Ride Report - 2022 Smoky the Dragon | GTAMotorcycle.com

Ride Report - 2022 Smoky the Dragon

shanekingsley

Curry - so nice it burns you twice
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Time for another Deals Gap Ride Report!
Rode down between May 7-18 for 12 days of twisty madness. The goal this time was to ride down to the Ironhorse Motorcycle Lodge and meet up with a bunch of fellow VStrommers. Ideally I would spend 5 days getting there on mostly new-to-me twisty backroads, then ride around the Smoky's for 3 days and ride then home over 4 days on different backroads. In total I rode over 7000km along mostly twisty backroads and had the trip of a lifetime. Lot's of links to sweet roads mapped out throughout.

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Before leaving on this trip I had researched a lot of great twisty mountain roads to explore (i.e. hidden gems) and plotted out some pretty intricate routes that stitched together every single good suggestion that came my way. I even ponied up the coin to buy the America Rides Maps which highlight a lot of local roads within the Appalachians that I wanted to explore, as opposed to riding the same old ones again and again, like the Back of The Dragon, The Snake, etc.... I prefer very tight and technical roads with steep elevation changes and banked corners, instead of fast moving sweepers. So now my routes were starting to look like this:
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My bike was a 2010 VStrom 650 with around 75,000km. It was totally prepped and ready for the trip with full luggage, aftermarket suspension, Corbin seat, Hwy pegs, hardwired GPS and so much more. It simply ran like a dream. I had just installed a Delkevic exhaust on it which sounded really nice. But as fate would have it, I was heading out to grab a burger and on my way there I hit one of my neighbours who lives about 15 houses away! He had a massive Lincoln Town Car that was driving ahead of me. He crossed the centre line and appeared to be making a left turn onto a side street, but in fact he was making a very wide right turn into his narrow driveway. Unfortunately he didn't signal and when he had well crossed over the centre line, I started to go around him on the right, because there was enough room for a whole car to drive by. But then he made a hard right turn into his driveway and we collided since I was past the point of no return. It was still totally my fault as I should have waited for him to complete his action.

My bike hit his passenger door and bent the forks, which the insurance appraiser said would cause it to be a total write off. The other driver only had liability on his car and had only bought the vehicle 2 weeks ago! He was a really nice guy and we joked that we should have drinks together after this is all sorted out. Anyways since it was all my fault, at least his car will be covered for repairs and he has kept me updated along the way that things are working out good for him - all things considered. My premium will go up due to the at-fault claim, so it's not worth it to save my bike due to age and mileage and cost to repair. I'll take the payout and maybe buy a fancy bike I've always been dreaming of later in the season. No injuries to me since I wasn't going that fast and I always wear full gear, other than a nice deep cut down to my shin bone that was just above the top of my boot. Needless to say, I was disappointed, because the black VStrom was the perfect bike for this trip.
The bike I was going to ride down:

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So now what? Is this a sign? Should I cancel the trip and stay home and do some gardening? Or help my wife take care of our new puppy aka Jethro "Destroyer Of Nice Things" or rather Jethro Don't!
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I recently bought a 2003 FZ1 in mint condition that I can ride down, but I only have a stock seat for it which will not work for such long days, so if I can get a good aftermarket seat, it will be perfect. I also have touring luggage & new rubber for it, so it seemed like the motorcycle gods were telling me that I should move on from the lowly Suzuki's and get down with the Yamaha's.
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Strangely enough and just a week before I smacked my bike, a friend asked me what I was doing with my old orange VStrom. It has 160,000km on it and the last time I rode it was down to Deals Gap in July of 2019. After that trip, I bought the low mileage black bike and gave the orange one to my brother to practice with. For a variety of reasons he never rode it, so it just sat for 3 years. So when my friend asked about it I said for sure you can have it and we got it picked up and taken to his house only 4 days before I crashed the black one. It still rode fine and was just in need of some love to be fresh again.

