Replacing the chain | GTAMotorcycle.com

Replacing the chain

Kri$han

Kri$han

Well-known member
Background info:

My bike's a 2004, and I bought it with 6400kms. I bought it in 2009, and I think I rode about 3000kms before I knew how to properly do chain maintenance, and I have a feeling the previous owner didn't do it at all.

The bike now has 24000kms, and the chain is starting to show some pretty bad signs of wear: When I adjust it; I find the tightest spot, and adjust it to the tightest factory specification. The loose area(s) of the chain end up being looser than the factory recommendations, which easily tells me I need a new one, HOWEVER the rear sprocket still looks mint! No obvious signs of wear, and the teeth still all have nice corners and flats on the tops of the 'teeth' as if it were new.

Before I take it to a shop and they tell me that I should replace it all, can I get away with just replacing the chain?
Will it likely wear faster because of a semi-worn rear sprocket?

I've been adjusting the chain very regularly once I learned how to properly do it; 3-4 times a year, at least, which seems like I have to do it too frequently, and now when i ride the power delivery is very inconsistent which is undoubtedly that tight-spot on the chain wreaking havoc.

Thanks in advance
 
Manuals I've seen say replace the sprockets with the chain, but I think practically you can judge for yourself by looking at the wear on the sprockets. At this point though, I would say you should probably change the sprockets. You should have a good amount of wear by now. It's my understanding that it will wear to the old chain which is likely stretched and will pull the new chain in ways it doesn't like. You'll probably get better answers than mine below. though.

If you get all the parts, you can bring it over to change it. I have a chain tool and everything needed.
 
Buy a DID chain...they last a LONG time with regular maintenance...
 
Who cares if the chain is looser than factory specs? I'd rather have a chain a little loose as opposed to too tight. I think most people set the tension too tight anyway which is what causes it to bind. Sounds like your constant adjusting might be contributing to your problem.
 
i have always replaced chain and sprockets as a set. It insurance that they will wear evenly and i only use steel sprockets, last way longer and +1 on d.i.d chains xring!!
 
Scary said:
Who cares if the chain is looser than factory specs? I'd rather have a chain a little loose as opposed to too tight. I think most people set the tension too tight anyway which is what causes it to bind. Sounds like your constant adjusting might be contributing to your problem.
Click to expand...

if its too loose...it will slap around....

gcrouse said:
i have always replaced chain and sprockets as a set. It insurance that they will wear evenly and i only use steel sprockets, last way longer and +1 on d.i.d chains xring!!
Click to expand...

+1 always do chain and sprockets together...
 
At the rear sprocket pull the chain directly back from the center of the sprocket. It should have little to no give at this point. If there is significant play here, I'd replace all three components, chain, front and rear sprockets.

And I'd tighten the chain to the LOOSE specs as opposed to the tight. Unless you're trying to eliminate drive train lash to perform stellar wheelies...

A loose chain puts no strain on the sprocket shaft bearings, whereas a tight chain will stretch and wear prematurely.

Now what kind of load are you carrying? Set the chain tension with the LOAD on the bike. The deflection of the swingarm under load will change the angle of the chain, and on some bikes like dual sports with long suspension travel, it will be a significant distance.

I do the pull test to check for elongation of the chain, and visually inspect the sprockets for deformation. Then I go with a hard chromalloy sprocket and the best DID chain I can afford such as the VM2.

It's a riveted master link as opposed to a clip link.

Don't let people talk you into a 520 conversion unless you're doing it to shed weight for better lap times. The stronger the chain, the longer it will last.

Scary said:
Who cares if the chain is looser than factory specs? I'd rather have a chain a little loose as opposed to too tight. I think most people set the tension too tight anyway which is what causes it to bind. Sounds like your constant adjusting might be contributing to your problem.
Click to expand...
 
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