Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

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Anyone have experience with the above ground / on-ground pools?

This is for next year (or 2028) but I like to plan ahead.

We're installing our 14ft above ground pool, got a soft mesh fence stupidly cheap ($200) to surround the pool, and will be leveling it out in the coming weeks.

But if the kids take to it, I'm not prepared to spend 50-100k on a pool that they may or may not use. The above/on ground are always on sale on FBMP but I'm not sure if when they are disassembled...will they ever re-assemble again properly?

Lots of people giving them away for free...but do these come together again or am I just taking scrap metal to deal with?

These would only need a 2-3ft depth dug out, which isn't too big of a deal with a mini ex.
 
mimico_polak said:
Anyone have experience with the above ground / on-ground pools?

This is for next year (or 2028) but I like to plan ahead.

We're installing our 14ft above ground pool, got a soft mesh fence stupidly cheap ($200) to surround the pool, and will be leveling it out in the coming weeks.

But if the kids take to it, I'm not prepared to spend 50-100k on a pool that they may or may not use. The above/on ground are always on sale on FBMP but I'm not sure if when they are disassembled...will they ever re-assemble again properly?

Lots of people giving them away for free...but do these come together again or am I just taking scrap metal to deal with?

These would only need a 2-3ft depth dug out, which isn't too big of a deal with a mini ex.
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Don't just buy a new one from pool supplies Canada. A old one will just cause headaches are you planning a deep end. Our is on ground with a shotcrete base and has been good. Without the concrete it is a major pain to do the liner etc.

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Scuba Steve said:
Don't just buy a new one from pool supplies Canada. A old one will just cause headaches are you planning a deep end. Our is on ground with a shotcrete base and has been good. Without the concrete it is a major pain to do the liner etc.

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Thanks. That’s what I’m learning as well. Buying used is an exercise in frustration and the only price acceptable is free.
 
Scuba Steve said:
It's not even free as you need to get it apart and that's a lot of labor.

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I sold my above ground when my kids no longer had any use for it. Asked $1500 if I had to take it down, $500 if buyer took it down themselves. Guy showed up at 7AM, paid the $500 and proceeded to start taking it down. I went to work and when I came home at 5PM he was just finishing up. Asked him how it went, he replied 'should have paid the $1500'
 
the used pool will always need a new liner , they do not come out well , and the coss brace steel plates under the walls will be rotten if more than 10yr old . I dismantled mine with two helpers and it took 3 hrs and we knew what to do , one stripped screw head and you loose 15 mins . I would never buy someone elses problem , even if free , many above grounds have crappy value priced filters .
 
Time for a facelift for the homestead. I’ve been playing with ChatGPT to do a few renderings- I can’t believe how easy it is.

Not so good for the gal that usually does my renderings!
 
klr_guy said:
Duelling open houses this weekend. Walked by today, funny the little things that stand out. One treated their asphalt driveway recently, one clearly hasn't in years. Both had miscellaneous crap that could have been tidied at the sides of the house.
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The front of one is a very unusual design. I suspect that may scare away some ppotential buyers.
 
Hey everyone, I am back for the solid advice this place always had. The internet is dead these days, and this forum really knows it's stuff

I am redoing the flooring throughout the house and the kitchen. The kitchen is IKEA SEKTION based, and the flooring is Fuzion Laminate Nautiq Pro, 9 1/4 inch by 60 inch click flooring. Has anyone used this flooring?

Main question is the island. It will be about 9 feet long with a sink, dishwasher, and heavy countertop. General advice is not to install cabinets or islands on top of the flooring, but I see plenty of kitchens done that way. Because IKEA cabinets sit on legs, I am worried the weight could make the flooring bow, lift, or make noise. IKEA has a SEKTION floor anchoring frame, but it still only rests on a few brackets. I am thinking of building a 2x6 box frame to support the island more evenly. So should the flooring go under the island, or stop at the island footprint? If I stop it behind the kickboard, I am worried spills could run under the exposed flooring edge. Now that I have spent five hours writing and rewriting the above, I am starting to think the best approach is to lay the flooring first. Then I can build my box frame with adjustable legs at every joist and use a hole saw to cut out the flooring at each leg location. My box frame would support the bulk of the weight, while the outside IKEA legs would sit on the flooring mainly to hold the kickboards.
These are the legs I am thinking to use 1778142308916.png

Any real world experience with this setup?
 
daught said:
Hey everyone, I am back for the solid advice this place always had. The internet is dead these days, and this forum really knows it's stuff

I am redoing the flooring throughout the house and the kitchen. The kitchen is IKEA SEKTION based, and the flooring is Fuzion Laminate Nautiq Pro, 9 1/4 inch by 60 inch click flooring. Has anyone used this flooring?