When I crashed the black bike and was seriously thinking about taking the FZ1 down, I was having a lot of trouble getting a good aftermarket seat in time for this trip and wasn't looking forward to doing many long days on that stock seat. I told the new owner of my orange bike about my dilemma and he suggested I should take the orange bike to use for the trip. And once I come back, I can just give it to him to enjoy. Great idea! So with his help, I transferred most of the goodies from the black bike to the orange bike and I was prepped and ready to roll. Needless to say it was a very busy week before I left, with long days at work and long nights working on the bikes. Compared to my black bike, the suspension would suck, the brakes sucked and it burned oil, but it should do this trip just fine... I think. All prepped and ready to go - still looks pretty decent for 160k on it!

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The ride down was going to be on pretty challenging roads and about 11-13 hours each day. Another rider from Buffalo wanted to join and ride these entire routes with me. What kind of madman wants to ride 5 days with me is anyone's guess, but I gave him fair warning of how I ride and how long the days would be. Riding one of these routes is not that difficult, but to do these day after day requires a little something extra. We talked over Zoom a few times and I found out that he rides a 2014 VStrom 1000, is an experienced rider, had the same GPS as me and was fine to eat at Subway for lunch!
Say hello to Harmut!
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I filled up in the morning and thought... with gas prices rising so much lately, I should note how much gas is now and see just how much it goes up by the time I get home. It was $1.82/l when I left and $2.06 when I got home!

Day 1: Mississauga to Harrisonburg VA - https://goo.gl/maps/nDrL1FzUwDGkmYzu5 - 830km / 10:30hrs
We knew this was going to be the least pleasant day of riding. It was going to be raining from 10am onward, and around 5-10deg all day, so we didn't want a really long day being cold and wet. From a riding roads standpoint, this was also the least interesting day, but it still had a bunch of decent roads in it near the end. We would take the 219 down through NY and PA and then hop off in search of some different roads in the Virginia's. The goal was to just get as far south as possible and look forward to the next 4 days.

The two steeds:
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Once we were south of Pennsylvania, the roads start to get much more interesting and if this was the least interesting day, this trip was going to be amazing. It was so refreshing to ride the nice roads of the Virginia's, which are remarkable for smooth pavement with great twisties and scenery. It almost felt like being in a deciduous rainforest at times.
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One of the best things about riding down south is the pavement quality. While Ontario has some really nice scenic and twisty roads to ride, generally speaking the pavement quality is really poor, with frost heaves, potholes and tar snakes all over the place. It seems like in the Virginia's and in the Smoky Mountains there is a regular and significant investment in the road maintenance, so even really good quality roads are routinely paved over. The result is insanely twisty roads with flawless pavement:
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It was quite cold. I think we were riding in temperatures around 2-3 degrees and the rain was pretty heavy at times. We made it to our first motel with a bit of time to spare and it was a great first day of riding overall. The views are pretty good too and the elevation changes start increasing with every mile south we ride:
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Day 2:
Harrisonburg WV to Radford VA Super 8 - https://goo.gl/maps/BzbjoHhSwLNSvTao9 ~750km / 11hrs

Today starts the exploring of some hidden gems., but this is just a warm up to the next 3 days. Hartmut and I had some GPS navigation issues that slowed us down on the first day, but we slowly got these things figured out and the routes started getting easier and easier to follow as planned. Every morning we wake up at around 6am and are ready to ride by 7am. We fill up the night before, so we can ride for a few hours in the morning without stopping. Today we start by taking the 33 to the 250 and across the 66, all of which makes for a great combo to wake you up in the morning.
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Because of all the mountains, it's really common to have the roads meander along rivers to one side and waterfalls flowing on the other side:
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We pass through the town of Cass WV, which was really weird - all the houses had no one living in them and they all looked exactly the same. It really felt like something out of a Stephen King novel.
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From here we head over to and ride up Snowshoe Mountain which I had read was a short ride up a mountain that was surprisingly pretty built up at the top with tons of ski village type developments and some awesome views. The road wasn't as technical as I expected since it only had a few switchbacks, but it was a really beautiful ride to the top.
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Once you get to the top, it's really nice! The views were stunning and I can see why this is a popular spot. It was super windy up here though! I would definitely recommend the ride up to the top.
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We then make our way down to the New River Gorge. I'd been there before but when I was last here the road to the bottom was closed for construction. This time it was open and it's another pretty neat ride with many spots to take in the views of the bridge and the gorge. The road is a one way road that is narrow and very twisty. By now the sun and blue skies were coming through and the day was warming up really nice.
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After the New River Gorge, we make our way over the the VA311 which runs south from White Sulphur Springs. This is one of my favourite roads which was introduced to me on a previous trip. It's such a perfect blend of super fast elevation changes and banked corners - it's one of the few roads that really lets you work your tires from edge to edge the whole way through with flawless pavement. It's much more twisty than the map would have you believe.
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As we end our day I'm constantly reminded of how much I love riding between the mountains and the valleys with the endless farmland and greenery around. That's actually a really high mountain ridge in the background.
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wow, interesting way to start the trip, glad you're ok though.

