes (or a rubbed wire that occasionally shorts). Do you have a light sensor that used to control the dash lights and DRL?
Click to expand...

Kinda what I was thinking and hoping to be wrong. There is the sensor for the automatic lights to turn on and I’m leaning towards that but, sometimes the radio display cuts out entirely so I fear this is going to be a horrible one to track down.


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@SVeezy I would think that with so many different things all cutting out, you should start with a main power or ground that connects to all of those things....but I'm guessing.

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Actually a very good point. I recently had to pull the battery and didn’t have a post cleaner so did a hack job with screwdriver and sandpaper. You JB might be on to something! Fingers crossed


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