Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Grrr. Next round of problem tenant eviction. Heard a raccoon rumble in the backyard last night and they have torn soffit off the shed and at least a mom and two kits climbed in to sleep. Mother @@%#%^÷&. I threw a radio in the shed playing blue Jay's commentary to try to move them along. Hopefully they leave voluntarily. Bastards.
Got my own squatters ro deal with - found them today while relaxing in my outdoor bar. Bugger is in tbhe rafters, tore away some of the soffit to get in.

Out to bait the trap now. Hopefully, I'll have some raw materials for a hat by morning.
 
You can also do a hot roof (roof without ventilation by just filing the gap with regular fiberglass or rockwool. The air won't circulate enough to have condensation. much cheaper.

If using spray foam, you don't need a vapour barrier, the foam is he barrier.

The right solution is ventilating your roof. For a flat roof that is framed and insulated below, there should be an eave on at least 2 opposing ends, or a connection to another roof space on one end. Adding strip vents will ventilate that space.

If you're having condensation problems from AC in the summer, the problem will be way worse in the winter as the cooler outside air condenses moisture leaving your house onto your roof rafters, decking, and the topside of your insulation. Dark damp attic spaces where humidity stays at 55% or more don't insulate well, get moldy, and rot framing fairly quickly.
A lady I know agreed to an $8K shingle re-roof. When one of the workers stepped onto the roof his foot went through. Not only is the sheathing shot the rafters need to be replaced. 5X price. The previous job was done in some odd way that fed the rot.
 
You can also do a hot roof (roof without ventilation by just filing the gap with regular fiberglass or rockwool. The air won't circulate enough to have condensation. much cheaper.

If using spray foam, you don't need a vapour barrier, the foam is he barrier.

The right solution is ventilating your roof. For a flat roof that is framed and insulated below, there should be an eave on at least 2 opposing ends, or a connection to another roof space on one end. Adding strip vents will ventilate that space.

If you're having condensation problems from AC in the summer, the problem will be way worse in the winter as the cooler outside air condenses moisture leaving your house onto your roof rafters, decking, and the topside of your insulation. Dark damp attic spaces where humidity stays at 55% or more don't insulate well, get moldy, and rot framing fairly quickly.

Guy came round this morning to quote for a ceiling demo, 5” spray foam and drywall the ceiling back. Said the spray foam would isolate the roof and give a decent thermal break. Added bonus, cooler room in the summer, warmer in the winter and a small ice dam that sometimes shows up should also be cured.

Just have to wait and see if I need to sell body parts for this.
 
A lady I know agreed to an $8K shingle re-roof. When one of the workers stepped onto the roof his foot went through. Not only is the sheathing shot the rafters need to be replaced. 5X price. The previous job was done in some odd way that fed the rot.

Crossing fingers that when the ceiling comes down the only issues are minor. Last time this ceiling came down the wood was fine but there was a gigantic old bees nest in the ceiling cavity. Since the roof was way way worse with leaks last time I'm reasonably confident that this time should be ok. The actual roof is watertight since the last replacement, there are no stains/leaks at all when it rains, just this condensation issue.
 
What’s the consensus on driveway sealing?

Guys came by last week and offered me a price that’s almost half of what my neighbour paid ($350 to me) including crack ‘sealing’.

Also said they can patch a small depression for an extra $100-$150.

Eventually I’ll need to do the driveway, but is this a decent stop gap?

Neighbour paid $650 and I wasn’t impressed. But he has an arch driveway and needed them to trim all the grass around. Mine is a solid 8-9 car driveway that’s effectively a proper rectangle.
 


Just have to wait and see if I need to sell body parts for this.
Brace yourself.

Demolition and disposal will be between 500 and $1000 for an average size ceiling.

Closed cell foam, 6” for R40, should be around $10/sq’.

Drywall for a small job will be the greater of $3.50/sq’ with a minimum of $1000.

Add another $500 for paint.

I’ll bet your quote comes in about 20% above that to cover the general contractor.

My guess is a 12x12 room should be around $5k.
 
What’s the consensus on driveway sealing?

Guys came by last week and offered me a price that’s almost half of what my neighbour paid ($350 to me) including crack ‘sealing’.

Also said they can patch a small depression for an extra $100-$150.

Eventually I’ll need to do the driveway, but is this a decent stop gap?

Neighbour paid $650 and I wasn’t impressed. But he has an arch driveway and needed them to trim all the grass around. Mine is a solid 8-9 car driveway that’s effectively a proper rectangle.
Pay after the work is done. This is a notoriously scammy line of business.
 
Guy came round this morning to quote for a ceiling demo, 5” spray foam and drywall the ceiling back. Said the spray foam would isolate the roof and give a decent thermal break. Added bonus, cooler room in the summer, warmer in the winter and a small ice dam that sometimes shows up should also be cured.

Just have to wait and see if I need to sell body parts for this.
Code for a roof is R40. That means you need would be 40/6.5” or 6” of foam.
 
What’s the consensus on driveway sealing?

Guys came by last week and offered me a price that’s almost half of what my neighbour paid ($350 to me) including crack ‘sealing’.

Also said they can patch a small depression for an extra $100-$150.

Eventually I’ll need to do the driveway, but is this a decent stop gap?

Neighbour paid $650 and I wasn’t impressed. But he has an arch driveway and needed them to trim all the grass around. Mine is a solid 8-9 car driveway that’s effectively a proper rectangle.

Do they do it properly or just spray crap over it and “paint” it black”?

We had one done once and in the winter the surface was slick as anything and the wife slipped over. The proper guys will make sure it's done right. A decent crew told us they mixed some sand in to make sure there's grip.
 
What’s the consensus on driveway sealing?

Guys came by last week and offered me a price that’s almost half of what my neighbour paid ($350 to me) including crack ‘sealing’.

Also said they can patch a small depression for an extra $100-$150.

Eventually I’ll need to do the driveway, but is this a decent stop gap?

Neighbour paid $650 and I wasn’t impressed. But he has an arch driveway and needed them to trim all the grass around. Mine is a solid 8-9 car driveway that’s effectively a proper rectangle.
I consider it paint. It changes the appearance but not the lifespan. Fixing the crack could buy you a little time. What road ever gets sealed? How long do they last?
 
Pay after the work is done. This is a notoriously scammy line of business.
100% would never pay up front.
Do they do it properly or just spray crap over it and “paint” it black”?

We had one done once and in the winter the surface was slick as anything and the wife slipped over. The proper guys will make sure it's done right. A decent crew told us they mixed some sand in to make sure there's grip.
I think they just patch up some cracks (not all at the neighbour's) and then spray it on and roll it.
I consider it paint. It changes the appearance but not the lifespan. Fixing the crack could buy you a little time. What road ever gets sealed? How long do they last?
Makes sense.

The other option is for me to just do it myself for about $200 in material with 4-5 pails of sealant and some crack repair.

I'll have to go back a ton of pages to find the depression filler that some here have recommended...

For $350 I was tempted, for $650...zero chance.
 
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