as for cass WV, it looks like someone is cutting the grass
 
Today was going to be a pretty amazing day! First off, we were going to try and complete a 500km route of twisty roads by 3pm, so that we could try to run a second route of 300km in the evening, which was a loop from our motel and back. When I was planning the day out, I'm always looking for cool places to stay and when I saw that there was a town called Lebanon, I thought I needed to stay there, considering I've travelled through Lebanon on a Middle East trip I did 10 years ago. A few less pictures taken today because we spent more time riding than stopping.

Day 3 Morning: Radford VA to Lebanon VA Super 8 - Super 8 by Wyndham Radford VA to Super 8 by Wyndham Lebanon - 500km / 8hrs
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Day 3 Evening: Lebanon / Appalachia Loop - Super 8 by Wyndham Lebanon to Super 8 by Wyndham Lebanon - 275km / 4hrs
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We start our morning off with a mountain climb to some pretty awesome views. We are going up Mountain Lake Road to Mountain Lake Lodge. Usually any road with the name "Mountain" in it is going to be pretty dope. One of the cool things I like about using the MyRouteApp planner is that I can toggle between different types of map views. Whenever I think there is a good road heading up a mountain, I'll often quickly check to see what the terrain is like and then also use an aerial view to see if it's paved or gravel. Mountain Lake Road:
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From here we head over to a road I had read about that was supposed to be super twisty. It's called Indian Valley Road and it didn't look like much on the map, but it was super amazing. Very highly recommended. It had tons of tight corners with steep hills and could be linked up with other roads in the area to make for some pretty good loops. I happen to like roads that also have a lot of blind corners and intersecting streets, because they force you to keep your speed down a touch and also keep you on your toes. This is one of those roads and was one of the highlights of the whole trip so far:
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Next up we make our way over to Robinson Tract Rd, or State Route #738. I have seen it many times on the map and there is this little twisty section, but it always seems kinda out of the way and I wasn't sure if the pavement was any good etc. Well all I can say is that it was flat out amazing! I can't believe I skipped this one so many times. It was so tight and twisty and super hilly with tons of switchbacks and no traffic at all. The road is one that you can get into a beautiful rhythm on with the repetitive banked corners. There's two small mountains here with a valley in between, so the whole thing is done in under 10 minutes. So that's a ton of up and down in such a short time. If we weren't on such a tight timeline, I would have just done it over and over again. And that's exactly what I'm going to do the next time I'm down there. Can't recommend this one enough. Just be mindful that the section of #738 that continues north is gravel - only the southern section I linked above is paved.
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The north entrance to Robinson Tract Road. It looks so unassuming, but it's anything but.
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Now we are off to Burkes Garden. I have seen it many times on the map, but I always bypassed it and made my way over to The Back of The Dragon instead, because they are only about 15 minutes apart. I had read that it was a twisty road going up and then a big plateau valley up above that was Amish or something like that. Some older info I read about this road was that it had very poor pavement and wasn't worth it. There is only one way in and out and we did a big loop:
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When we came to the entrance of this road, there was a train of Ford Mustangs that was just coming down. That's usually a good sign that the road is fun. And it was was amazing! Just like Robinson Tract Road earlier. Very tight, technical and tons of hilly corners. The plateau up above was interesting and they had a store and an art gallery or something. Horse and buggy's going about and I'd spend more time there next time I head down. At least the entrance run up and down is a must do from now on for me. Lot's of hairpin turns:
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Then we head over to the Back of the Dragon (VA#16) and ride it 2x. It has had a lot of the corners repaved recently and they did a really poor job of blending the existing pavement with the new pavement, so there is constantly a bump as you enter the turn and a bump as you exit the turn. Considering this road is a pretty big tourist draw for the area, I'm surprised they did such a poor job. There's enough turns that haven't been repaved that it's still a phenomenal road, but there are a lot of repaved corners which really disrupt the pace and flow. There are a couple really nice spots to take in the views however, which never disappoint!
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To get to our motel in Lebanon VA, we try out a road called Hayter Gap Road or VA#80. It's looks pretty twisty on the map and I was pretty stoked to check it out. It was way more bumpy in the corners than I would like, so it was hard to really move on this road. Maybe if I was on a bike with better brakes and suspension I'd ride it a bit quicker, but not today. What can I say - hayters gonna hayte.

