#$%@ GP Bikes just made my life harder

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PrivatePilot said:
Yeah, dry sump engine. So you have to drain the oil reservoir first which is actually quite easy - nice 15mm bolt in an easy to access spot, but the other 2 bolts are in the sump to drain out a few low spots I guess. They're oddly close together but both seem to dump quite a bit of oil, so it must be a divided cover somehow in there. You also basically can't see them at all, so I use a stubby box end ratchet wrench, get it on the bolt by braile, and once they're broken loose then you have to take the wrench off and thread them out by finger - if you left a box end wrench on and used it to thread them out I think you'd run out of space since the frame is right there.

You also have to put the front wheel up on blocks otherwise you can't even get the drain pan under the bike much less a wrench.

Then there's the refill procedure - 3.8L or something like that goes into the oil tank fill port (which you need to remove the seat to get to), and then around 2L goes into the crankcase fill port.

Hey, at least the oil filter is really easy to get at lol.
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I had a Polaris sled with a dry sump 4T engine. Oil changes were so easy, just syphon out the oil from the box and refill with new oil, pull a oil line and crank over the sled and it'll pump out the rest of the old oil in seconds then just top off the box. It was a 5min procedure.
 
Gary said:
Wrap aluminum foil around the frame before you start.
As for oil on yourself......latex gloves & tight wristbands.......lol.
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I haven't seen his situation but I often find myself using paper or tinfoil to make disposable chutes/deflectors/funnels when manufacturers made life difficult for me.
 
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Gary said:
Wrap aluminum foil around the frame before you start.
As for oil on yourself......latex gloves & tight wristbands.......lol.
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It’s thankfully not in a place where it runs far so I just wipe things up afterwards. And yeah, I wear gloves while doing messy work like this, but going wrist deep looking for a drain plug in the pan while simultaneously releasing a string of curse words is still pretty messy lol

I use puppy pads under the bike when I’m doing oil changes so any errant drips are nabbed. They work great and they’re cheap at the dollar store.
 
I've used foil also, but half the time you pull it off after the job and still end up with oil dripping off the foil onto whatever you were draping it over to protect in the first place when you drag it off. And then on something else while your attention gets diverted asking yourself why you bothered in the first place. Then it cuts you gloves and now oil is on your hands. Comedy of errors.
 
I've found that there's typically four reasons for a stuck bolt.

1) Corrosion- Heat, impacts, penetrating oils work to various degrees and in combination. The shock of an impact gun sometimes does more than leverage. Also you can use all your strength holding the socket onto the bolt, letting the gun do the turning.

2) Cross threading- God help you. It'll fight you all the way out.

3 Too long a bolt- The first thread usually makes the rest easy

4) Over torqued- If the head comes off leaving something to grip, the release of tension usually fixes the problem.

It takes a fair bit of set up time but I have drilled out the core of bolts leaving only the thread. Catch it with a dental tool and it comes out looking like a spring. Get it wrong and you can wreck the internal threads
 
nobbie48 said:
I've found that there's typically four reasons for a stuck bolt.

1) Corrosion- Heat, impacts, penetrating oils work to various degrees and in combination. The shock of an impact gun sometimes does more than leverage. Also you can use all your strength holding the socket onto the bolt, letting the gun do the turning.

2) Cross threading- God help you. It'll fight you all the way out.

3 Too long a bolt- The first thread usually makes the rest easy

4) Over torqued- If the head comes off leaving something to grip, the release of tension usually fixes the problem.

It takes a fair bit of set up time but I have drilled out the core of bolts leaving only the thread. Catch it with a dental tool and it comes out looking like a spring. Get it wrong and you can wreck the internal threads
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You missed galling. Shouldn't be the case here but if you ever end up in that situation, it's a miracle if you can save one part. Often both end up in the garbage.
 
PrivatePilot said:
I'd love to have one, but my current bike has not 1, not 2...but 3 different oil drain points, and Yamaha, in their infinite wisdom, put 2 of the drains at the same level as and facing the frame, meaning you can only put a wrench on them blindly, mostly by feel.
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Just have to ask...

WHAT BIKE IS THIS?!
 
sburns said:
For some reason I've been seeing ads for Induction Heaters, apparently you can buy a tool with a coil that surrounds the bolt head.
🤷‍♂️
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A lesson hard learned from far too many Jeep wrangler torx screws, there are a awful lot of fasteners that a induction heater can not get positioned on to have any effect on at all.
The bolt head needs to be proud AF for the heat transfer to do its job.
 
I've had success using a chisel and hammer before. I put the chisel at a very slight angle towards loosening and tap it with a hammer. It may take a little bit, but slowly it will eventually loosen it.
 
Dirty Frank said:
A lesson hard learned from far too many Jeep wrangler torx screws, there are a awful lot of fasteners that a induction heater can not get positioned on to have any effect on at all.
The bolt head needs to be proud AF for the heat transfer to do its job.
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The induction heater won't work as the plug is aluminum. Drilling is a no as that is a oil plug and you can't get shavings in there without risking destroying the engine. Needs to be brute forced out.

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Scuba Steve said:
The induction heater won't work as the plug is aluminum. Drilling is a no as that is a oil plug and you can't get shavings in there without risking destroying the engine. Needs to be brute forced out.

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You shouldn't have to drill all the way to the end of the bolt.
I'd find out the length of the bolt, depth mark the drills an 1/8-3/16 shy of the length. Drilling carefully starting with an about a 1/8" drill and working up is a tried and true method. It's worked for me on multiple occasions just like @nobbie48 has suggested.
 
Maybe a stick of dynamite will work?

Too much overthinking here. I already told you how to remove it. If you don't want to spend the thirty bucks on the tool, bring the bike over to my place. I'll have that out in less than thirty seconds with no fuss.
 
timtune said:
You shouldn't have to drill all the way to the end of the bolt.
I'd find out the length of the bolt, depth mark the drills an 1/8-3/16 shy of the length. Drilling carefully starting with an about a 1/8" drill and working up is a tried and true method. It's worked for me on multiple occasions just like @nobbie48 has suggested.
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Hollow plug not a bolt

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Scuba Steve said:
Hollow plug not a bolt

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Definitely try using something like @Jayell's method first. But failing that, if it's stuck from overtightening, drilling off the head should release the tension like @nobbie48 said, then you can grab it from the inside with an extractor (if even necessary) to spin it out. When you drill all the way through the head, the hollow potion seems long enough that the swarf won't fall into the engine, and if there's still oil in there, the pressure should push it out. Just go slow and keep clearing as much of it as you can before breaking through.

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Jayell said:
Maybe a stick of dynamite will work?

Too much overthinking here. I already told you how to remove it. If you don't want to spend the thirty bucks on the tool, bring the bike over to my place. I'll have that out in less than thirty seconds with no fuss.
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This @PrivatePilot

J even has beer in the garage! Win!
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