Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house? | Page 83 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Enough of COVID...what are you doing to the house?

Last time I did it you had to drop it at the depot I believe they were open for approximately 8 minutes during the week. I changed to electric due to the cost between the the units 800 buys a lot of electricity.

Sent using a thumb maybe 2
They changed that. You don't seem to be allowed to do that anymore. Legalized extortion that survives ownership changes. Enercare stock may be a good performer but I won't own them as they are scum.
 
Does he want to do a job near barrie? No rush. Existing works but is probably low on charge as it can run from dawn to dusk without cycling. 15 years old so paying a lot to get it refilled doesnt seem cost-effective.
He's a dealer, 600km north of Barrie. They distribute plumbing, HVAC equipment and supplies to service companies, they don't do the installation. I know a couple of Newmarket HVAC guys that do side jobs, I'll see if they ever venture as far Barrie.
 
Don't feel like starting a new thread...but looking for advice / suggestions / help on a bicycle issue...yes yes not a house.

So basically I bought my wife a bike last year and with C19 the stock was garbage...but we needed a bike.

Anyway, she's got one of the CT bikes that were probably put together badly and it's a 7 speed (only on the rear wheel). The issue I'm finding is that the gear doesn't keep, and as I try to pedal the thing jumps from gear to gear on it's own.

Is there any way to fix this? She likes the frame, and the bike style suits her well, it's just this stupid gearing that's frustrating as hell. I tried the bike today and when it's in the middle gears (3 or 4) it seems fine. But any higher or lower, and the thing is fishing like a crazy person b/w gears as it decides what it wants to do.

If it helps, the gear selector is those that you rotate around the handlebar (makes sense?).
Try to adjust the cable tension on the rear derailleur, it may just need fine tuning. If that does not work fire this over to the cyclist thread...

It may also be a bent derailleur hanger, this will require a little more effort to fix.
 
Don't feel like starting a new thread...but looking for advice / suggestions / help on a bicycle issue...yes yes not a house.

So basically I bought my wife a bike last year and with C19 the stock was garbage...but we needed a bike.

Anyway, she's got one of the CT bikes that were probably put together badly and it's a 7 speed (only on the rear wheel). The issue I'm finding is that the gear doesn't keep, and as I try to pedal the thing jumps from gear to gear on it's own.

Is there any way to fix this? She likes the frame, and the bike style suits her well, it's just this stupid gearing that's frustrating as hell. I tried the bike today and when it's in the middle gears (3 or 4) it seems fine. But any higher or lower, and the thing is fishing like a crazy person b/w gears as it decides what it wants to do.

If it helps, the gear selector is those that you rotate around the handlebar (makes sense?).
 
Heat pump hot water is good for many people if you have the space to put it. Much cheaper to run than straight electric.
I put an air to air heat pump style hot water heater in my new house. I'd probably have gone with gas if that had been an option. One of the problems I had with it was if you used hot water for a shower in the morning, quite a common thing to do, the tank was heating after the cheap time of use pricing ended. So, less energy to heat the water, but could potentially cost the same as a regular tank getting the tank up to heat before the price went up. I never did the math, but you don't save as much as you'd think. I believe some of the newer ones can be programmed to avoid this issue, if you can wait until the evening for lots of hot water again.

Secondly, the principle is good in the summer as it pulls heat from the basement, where it was installed, to heat the water. In theory this should reduce the air con use. win-win. The problem is in the winter you are drawing heated air from the basement to heat your water. Since I spend a lot more time heating than I do cooling (only use the air con a few times a year in the worst heat/humidity) your efficiency for the house is not what you'd think.

I can't remember the brand, but there was an issue in a few years. A part corroded and the unit threw a code. As it turned out, there was also a burnt out backup element which I could have repaired myself, but the code made me call the repair guys. I wasn't present, but they quickly determined the burnt out element and replaced that, then determined that the other problem meant I'd need to spend almost as much as buying a new unit. I was already a few hundred dollars into the repair on a unit that was supposed to be saving me money. There was a secret warranty on the part, but labour was several hours, so I said forget it. I ran it on the backup elements as a regular heater and when it corroded out (I have really aggressive water) I went to Lowes and got a regular tank. Lesson learned.