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Looks unreal, what a route. Do you plan those routes on a computer and you can send it to a GPS unit?
 
Looks unreal, what a route. Do you plan those routes on a computer and you can send it to a GPS unit?
That's exactly how I do it.
When I pull it up on the GPS unit, I now make sure to view both the Route (pink line) and the Track (black line). This way if the GPS unit tries to take a shortcut (which it often does), then I can choose to either follow or ignore the pink only line (shortcut) or follow the black line to stay with my original plan.
This pic shows it perfectly, where the blue is what I have already ridden, the pink by itself is what the GPS just recalculates and is suggesting and the pink+black is the route as I plotted it.
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Day 3 Evening:

@STARSHIP had suggested to check out the road that runs north from Appalachia. That was only an hour or so away from Lebanon where we were staying, so I was hoping to check it out if we had enough time. All I really wanted to ride was the road that connects Appalachia to Cumberland, but since we were here, I thought I would make a larger loop out of it and ride some other stuff, but the GPS is saying 5 hours... I gotta say at this point that Hartmut's shoulder was bothering him. He was a trooper for never complaining and always willing to keep going, but still riding within his limits and not trying to keep up when his shoulder was acting up. I asked him if he still wanted to skip this evening route, because it was somewhere between 4-5 hours and it was already past 3pm and we barely took any breaks today. He was all for it, so off we went!1653159681976.png


This is the #160 that heads north out of Appalachia and crosses into Kentucky.
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The terrain looks awesome!
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It was so worth it to ride this road. The pavement was in impeccable shape, with wide lanes and really fast corners. It has some really nice views and there was next to no traffic. The rest of the loop route was okay, but nothing too amazing, so I would only add this one #160 road into a route in the future and maybe ride it as an out & back. The best part was finally stripping the bike of all the luggage and carving the corners feeling so much lighter. Can't wait to do the same at Deals Gap.
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We pulled over at this one lookout spot and just looking in the distance was nothing but hills. We marveled at just how many amazing roads there must be buried under this canopy of green.
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Looks awesome! Sorry for the ****** start of the adventure…but looks good moving forward!

Enjoy and be safe!
 
Glad to see you didn't let a minor detail like writing off your bike just before the trip slow you down. Sounds like a great trip.
I've said it before "if you don't pay for people's healthcare you can afford to build nice roads"
 
Day 4 Morning: Lebanon VA to Poga Rd TN - Super 8 by Wyndham Lebanon to Poga Rd - 215km / 4:15hrs
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Day 4 Afternoon: Poga Rd TN to Black Mountain - Poga Rd to Days Inn Columbus NC - 325km / 6hrs
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The twistiest day cometh!
We rode the VA 80 south first thing in the morning and it felt like a smoother ride heading southbound. We headed over to the US 58, also known as the Jeb Stuart Highway. US 58 is a stunning and fast moving road with little in the way of elevation changes, but really nice corners and great pavement. I've taken this many times, so we decided to skip it this time and try something different.

