Thinking of trading my V-Strom 650XT for the new Himalayan 450 – need your thoughts!

OP - most of the throttle locks slip - the bar ends ones don't but I find them awkward to engage.
Oddly enough this cheapy seems to hold best with friction tape.

You should get checked for carpal tunnel which is an easy test to arrange. Surgery is while you wait these days and a couple of weeks to heal....it is very non-invasive.

BTW are you a member at StromTrooper?
and also ADVRider?
@MacDoc thanks for the tips on the throttle lock. I got mine from Amazon USA after trying all other options. I tried KAOKO, Atlas Throttle lock but none fitted my bike because of the Oxford heated grip (Atlas doesnt fit) and the bar end weight (KAOKO doesnt fit). I will try the Aliexpress one if i keep the bike for next season. And no i am not a member of Stormtrooper not ADVRider (which i read though). May be its time to join. I have been trying to register with this site since last year but kept getting banned due to my VPN.
 
Some thoughts:

Weight seems to be an issue stopping you from off-roading, so don't move from your 476lb V-Strom to another bike in the same weight class (460lb Transalp, 450lb T7, 460lb KLR650, 474lb Tiger 800Xcx). A 25lb weight loss is negligible and will do nothing to ease your trepidation, no matter how much more travel suspension or ground clearance you're going to gain. If anything, the increased seat height will make you more fearful of venturing off the pavement.

I think you should try to learn dirt on a much lighter bike. Don't worry about tubed/tubeless, cruise control, etc. right now. Focus on skills development and comfort. Take a lesson at TrailTours or Clinton Smout's Smart Performance Centre.

If you can afford it, pick up a much smaller dirt-oriented thumper dual-sport, like a WR250, CRF300L, KLX300, 250 XCF to learn on. These bikes are in a totally different weight class (ranging from 250-325lbs) and will make you feel much more comfortable in the loose stuff. Picking the bike up when you inevitably drop it will not be an issue, especially when you are riding solo. These bikes also survive drops a lot better than big-bore, multi-cylinder adventure bikes, not incurring as much damage or costing $$$ to fix in the event of an off. All this leads to much better learning environment as you push the envelope of your comfort level instead of always being scared of dropping your heavy, expensive adventure bike.

These off-road riding skills that you're building are 100% transferable from small bikes to larger bikes. You can go back and forth from your thumper to your V-Strom to measure your progress and try new skills that you've picked up on the smaller bike. This will also educate your butt on what makes a motorcycle good off-road as you move back and forth from a dirt-bike-oriented suspension to a street-biased one. When you go shopping for your next big-bike, you will know exactly what to look for on your test ride.

What this will eventually lead to is your ability to take much larger bikes off-road, which will also provide a more comfortable ride on pavement. I have much more confidence riding my 550lb R1250GS in dirt because of the time I spent learning on a 250lb enduro. Being comfortable on a larger, heavier bike will open your shopping list up to motorcycles that will also have the technologies you're looking for, like factory cruise control and cross-spoked wheels that terminate at the lip so you can run tubeless tires. Features that smaller bikes may not have as standard.

Speaking of, while you're at it, learn how to change an inner tube.

I know you're hesitant about going tubed, but the BDRs you are aspiring to ride carry a high risk of denting a rim, especially when you're a newb and you're not adept at making your front end lighter with the throttle to hop over rocks and obstacles that you can't easily avoid.

Denting a rim and losing air on a forest service road is not a critical event - you call CAA and they will come out and tow you out.
Denting a rim on the SoCal BDR means either fixing it yourself, or paying for a very expensive 4x4 rescue service to climb rocks to bring your bike out.

My buddy dented a rim on his 1290 Super Adventure R with tubeless wheels on the WABDR, which is considered to be one of the easiest BDRs to tackle. Like you, he thought his chances of denting a rim was low, so he didn't carry tubes or irons. Luckily I was, so we were able to get him out from the middle of nowhere back to civilization ourselves without calling for an expensive tow.

Tubes are not old technology. They are synonymous with off-road. I have dented rims on all my off-road bikes. It can even also happen on paved roads with potholes, especially when you are traveling through developing countries... or Quebec. Tubes also allow you to drop the air pressure to very low psi for increased grip in loose surfaces without risk of the tire unseating off the bead.

