Anyone have experience with screw / helical piles?
Wife is asking about extending the cottage rearward for more living space and one consideration instead of excavating is that type of floor support.
Anyone use them before? How do you insulate the floor? We don’t need a bigger basement so I’d be ok with just building an addition for some more space while keeping the basement as is.
Done properly, they can work well. Proper screw piles measure torque during install. There is a known relationship between torque and bearing capacity. Talk to the structural engineer that has to sign off and local building department to see how they feel. Ultimately, what they accept matters more than what works.
Anyone have experience with screw / helical piles?
Wife is asking about extending the cottage rearward for more living space and one consideration instead of excavating is that type of floor support.
Anyone use them before? How do you insulate the floor? We don’t need a bigger basement so I’d be ok with just building an addition for some more space while keeping the basement as is.
They’re not DIY. I’ve used them a couple of times, the diy ones are unstable , the machine torqued piles are great… except for cost, about $1000 a piece.
Just use concrete filled sono tubes, inexpensive, easy DIY.
Anyone have experience with screw / helical piles?
Wife is asking about extending the cottage rearward for more living space and one consideration instead of excavating is that type of floor support.
Anyone use them before? How do you insulate the floor? We don’t need a bigger basement so I’d be ok with just building an addition for some more space while keeping the basement as is.
That has an elevation problem. Not insurmountable but it would need some work. Ground floor that he would like to extend is 2-3' above grade IIRC. He could make a back split using what is an existing exterior side door to access stairs. Enclose the deck area and have a few stairs down to the addition and stairs up if he wants to be baller and double the square footage.
That has an elevation problem. Not insurmountable but it would need some work. Ground floor that he would like to extend is 2-3' above grade IIRC. He could make a back split using what is an existing exterior side door to access stairs. Enclose the deck area and have a few stairs down to the addition and stairs up if he wants to be baller and double the square footage.
Lifting a small building may sound daunting, but it’s not all that difficult if your existing foundation is block.
My guess is you have a central beam on steel posts, with 24-30’ outers wall bearing the joists. A couple of 20 ton bottle jacks and handful of screw jacks would be about $500, another $2k for framing, insulation and siding and a dozen blocks.
Knock out every 4th block then raise the place 1/4” at a time (1/2” if there’s no drywall inside). 2 guys can get about 1” of lift/hr.
Lifting a small building may sound daunting, but it’s not all that difficult if your existing foundation is block.
My guess is you have a central beam on steel posts, with 24-30’ outers wall bearing the joists. A couple of 20 ton bottle jacks and handful of screw jacks would be about $500, another $2k for framing, insulation and siding and a dozen blocks.
Knock out every 4th block then raise the place 1/4” at a time (1/2” if there’s no drywall inside). 2 guys can get about 1” of lift/hr.
I am thinking way too hard about whether to install the island back and side panels first and butt the flooring against them, or run the flooring up to the cabinet base and only underneath the panels.
If the flooring goes under the panels, I would probably aim to leave about a 1/8 inch gap, but nothing is ever perfect. The base is visible as you come up the stairs, so I want it to look clean. I could caulk the seam.
Butting the flooring against the panels would be easier for the flow of the project and avoids worrying about the gap or the panels settling and putting pressure on the floor later.
Oh yeah, cool tip. We bought a budget range hood with high CFM and knew the tradeoff would be noise. Turned it on and, yep, it was pretty loud. We figured whatever, so be it.
I had some butyl rubber sheets lying around and wrapped the hood with them. Turned it back on and honestly thought I had broken a wire or something. It was running, but barely audible. I checked a few times to make sure it was not on low.
Nope. On high it is quieter than it used to be on low.
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