We took a complete surprise of a road, which was Whitetop Rd, leading to Whitetop Mountain. It really doesn't look like anything special on the map and we only had included it as a connector to get to some other fun stuff, but it was actually one of the highlights of the day. It's got amazing pavement and just keeps climbing and climbing like the way the Cherohala does. It's got wide lanes and really nice fast curves. We stopped near the top and you can see in the distance a bunch of hikers heading out along the Appalachian Trail with big backpacks on - probably for some multi day hiking.
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At some point we were riding along and I saw this tree. Even from a distance I could see the leaves were the same as a Rhododendron, but didn't know that these came in the form of such large trees. This thing was massive! Rhodo's line the Blue Ridge Parkway and are found in tons of the forests down in the Smoky Mountains. They typically bloom around mid June at the higher elevations, and even have a very large Rhododendron festival in mid-late June near Roan Mountain (http://www.roanmountain.com/rhododendron-festival/)- we did get to see some some pretty amazing ones blooming at much lower elevations.
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After this we continued southward and checked out Hwy88. Hwy 88 between Warrensville NC and Trade TN was an awesome road with fast sweepers and lots of nice corners. Not that technical, but great nonetheless.
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In previous trips I've stayed in Boone NC and know that the area is really beautiful, especially the Linville Falls Highway between Blowing Rock and Linville. Even the Blue Ridge Parkway along this stretch is really stunning. When I took a closer look at the map I also saw a bunch of other roads around Boone worth checking out. So I skipped the usual suspects including the NC226A (The Diamond back) and the NC80 (The Devil's Whip).

Georges Gap Rd is well worth the visit with plenty of technical corners and elevation changes. It's located on the north side of Boone and while it might be short, it really is sweet. We did it as an out & back since it was worth doing twice:
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Next up we head to the south side of Boone.
 
The south and southwest side of Boone has a bunch of amazing roads that I've never explored, because I always seem to take the US221 or the Blue Ridge Parkway here.

So first up is a stretch that connects Russel Norris Road (I immediately thought of Chuck Norris and realized I must ride this road), Beech Mountain Road and Hickory Nut Gap Road (not sure who comes up with some of these names). This whole combo was really twisty and well worth it. We also did a road called Poga Road to get over to Russell Norris Road, but I would suggest skipping Poga Road cuz it’s bumpy and not that good.
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From here I had read that there was a fun road called Shulls Mills Road which is directly south of Boone and would connect us to the US221 right at the best part where the waterfalls begin, which we then took all the way over to Linville for lunch. Shulls Mills Road was a fabulous road and I would highly recommend it!
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We snake our way over to the Asheville area by taking Bat Cave Road to check out the NC9 - Black Mountain. What an amazing combo of roads and I'm definitely including this one in very trip down south. Bat Cave road was pretty tame for the northern section, but the closer we got to NC9, the better it got. I also felt it’s important in life to check out a road called Bat Cave Road, so here we are. NC 9 is a short mountain climb with impeccable pavement and non stop corners for a 10 minute stretch. Seems like not much of twisty time, but it's super easy to include this in with Bat Cave Road for an overall route and it will put a smile on your face every time you run it. We did NC9 twice because it was so nice. Some guy on a KTM naked tried to keep up with me, so I had to show him not to mess with the mighty VStrom:)
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We arrived at our motel around 5pm and we knew that tomorrow was going to be a long day to get over to the IronHorse. So I thought it might be a good idea to do a nearby mountain loop that we were going to do first thing in the morning. This way we would have a nice dry mountain road tonight and shave a bit of time off tomorrows route. This one is truly one of those hidden gems. How's this for a nightcap?
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It was great again to drop all the gear and ride this without all the extra weight. And better still is that it was literally 5 minutes away from our motel. Looks like there was a sand truck that recently went on this road and dropped some sand in a couple of the corners, but it was really easy to pick a line and stay on the clean pavement. And there were hundreds of corners without sand. With more time, I would just ride this loop again and again. Some pics from this spectacular road.
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Tomorrow we finally make our way to the Ironhorse Motorcycle Lodge.
 
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Looks to be a fantastic trip so far Shane. My wife has family in Flat Rock, NC (and formerly Asheville). We’ve stopped in to visit on route to Florida. Sadly, I’ve never been down there on a motorcycle. Clearly, I need to change that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Shane,
Amazing ride report. So many good roads, thanks for sharing. I'm gutted about your vstorm. So much work done and all gone. That suspension work and the delvic itself would have made it a completely different bike to ride. But glad that you didn't let that get in the way and carried on with your trip. Bright side like you mentioned, maybe another cool bike :)

Time to give this thread a proper read. Hope you have an amazing trip ahead. Cheers!
 