You can certainly run a tubeless tire for most of your travels so you're able to plug holes with an easy-to-use plug kit, but I'd always carry a tube and irons as a backup, so you can ride away from a dented rim when you are riding solo and out of cell service range with no one around to help you. Cultivating self-sufficiency in the event of *any* malfunction, no matter how low the odds are, is a critical skill when riding off-road solo.

There are other technologies like Tubliss and mousse which mitigate having to change a tube, but they come with their own disadvantages. Tubes are tried and true and are a universal fix all around the world. I had a puncture in India, a guy in straw hut nearby fixing kid's bicycles took off my wheel and tire and patched my tube for $0.50 while we went off and got a drink.
First of all, let me express my gratitude to you for taking the time to write such a detailed and thoughtful response to my original question. Hats off to you Sir!
Couple of feedback about me: After getting my license in April last year, I bought the Strom a week later and rode 5000km to Gaspe - New Brunswick, Halifax, Bar Harbour (Maine) - Sherbrooke and back to GTA. That was my first time riding a “big” motorcycle. In my 20’s (outside of Canada), I had a Honda CB125 for 2 years and sold it. After that in summer 2024, I put another 5000km on the Strom mostly on road in the GTA area. I was itching for some off-road and I planned a trip to Morocco in November last year. Before the trip, in September, I went to Clinton Smout school and took half-day off road riding lesson. The trainer told me that I already have the basics and instead of teaching the basics again, he took for one hour ride off-road on different terrains (sand/single tracks). I was on a Honda 250ish. After that I gained some confidence and once in Marrakesh, I rented a Voge Rally 350 and rode across the Atlas mountain to the Sahara desert, then the anti-Atlas to the Atlantic Ocean in Agadir then back to Marrakesh. I had lot of fun off-road. The bike was perfect(light) for sand riding but on the road it was not that great though it did the job. I had anxiety about getting a flat during the entire trip as it was a tube tire. All this to say that I did what you are recommending “trying to ride a smaller bike to boost confidence”.

I do see the point about the BDR and the risk of denting a rim. I am thinking maybe I should try joining a group, riding off-road and who are willing to be patient with me :)

One pattern I observed from multiple research is that even though I dislike tube, at some point I will have to learn how to change one, as many have pointed out that even with tubeless, there are scenarios where having a tube handy may help me getting out of a situation. Agree with your “self-sufficiency” point as I try to live by that motto as much as possible.
 

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I have been reading and pondering over everybody's responses and as i expected we are all different riders with different abilities, preferences, tolerances etc and at the end of the day i will have to make a decision on what works best for me. The dork in me was curious to see what an AI tool think about all your responses, so i curated a prompt with all your responses and asked couple of AI and below is one of their response (warning: it is a long read but interesting nonetheless):

Critical Analysis of the Forum Responses​


Here’s a breakdown of the themes from the riders’ advice, and what the risks/opportunities are — from the perspective of long-distance travel, simplicity, and “reliable enough everywhere”:
  1. Weight vs. Capability Trade-off
    • Several users (Lightcycle, Hardwrkr13) emphasized that while reducing weight is valuable, it's not magical: going from 25–35 lbs lighter (as claimed for the Himalayan 450 vs V-Strom XR) may not dramatically change the maneuverability when fully loaded.
    • Lightcycle’s point: “what makes a bike good on the trails makes it bad on the tarmac, and vice versa”. That resonates strongly — for a one-bike solution, compromises are unavoidable.
    • Mad Mike suggests considering two bikes: a lighter thumper to learn dirt, and keep your Strom (or similar) for highway touring. This is a classic “skill first, then choose based on what you learned.”
  2. Use of Aftermarket Cruise Control
    • You said you see cruise control as a must (especially for long interstates). Some forum members pointed out you can add aftermarket cruise control (mechanical or electronic) for many bikes. Lightcycle mentions the Veridian Cruise for Himalayan 450 and a throttle lock.
    • However, there are trade-offs: installing aftermarket CC may affect warranty (“will void the warranty right away,” per you), and more electronics could mean more points of failure on a global trip.
  3. Skepticism About the Himalayan 450
    • Reliability: Several riders are cautious. For example:

      “Just expect to have some mechanical issues and bad customer service” Reddit
    • Build quality concerns:

      “Engine problems … electrical issues … very, very bad … on just 20,000 km” per a Redditor Reddit
    • Chassis risk: Some claim a handful of cracked frames (though small proportion):

      On a thread, one user says: “there have been 4-5 cases of chassis breaks … the risk is next to negligible.” Reddit
    • On the flip side, others love it: one person: “the bike … is the best in the price bracket for adventure tourers … the 450 … does not have any significant issues.” Reddit
    • Maintenance frequency / intervals: According to Team-BHP, service is every 5,000 km / ~6 months, with alternate services being lighter. Team-BHP.com
    • Some practical issues: seat adjuster rubber wears, loose spokes, tappet noise, difficult valve adjust / mechanical work. Reddit
  4. Tubed vs Tubeless Debate
    • You lean strongly toward tubeless, prioritizing convenience and minimizing the hassle of tubes.
    • But other voices push back:
      • x r joel argues tubed is more reliable in remote/off-road conditions, for example because tubes are universal, easier to patch, and more resilient to rim damage:

        “Tubed tires … are synonymous with off-road … I have dented rims on all my off-road bikes … Tubes also allow you to drop pressure … without risk of the tire unseating …” Reddit
      • Lightcycle also suggests carrying some tube + irons even if you run tubeless — to guard against worst-case failure (rim dent, big cut, plug failure).
  5. Learning Dirt on a Smaller Bike
    • A few very seasoned riders strongly recommend learning off-road skills on a lighter thumper first (WR250, CRF300L, etc.) rather than swapping to a slightly lighter ADV big bike. This is solid advice: for solo single-track or bumpy, remote forest roads, the confidence and skill matters more than how “light” your ADV is.
  6. Alternative Bike Suggestions
    • Aside from Himalayan, users mention: KTM 390 Adventure R, CFMoto Ibex 450, BMW F450GS (if you're willing to wait), Yamaha Tenere 700. Suggestion of KLR because of simplicity:

      “If I planned on exploring the world … it’s hard to best the KLR … easy for anyone to fix … throttle by wire, cruise control … can end your journey with a tipover.” (argument being that over-complicated electronics can make things worse off-road) Reddit
    • Also, you noted interest in the Kove 800X Pro, which some mention as promising (with tubeless, better suspension).
  7. Psychological / Emotional Factors
    • Some users try to coax you: “Just do it and don’t question it … if you don’t like it … just get something else.” (nakkers) — emphasizing that trying is part of learning.
    • The discussions reflect a mix of fear of breaking something, fear of being stranded, but also desire for freedom / low friction maintenance. This tension is very real for long-distance travelers.
 
Ai response continues:

Insights & Synthesis (Statistical / Analytical Perspective)​


Putting all of that together, plus what we know from the 2025 ADV landscape, here are some key take-aways & risk assessments:


  • Risk of Reliability / “Unknown newness”: The Himalayan 450 is relatively new; while many early adopters are positive, there are non-trivial reports of mechanical issues (engine, chassis, bolts). From a long-distance travel perspective, this risk is not negligible, especially in remote areas with limited RE service.
  • Maintenance Cost / Simplicity: Himalayan is relatively simple (single cylinder, moderate displacement), but the ease of finding parts and doing field repairs will depend heavily on RE's parts network in your travel regions.
  • Comfort vs Agility: The V-Strom is heavy but very stable; moving to something much lighter helps in loose terrain but may cost you comfort and highway stability.
  • Tubeless vs Tubed: While tubeless is more convenient, remote travel may favor tubes + spare. However, several modern ADV bikes offer spoked tubeless wheels (which combines strengths): this seems like the ideal compromise.
  • Electronics: You prefer ride-by-wire (good) and possibly cruise control (must). Ride-by-wire opens the door to ride modes, better throttle mapping, and aftermarket cruise control. But more electronics = more points of failure, which is a trade-off on a global route.
  • Skill Investment: Several experienced riders strongly recommend refining your off-road skills before fully committing to a lighter one-bike solution — especially for remote / technical trails.