Also, it's noisy as it has fans to pull the air through the heat exchangers.
 
I put an air to air heat pump style hot water heater in my new house. I'd probably have gone with gas if that had been an option. One of the problems I had with it was if you used hot water for a shower in the morning, quite a common thing to do, the tank was heating after the cheap time of use pricing ended. So, less energy to heat the water, but could potentially cost the same as a regular tank getting the tank up to heat before the price went up. I never did the math, but you don't save as much as you'd think. I believe some of the newer ones can be programmed to avoid this issue, if you can wait until the evening for lots of hot water again.

Secondly, the principle is good in the summer as it pulls heat from the basement, where it was installed, to heat the water. In theory this should reduce the air con use. win-win. The problem is in the winter you are drawing heated air from the basement to heat your water. Since I spend a lot more time heating than I do cooling (only use the air con a few times a year in the worst heat/humidity) your efficiency for the house is not what you'd think.

I can't remember the brand, but there was an issue in a few years. A part corroded and the unit threw a code. As it turned out, there was also a burnt out backup element which I could have repaired myself, but the code made me call the repair guys. I wasn't present, but they quickly determined the burnt out element and replaced that, then determined that the other problem meant I'd need to spend almost as much as buying a new unit. I was already a few hundred dollars into the repair on a unit that was supposed to be saving me money. There was a secret warranty on the part, but labour was several hours, so I said forget it. I ran it on the backup elements as a regular heater and when it corroded out (I have really aggressive water) I went to Lowes and got a regular tank. Lesson learned.

Also, it's noisy as it has fans to pull the air through the heat exchangers.
I agree, you need to look at the whole system not just individual parts. Yes, you probably need to burn more gas in the furnace to heat the air to heat the water. Each step has an efficiency hit. Should still be a lot cheaper operating costs for most people than straight electric hot water. Up front cost and height are issues though.

I don't like on-demand. For many reasons I think it is a stupid system (especially in residential) and I suspect has the highest TCO of any option (expensive units that are tempermental so you don't get enough years out of them to amortize the cost vs potential energy savings). Currently have an 85G rental tank that is full of sediment but I have to pay basically the price of a new tank to buy my 10 year old tank and throw it out. F*(&^ers. On the plus side, if it was a heat pump tank that big, time shifting to cheap power would be no problem as I don't need that much water (one stupid huge tub in house that never gets used drives tank size). I haven't decided what I want to put in next after tank dies and I can get out of this bleeping rental.
 
I agree, you need to look at the whole system not just individual parts. Yes, you probably need to burn more gas in the furnace to heat the air to heat the water. Each step has an efficiency hit. Should still be a lot cheaper operating costs for most people than straight electric hot water. Up front cost and height are issues though.

I don't like on-demand. For many reasons I think it is a stupid system (especially in residential) and I suspect has the highest TCO of any option (expensive units that are tempermental so you don't get enough years out of them to amortize the cost vs potential energy savings). Currently have an 85G rental tank that is full of sediment but I have to pay basically the price of a new tank to buy my 10 year old tank and throw it out. F*(&^ers. On the plus side, if it was a heat pump tank that big, time shifting to cheap power would be no problem as I don't need that much water (one stupid huge tub in house that never gets used drives tank size). I haven't decided what I want to put in next after tank dies and I can get out of this bleeping rental.
Yes. If you can not use it during high price time, you might save some money, but only if it works flawlessly and doesn't cost you anything in maintenance, due largely in part to the extra initial cost. You can buy a lot of electricity for the delta there. We considered on-demand, but it would have been either electric or propane. We would have needed to run some big wiring to the unit(s) for electric, and probably put in a tempering tank to get useable throughput. Most of those units don't add too many degrees per minute per cu ft. Propane would have required some extra venting etc. which I hadn't accounted for in the concrete, so electric was easiest.
 
Anyone been into a Home Depot now they are open again? Just wondering if it is a $hit show or just wait a bit. I've some returns I need to deal with, but it can wait.
 
Anyone been into a Home Depot now they are open again? Just wondering if it is a $hit show or just wait a bit. I've some returns I need to deal with, but it can wait.
I haven't been to a store in weeks. I was talking to people that tried to go to stores last friday. Planned on going to twice as many stores as they made it to due to waiting in lines. Some stores were crazytown (old navy was around the building apparently).
 