Day 5 Morning: Days Inn Columbus NC to to Barnardsville NC - 200km / 4hrs
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Day 5 Afternoon: Bernardsville NC to Ironhorse Lodge - Barnardsville to Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge - 370km / 6hrs
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I'm so glad we did that amazing mountain run last night. That allowed me to actually run it 2x - once in each direction and not feel rushed. When I woke up this morning I wasn't sure if there was anything else I could ride that could match that road. But as it turns out, the first road we did this morning was pretty damn good! Enter Green River Cove Road - only took about 5 minutes to run this, but was it ever amazing and zero traffic.
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Just now as I was writing this I came across this website - 17 brutal switchbacks on Green River Cove Road - if only I known about this before, I would have based more of my trip around it:)

From here we make our way over to another nice combo which is Cabin Creek Road which leads to Pinnacle Mountain Road. This was typical flawless pavement and really nice curves. Most of these areas are mixed residential, so there are a fair number of driveways and side streets to be mindful of, but it's still really easy to have a ton of fun on them at very sane speeds.

After this we came upon a total surprise of a road which I absolutely loved. It's called Jeter Mountain Road and it was so smooth and curvy that I was thinking it should be called JLo Mountain Road. Considering how close this one is to Brevard and the NC276, NC215, and the Blue Ridge Parkway, this is one I would add for sure as part of a larger route.
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One thing that really freaked me out was Grant Mountain Road. I picked it because it was a simple connector road and looked paved when I checked it out on aerial views. However once it clears the built up area and starts the mountain twists and turns, it turns to gravel and might be a private road. It wasn't that the gravel was very difficult and it was only for a few km, but anywhere else the roads turned to gravel there was always ample signage to give you the heads up. But here, there was no warning signs or any heads up, and the gravel starts just at the entry to a corner after a fast straightaway on what was an otherwise really nice road. If you are moving at a fun pace, it's very easy to lose it and go over the mountain edge, while you are admiring the mountain peaks in the distance, especially if you are on street tires. The gravel starts at the area on the right and then you go down the mountain. I'm glad I brought extra underwear on this trip!
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The next one I was completely blown away by was Double Island Road. This one is a total sleeper of a road and a total hidden gem. Crazy twists and turns, very technical and a fair bit of very sharp & blind corners for some added complexity. I absolutely loved this one and never knew about it, because just to the east is the NC80 which displays more prominently on the map and is an awesome road in it's own right. From now on I would combine this with the NC226A and the full NC80 to make one super fun route:
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Next we make our way over to check out a few more hidden gems. Insert Grapevine Road, Big Laurel Road and Revere Road. Just flat out fun on these ones too.
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If you are ever doing the 209/212 combo also known as The Rattler, then think about adding in Lonesome Mountain Road for some added fun. It's not very far from Hot Springs and is worth the little detour.
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Now we make our way over to the Ironhorse. It was a pretty amazing 5 days of riding to get here and Hartmut is done. We get there around 5pm and are staying in one of the newer covered wagons tonight. They are pretty pricey, but it was good to check them out. They are a little too cozy to stay in there again with some burping, farting, snoring guy, but they do also have ones with singe queen sized beds, which would be perfect for my wife and I, because she's used to my burping, farting and snoring:)
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I'm not quite done yet, so I decide to do a quick rip to the end of the dragon. My bike has been giving me a few electrical issues and I might need to spend a day sorting them out before the long trip home. This dragon run consists of one of the best parts of NC28 and the US129. My GPS says it's around 1hr to the end of the dragon.
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So off I go and it's a perfect night. It's a Wednesday evening and I remember that these are the best times for the locals to run the roads. As I'm riding the dragon I come upon one of the hairpin turns and a group of guys come flying in the opposite direction going what felt like 2x as fast as I was and running the hairpin so smoothly and insanely quick. They seemed to be all on super nakeds or supermoto's. I'm going as quick as I can on the road given the limitations of myself and my bike. At one point I look in my rearview and there is a pair of headlights behind me, so I quickly pull over to let him pass. He goes by and I watch him take the corners and it's a thing of beauty, because riding behind him for just a few corners I learned so much about body position and corner lines. There's only so much you can glean from watching it on a screen, but to have someone much more proficient at riding taking the exact same corners just ahead of you, helps by leaps and bounds. I get to the end and stop at the end to just enjoy the roughly 4000km it took me to get to this point, not to mention all the stuff that happened before I even left.
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