#$%@ GP Bikes just made my life harder

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PrivatePilot said:
I'd love to have one, but my current bike has not 1, not 2...but 3 different oil drain points, and Yamaha, in their infinite wisdom, put 2 of the drains at the same level as and facing the frame, meaning you can only put a wrench on them blindly, mostly by feel. And it should really be a stubby wrench because a full size wrench might not even fit. Then you get oil all over yourself and the frame when the oil starts to flow, and sometimes for good measure, you fumble at least 1 of those 2 drain plugs into the drain pan which is now almost overflowing since this bike holds so much damn oil. So you have to go fishing in there to find it.

Anyhow, yeah, I sure wish I had a single fumoto lol.
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You can order the model with a hose attachment point. No more dripping on the frame!

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Relax said:
That bolt is part of a screen assembly, so you can't just replace it with a valve.

That said, I had a couple of Fumoto's when there were no other options. I didn't like how stiff the lever could get when road grime caked it up, plus having to use the separate locking spring to ensure it didn't accidentally pop open (which wouldn't have been probable, but you can never be too careful). Now I'm using Stahlbus valves and love them - just unscrew the safety cap, and push in the quarter turn spigot. I also have one on my SXV oil tank, where draining it from the stock bolt gets oil all over the rad hose, front header, and into the bash plate.

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Stahlbus seems pretty effective too.
If I had sent that first, years ago, I might have been just as happy.

I bought the fumoto with a retaining clip because you can never be too safe but having operated the valve, I doubt it will ever actuate by accident.

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Shaman said:
Moi ici, red interior and exterior with a 360. I had it about six months when a rod started knocking hard... which, given that I bought the car in 1986 for $500 cash and drove it like a lunatic, seems reasonable
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Shaman said:
Moi ici, red interior and exterior with a 360. I had it about six months when a rod started knocking hard... which, given that I bought the car in 1986 for $500 cash and drove it like a lunatic, seems reasonable.
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My Cordoba met it’s end on a cold Scarberian night in 1984. It tore a fire hydrant out of the ground and slammed into a telephone pole before coming to a stop in a smoking pile of rubble (pictures to follow). The driver was thrown clear, so clear in fact that he was never found. There were no witnesses so the police were never able to identify the driver. Unfortunately I had to retain legal counsel to deal with this unusual situation. I remember as I was explaining it to my lawyer, he asked what kind of car it was. I told him a ‘75 Cordoba, there was a long silent pause, he looked up from taking notes and said “ Did it have Corinthian Leather?”. I said “ Of course it did. Who the hell would buy one without it?”. We both had a good laugh. He could never remember my name and always referred to me as the guy with the Corinthian Leather.
 
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IMHO the bolt extractor socket should work but use it with a impact and push on it hard. If that does not work see if you can get a big drill bit to take off the head with the washer. Even better, maybe a hole saw could cut off the washer, and leave some of the bolt out to have something to grab. That should release the pressure on the threads. At least the head it concave so it should be easy to get it started centered. Worse case scenario if you have to drill it you could pressurize the oil system to prevent the filings from getting in.
 
Bobo said:
My Cordoba met it’s end on a cold Scarberian night in 1984. It tore a fire hydrant out of the ground and slammed into a telephone pole before coming to a stop in a smoking pile of rubble (pictures to follow). The driver was thrown clear, so clear in fact that he was never found. There were no witnesses so the police were never able to identify the driver. Unfortunately I had to retain legal counsel to deal with this unusual situation. I remember as I was explaining it to my lawyer, he asked what kind of car it was. I told him a ‘75 Cordoba, there was a long silent pause, he looked up from taking notes and said “ Did it have Corinthian Leather?”. I said “ Of course it did. Who the hell would buy one without it?”. We both had a good laugh. He could never remember my name and always referred to me as the guy with the Corinthian Leather.
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Does anyone know a good body shop that can buff this out? There’s also a broken stud on the front passenger side wheel that I need to remove, I was thinking of using an EZ Out. The yellow paint on the right front fender is from the fire hydrant. That would also have to get touched up.
image.jpg6F51C66E-90E8-4758-A31B-777DC1C28938.jpeg
 
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^^ only worth fixing if it had the rich Corinthian leather. 😄
 
N234 said:
You can order the model with a hose attachment point. No more dripping on the frame!
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Not even remotely enough space for a fumoto - 2 of the drain plugs are directly adjascent the frame - when they're threaded out there's probably only a handful of mm of space between the bolt head and the frame itself. Even if you could get a fumoto in there somehow, there wouldn't be room to turn the valve after the fact.
 
PrivatePilot said:
^^ only worth fixing if it had the rich Corinthian leather. 😄
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Oh it had the rich Corinthian Leather alright.Despite popular belief, it was not actually from Corinthia , wherever that is. The leather used in the Cordoba was from New Jersey, some marketing guy came up with the whole Corinthian Leather thing. Mine had the aforementioned Corinthian Leather buckets and console. That low compression 360 2 barrel could really get away from you if you weren’t careful as you can see in that photo. I think it was rated at a whopping 175 horsepower.
 
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Bobo said:
Oh it had the rich Corinthian Leather alright.Despite popular belief, it was not actually from Corinthia , wherever that is. The leather used in the Cordoba was from New Jersey, some marketing guy came up with the whole Corinthian Leather thing. Mine had the aforementioned Corinthian Leather buckets and console. That low compression 360 2 barrel could really get away from you if you weren’t careful as you can see in that photo. I think it was rated at a whopping 175 horsepower.
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They were definitely not fast, but the antiquated low-cost Chrysler suspension in those cars means that they'd still spin and slide with the inappropriate foot of a teenager urging them.

I had some plans for my 360 but it had its own.
 
When it comes to cartridge filters, I buy OEM, or a highly regarded aftermarket like K&N. Risk vs reward of the cheap no name stuff in aftermarket is too high.

Wife’s spyder is a cartridge filter. I buy the BRP OEM for it.
 
PrivatePilot said:
When it comes to cartridge filters, I buy OEM, or a highly regarded aftermarket like K&N. Risk vs reward of the cheap no name stuff in aftermarket is too high.

Wife’s spyder is a cartridge filter. I buy the BRP OEM for it.
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If WIX makes a filter for it I buy those as they're always the best in comparisons. If they don't, I get a HiFlo one (also excellent and as good or better than oem). Plus with either you can find them in a case of ~12 for the price of 6 saving tons if you plan to keep the machine that long.
 
Hardwrkr13 said:
If WIX makes a filter for it I buy those as they're always the best in comparisons. If they don't, I get a HiFlo one (also excellent and as good or better than oem). Plus with either you can find them in a case of ~12 for the price of 6 saving tons if you plan to keep the machine that long.
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That's the same flowchart I use as well. Wix > HiFlo > OEM > OE.
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