Quick hijack, anyone know a good natural gas plumber in Scarborough area? Looking to do a very short (2ft maybe) run from basement to outside for a bbq hookup


Sent from my iPhone using GTAMotorcycle.com
 
I haven't been to a store in weeks. I was talking to people that tried to go to stores last friday. Planned on going to twice as many stores as they made it to due to waiting in lines. Some stores were crazytown (old navy was around the building apparently).
My wife said that Old Navy, Winners, Home Sense and those type of stores reminded her of lineups in communist Poland. Around the back of the stores most places. She saw some women pulling full racks of clothing at Walmart once they released access to the non essential stuff. Ridiculous.

I just want my ******* pool. **** scalpers/resellers. $300 in store and $500+ on Kijiji.
 
I went last night, maybe 5 minutes in line to go in and shop, checkout was fast. The return's line was much longer and slower.
I picked up some stuff at Princess Auto early this afternoon with about eight people in line in front of me. Leaving, the lineup had quadrupled.
 
Last time I did it you had to drop it at the depot I believe they were open for approximately 8 minutes during the week. I changed to electric due to the cost between the the units 800 buys a lot of electricity.

Sent using a thumb maybe 2
IIRC the rental is $35 a month. That pays for the new tank in less than 2 years. Then it subsidizes the tank.
 
IIRC the rental is $35 a month. That pays for the new tank in less than 2 years. Then it subsidizes the tank.
I paid 185 for a new electric tank on sale at the time a gas one was over a g plus the gas and venting that would have needed done. I did the wiring myself and it was in the same room as the panel.

Sent using a thumb maybe 2
 
Some patience, good karma, and a bit of luck…

View attachment 49514
Just make sure you follow all the bylaws. Guy I worked with bought one of the CT "inflatable" side ones years back. Set it all up and he and his family loved it, then bylaw came by (my guess someone complained) and to keep it---it was north of 15K in fence upgrades, etc. (although I am sure he could have half-assed a cheaper solution). Sorry kids, pool is done.

For TO the rules kick in for anything deeper than 2 feet without a lockable cover (hot tub....).
 
Just make sure you follow all the bylaws. Guy I worked with bought one of the CT "inflatable" side ones years back. Set it all up and he and his family loved it, then bylaw came by (my guess someone complained) and to keep it---it was north of 15K in fence upgrades, etc. (although I am sure he could have half-assed a cheaper solution). Sorry kids, pool is done.

For TO the rules kick in for anything deeper than 2 feet without a lockable cover (hot tub....).
Hmmm didn’t know that applied to above ground pools. There’s a bunch in our neighbourhood so I can see if the nosy neighbour complained to anyone.

thanks for the notice. I’ll keep it packed until I’m good.

EDIT: Holy crap….never realized these rules were also for the temporary / inflatable pools! Thought it was only for in ground. I’ll hazard a guess that 99% of people don’t declare anything. My buddy bought a 16ftx48” above ground. Nice pool but it’s basically open to all the neighbours cause their fence is so low, and the residential building next door with a large pool as well.
 
Last edited:
Hmmm didn’t know that applied to above ground pools. There’s a bunch in our neighbourhood so I can see if the nosy neighbour complained to anyone.

thanks for the notice. I’ll keep it packed until I’m good.

EDIT: Holy crap….never realized these rules were also for the temporary / inflatable pools! Thought it was only for in ground. I’ll hazard a guess that 99% of people don’t declare anything. My buddy bought a 16ftx48” above ground. Nice pool but it’s basically open to all the neighbours cause their fence is so low, and the residential building next door with a large pool as well.
I am no pool expert but I think the classic permanent above ground pools that are higher may get around some of the fence rules if the sides of the pool are high enough to prevent easy climbing and deck/platform has a tall enough lockable gate and railing. Maybe the taller sides and the secured deck provide all the required restricting access requirements to prevent fishing out drowned drunk fence hoping teenagers or whatever they are trying to prevent....

For the lower sided inflatable/temp pools it will come down to someone complaining, specially if it is out of general site from the street. Pretty much like any artistic license interpretation of the local bylaws..... can't see it, no one complains=no enforcement.
 

Back
Top Bottom