Main question is the island. It will be about 9 feet long with a sink, dishwasher, and heavy countertop. General advice is not to install cabinets or islands on top of the flooring, but I see plenty of kitchens done that way. Because IKEA cabinets sit on legs, I am worried the weight could make the flooring bow, lift, or make noise. IKEA has a SEKTION floor anchoring frame, but it still only rests on a few brackets. I am thinking of building a 2x6 box frame to support the island more evenly. So should the flooring go under the island, or stop at the island footprint? If I stop it behind the kickboard, I am worried spills could run under the exposed flooring edge. Now that I have spent five hours writing and rewriting the above, I am starting to think the best approach is to lay the flooring first. Then I can build my box frame with adjustable legs at every joist and use a hole saw to cut out the flooring at each leg location. My box frame would support the bulk of the weight, while the outside IKEA legs would sit on the flooring mainly to hold the kickboards.
These are the legs I am thinking to use View attachment 78641

Any real world experience with this setup?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't hesitate installing the floor over the whole floor. Standard practice. We refuse to use any "leg" to support cabinets. We build full kicks and scribe them to the floor. I would suggest anything you can do to distribute the weight over the islands footprint would be the best way to go.
 
daught said:
Hey everyone, I am back for the solid advice this place always had. The internet is dead these days, and this forum really knows it's stuff

I am redoing the flooring throughout the house and the kitchen. The kitchen is IKEA SEKTION based, and the flooring is Fuzion Laminate Nautiq Pro, 9 1/4 inch by 60 inch click flooring. Has anyone used this flooring?

Main question is the island. It will be about 9 feet long with a sink, dishwasher, and heavy countertop. General advice is not to install cabinets or islands on top of the flooring, but I see plenty of kitchens done that way. Because IKEA cabinets sit on legs, I am worried the weight could make the flooring bow, lift, or make noise. IKEA has a SEKTION floor anchoring frame, but it still only rests on a few brackets. I am thinking of building a 2x6 box frame to support the island more evenly. So should the flooring go under the island, or stop at the island footprint? If I stop it behind the kickboard, I am worried spills could run under the exposed flooring edge. Now that I have spent five hours writing and rewriting the above, I am starting to think the best approach is to lay the flooring first. Then I can build my box frame with adjustable legs at every joist and use a hole saw to cut out the flooring at each leg location. My box frame would support the bulk of the weight, while the outside IKEA legs would sit on the flooring mainly to hold the kickboards.
These are the legs I am thinking to use View attachment 78641

Any real world experience with this setup?
Click to expand...
I don't like tons of weight on a floating floor. My parents previous kitchen floor was lvp and would pop apart in front of the fridge.

I assume the island has a known and fixed location. I'd probably build a support box ~8" inside the cabinets and install flooring around that box with an expansion gap. Most spills wouldn't get that far under.
 
daught said:
Hey everyone, I am back for the solid advice this place always had. The internet is dead these days, and this forum really knows it's stuff

I am redoing the flooring throughout the house and the kitchen. The kitchen is IKEA SEKTION based, and the flooring is Fuzion Laminate Nautiq Pro, 9 1/4 inch by 60 inch click flooring. Has anyone used this flooring?