What to Look for in Your Next Motorcycle (for Your Goals)​


Based on your goals (global travel, ease of maintenance, adventure capability, minimal headaches), here’s a prioritized checklist of what to look for, and why:

  • Moderate weight + good ground clearance: Enough to handle loose and forest roads, but not so heavy that dropping it is a major disaster.
  • Spoked, tubeless wheels: To balance off-road resilience with the convenience of tubeless repair.
  • Ride-by-wire throttle: Gives you flexibility (ride modes), and allows for aftermarket cruise control if needed.
  • Adequate fuel range: Long-range tank or efficient engine so you’re not always chasing gas in remote areas.
  • Simple engine architecture (or widely supported brand): Either a simple twin or single (or a platform with good parts network), so repairs are manageable far from big cities.
  • Serviceability / parts network: Consider how easy it is to get spares for your chosen motorcycle in the places you plan to travel.
  • Aftermarket support: Good crash bars, skid plates, luggage — being able to bolt on reliable gear is key.
  • User-reported reliability + community knowledge: Lean on owners’ feedback, but also test ride & inspect.

Top Motorcycle Recommendations for You (As of 2025)​


Given your criteria + the forum insights + market research, here are several bikes that stand out as very good or potentially great for you (plus trade-offs):


  1. Yamaha Ténéré 700 (2025)
    • Ride-by-wire (YCC-T), two riding modes (Sport / Explorer) Yamaha Motorsports+1
    • Switchable ABS and traction control. Yamaha Motorsports
    • Long-travel suspension (event for Rally version) rallykits.com
    • Spoked 21"/18" wheels (so can mount tubeless tires) ADV Pulse
    • Very reliable twin (CP2), proven in many markets. Reviewers praise its simplicity and robustness. Motorcycle News+1
    • Downsides: no cruise control factory, but you could add aftermarket; some report menu/navigation quirks. Reddit
  2. Royal Enfield Himalayan 450
    • Lightweight (relative to big adventure bikes), quite manageable off-road per forum.
    • Ride-by-wire (confirmed in spec sheet). Royal Enfield+1
    • Very simple single-cylinder engine, relatively easy to maintain if RE parts network supports your travel route.
    • Risks: reported mechanical issues, possibility of chassis stress, and mixed build quality feedback.
    • Tubed wheels (stock) → not aligned with your preference, but you could carry a tube + plug kit.
    • Offers good value, but maybe more suited for mixed-adventure + moderate touring, rather than ultra remote high-speed highway runs.
  3. Kove 800X Pro
    • Very light for an ADV of ~95 hp. Kove Moto USA
    • 21"/18" spoked tubeless wheels — aligns with your tubeless preference. Kove Moto Canada
    • Ride modes (ECO, SPORT, RAIN) and modern electronics. Kove Moto Canada
    • Low center of gravity (fuel tank under seat) helps with loaded stability. Kove Colorado
    • Potential downside: newer brand, so parts / service network may not be as mature globally; resell / support risk.
  4. BMW F 850 GS
    • Very strong engine, good power for highway + loaded touring.
    • Has ride-by-wire (“E-Gas”), riding modes, and modern electronics. Wikipedia
    • Tubeless wheels (cast or cross-spoke depending on model). According to specs, cross-spoke tubeless. Wikipedia
    • Excellent long-distance touring pedigree, strong parts network, high reliability if maintained, though maintenance cost will be higher (BMW premium).
    • Downsides: heavier, more complex, more expensive maintenance, parts may be expensive.



My Recommendation (In Bullet Points)​


  • Don’t rush to trade your V-Strom just because you want “lighter” — its weight gives you highway comfort and stability.
  • Test ride: prioritize the 2025 Ténéré 700 — it seems to check many of your boxes (ride-by-wire, good off-road, reliability, parts).
  • If you like the feeling of simplicity and want something very manageable off-road, also test the Himalayan 450, but go in with eyes open: bring a mechanic friend or inspect build quality, torque bolts, etc.
  • If you want something newer / more niche, Kove 800X Pro is very compelling for its modern design + light weight + tubeless. But investigate local dealer / parts support carefully.
  • Practice off-road: seriously consider riding a much lighter bike (250–300cc dual sport) for a season to build confidence. The learning payoff will be massive — and may change what you ultimately choose for a long-range ADV.
  • Plan for redundancy: whatever bike you pick, carry minimal but vital gear: plug kit, maybe a spare tube, torque wrench, basic toolkit, critical spare parts (if your route is remote).
  • Consider aftermarket cruise control: if your selected bike lacks it, assess whether adding Veridian or mechanical throttle lock is worth the warranty trade-off.
 
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