Main question is the island. It will be about 9 feet long with a sink, dishwasher, and heavy countertop. General advice is not to install cabinets or islands on top of the flooring, but I see plenty of kitchens done that way. Because IKEA cabinets sit on legs, I am worried the weight could make the flooring bow, lift, or make noise. IKEA has a SEKTION floor anchoring frame, but it still only rests on a few brackets. I am thinking of building a 2x6 box frame to support the island more evenly. So should the flooring go under the island, or stop at the island footprint? If I stop it behind the kickboard, I am worried spills could run under the exposed flooring edge. Now that I have spent five hours writing and rewriting the above, I am starting to think the best approach is to lay the flooring first. Then I can build my box frame with adjustable legs at every joist and use a hole saw to cut out the flooring at each leg location. My box frame would support the bulk of the weight, while the outside IKEA legs would sit on the flooring mainly to hold the kickboards.
These are the legs I am thinking to use View attachment 78641

Any real world experience with this setup?
Click to expand...
I'd have no concerns placing the island on the flooring directly. Not sure I'd bother with the legs as I'd build something to spread the weight better than just those foot pads though.
 
I would floor the whole room and as @daught mentioned build a frame to support the boxes , not use the ikea legs . My island is an IKEA on a LVL lumber frame . It may not be available in your area , the OSB style boards do not warp or twist. I stacked them flat to spread all loads not on edge , staggered the end joints log cabin style .


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Just data points... items for thought.

-Laminate flooring needs to expand and contract. How much of a problem this will be will depend on the distance and are the cabinets holding it in place at both ends. Longer the distance, the bigger the problem.
-If you go under, I agree with others to build a box and not use the legs which create point loads.
-Thinking outside the "box" holes can be cut around the legs in the laminate so they sit on the sub floor, bigger holes so they have expansion and contraction margins and you don't need to be deadnuts accurate for hole placement.
-Cost, flooring under cabinets still costs money but it is not seen.
-Replacement, if for whatever reason (you hate it, it fails, fickle, etc.) the floor needs to be replaced it requires removing the cabinets if under the cabinets.
-Under is likely an easier install as less fussy cuts.
-If not under, the kicks can be caulked to the floor to mitigate minor spills. BUT I would do this either way, lets say you spill some kind of milk and tuna juice concoction and it goes under the cabinets... either way that is a problem ain't nobody got time for.
-If using the legs you can have the kicks removable (helps with the above, now you can clean under the cabinets) but it can also be used as a place to hide valuables (under the cabinets, behind the removable kicks), very few thief's will look there during a B&E.

IMO there is no pure right or wrong just risks, effort, tricks, etc. Not black and white.
 
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daught said:
Hey everyone, I am back for the solid advice this place always had. The internet is dead these days, and this forum really knows it's stuff

I am redoing the flooring throughout the house and the kitchen. The kitchen is IKEA SEKTION based, and the flooring is Fuzion Laminate Nautiq Pro, 9 1/4 inch by 60 inch click flooring. Has anyone used this flooring?

Main question is the island. It will be about 9 feet long with a sink, dishwasher, and heavy countertop. General advice is not to install cabinets or islands on top of the flooring, but I see plenty of kitchens done that way. Because IKEA cabinets sit on legs, I am worried the weight could make the flooring bow, lift, or make noise. IKEA has a SEKTION floor anchoring frame, but it still only rests on a few brackets. I am thinking of building a 2x6 box frame to support the island more evenly. So should the flooring go under the island, or stop at the island footprint? If I stop it behind the kickboard, I am worried spills could run under the exposed flooring edge. Now that I have spent five hours writing and rewriting the above, I am starting to think the best approach is to lay the flooring first. Then I can build my box frame with adjustable legs at every joist and use a hole saw to cut out the flooring at each leg location. My box frame would support the bulk of the weight, while the outside IKEA legs would sit on the flooring mainly to hold the kickboards.
These are the legs I am thinking to use View attachment 78641

Any real world experience with this setup?
Click to expand...
I install over the whole floor except for 12” along the back of base cabinets. For block, it’s best to do under islands as it creates a monolithic floor that is more resistant to developing gaps.

I’m not a kitchen expert, but we do a lot of ikea kitchens, plastic feet used on base cabinets have never been a problem.

For islands we rip scrap ply or flooring into 6”x4”pieces, stack and glue them up into 4” pads. I place them where the plastic feet go then trim to level (great for older uneven floors). We screw them to the floor then glue them (PL) to the base cabinets. You can pin kick boards to the pads.

Islands are normally fastened to the floor, so the plastic feet and adjusters are useless. To level the island, trim your pads or box frame to level.
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